Installing Strain Relief. Your method please!

[RockinRocket]

This is always the hardest part for me on any build. Getting that strain relief in the 1/2 hole for 18awg hardwired cord.

What is you method folks? Do you just give up and drill out the hole bigger? I'm trying to get it in a Valvestorm Metro chassis and its driving me nuts!

[Stevem]

There is a tool just for doing that , but if you or a buddy can weld you can make such out of a big needle nose !

I suffered for years until a happened across one at a old time tv repair guy yard sale , but I guess the company's that make the grommets can hook you up with the tool !

[JazzGuitarGimp]

Before I bought the proper tool, I would use an 8" pair of slip joint pliers, set to the large jaw setting. You'll need to bend the cable off to the side a bit so you can get a straight shot onto the strain relief with the pliers. Squeeze tight, and rock the strain relief into position. It takes a bit of practice, but it can be done.

[TUBEDUDE]

There is also a strain relief that the cable slips thru, then it tightens as you thread a large plastic nut on the i3nside. The body 8s about 5 inches long, 4 of which stick out the back as a long coil around the pwr cable. It works well, but if used on a Fender style chassis, it has to be forced aside to screw.down the rear panel. I think they are made by Rotanium. I'll post a pic when I get back from Charlotte.

[RockinRocket]

I cant believe I have forgotten of those as I have seen those lots of times. I will try those the next time. Probably couldn't be any easier.

[xtian]

The proper tool costs about $6 on eBay.

[TUBEDUDE]

Here is a shot of the strain relief. In a fresh build, the.best option appears to be entering the chassis from the bottom. That way the extended coil will just face down.

[Leo_Gnardo]

The typical Heyco strain relief/ clamps have a hard time fitting a round hole. First, file the hole into a squarer shape. Doesn't have to be an exact square, hardly, just closer to what you've seen punched in so many chassis.

Slip-joint pliers aka "water pump" pliers do the rest. You may have to pull on the cut end of the cable a bit while squeezing the pliers to help persuade your strain relief into its hole.

Yes I know the "proper" tool is now available on Ebay for a couple bucks. Used to be a $100+ item thru Mouser & other parts houses. But I have 2 sizes of water pump pliers & so dam' many other tools, I'm not anxious to add to the collection. Besides, the water-pump pliers are so handy for many other uses.

[sluckey]

Here's another option that I've used on some projects. Cheap, easy and looks good but a bit industrial. Bigger than the Heyco though. Comes in several different sizes and even a 90° version.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-NPT-Strain- ... xyUrZS5XXh

[dorrisant]

I bought some from flea-bay (sp?). Works like a charm. Like these but not from there...

http://www.pchub.com/uph/laptop/737-656 ... ipper.html

[galtjunk]

Buy the tool available on Ebay.
It will make life much easier.

[jjman]

I place the relief, with the cord in it, into my bench vise. I leave it tight for a while, rotating it a few times. Then I use vise grips to keep it closed and transfer it for installation.

[bal704]

I started drilling a 1/2" circular hole in the chassis next to the existing hole, and using the 1/2" strain relief that Valvestorm sells.

[pdf64]

I much prefer IEC power sockets to trailing cables off the chassis.
Of course getting big opening into a steel chassis is no fun either, but with a bit of elbow grease / dedicated tool, it's not a real problem.

[davent]

Here's another option that I've used on some projects. Cheap, easy and looks good but a bit industrial. Bigger than the Heyco though. Comes in several different sizes and even a 90° version.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-NPT-Strain- ... xyUrZS5XXh

$1.35 for the part, $15 plus shipping to Canada, there's always a catch.

dave