Faceplate for amp

[angelodp]

I have a Metro style amp from Mojo with front and rear faceplates. The faceplates do not have any adhesive. I could simply mount them and have the components hold them in place. They are a bit 'bendy' so I am concerned about the edges. Would love any recommendations on fixing these plates to the chassis?

Best A

[thetragichero]

that's what fender did

[angelodp]

Ok so as long as the cab encases the chassis all should be well. The idea of gluing the faceplate does not seem like a good direction.

Thanks

[xtian]

If this is a combo, def glue it down to avoid rattles. I buy sheets of 3M adhesive and cut to size.

[angelodp]

Hey, its a head cab, so maybe not an issue?

Ange

[Tone Lover]

I use double sided sticky tape hold mine down. It’s something I use at work all the . I drill a lot of chassis for my amps and it comes in handy holding them in place for that also. Bill

[ChopSauce]

The idea of gluing the faceplate does not seem like a good direction.

Thanks

Might be, depending on the glue you're using. Some are easily removable. Double sided adhesive might be cheaper/easier to find.

[xtian]

If you want the real deal, search for "3M adhesive sheets"

[angelodp]

Yes I did and had that stuff around a while back. So there is no issue with bleed through on use acrylic faceplates, as in the chemicals in the glue eventually marring the front face?

[xtian]

I've been using the 3M stuff on plastic faceplates (Gravpoly) made for me by IndCom Graphics for ten years with no issues. It's strong stuff--don't use if you ever want to remove your faceplate intact.

[wpaulvogel]

I just got 18 watt plates from Valvestorm and they also have no adhesive on them. I used a little epoxy to secure the rear panel. The front has enough jacks, pots and switches. The rear has a long run of nothing and it actually lifted from heat. I pulled the foot switch jack and smeared a little epoxy along the void and it’s now secure. I think once you stick any of the panels on with adhesive, you’ll never get them off again without damage.

[bal704]

I use plastic plates from Indcom. I ask for no adhesive with mine, as the hardware holds it in place.

[ChopSauce]

You guys in the US don't know how lucky you being able to easily find genuine 3M stuff (of course it's the real deal) nice plywood, etc.

I think once you stick any of the panels on with adhesive, you’ll never get them off again without damage.

I don't think so.

Honestly, I haven't tried it on faceplates, but using the kind of glue to hold the foam (yes it needs to be removable) on table tennis paddles might be a solution for having a removable faceplate that stays in place.

In France, a fair substitute is this

It is rather likely to hold vibrations and pretty easily peels off the surfaces.

Just use it as you would do with contact cement: let it dry on both surfaces before pressing them in contact.

NB: doesn't 3M makes a removable glue in spray & what about tolex glue?

[JMFahey]

Personal opinion: IF we are talking a front panel, with many "anchor points", say pots, jacks, maybe push-in switches with a narrow edge around , etc. plus front panel is thickish, say >0.8mm aluminum or >1mm acrylic or polycarbonate, I can trust just them and leave alone.

Now on back panels (and simple front panels, as in DrZ, AC4, etc.) which might have a couple jacks, maybe an IEC connector, a power switch, leaving large sections floating, ate the ends, of course, and worse if panel material is thin, I would discreetly place small stamp sized double sided tape rectangles at the corners.

Even if usually careful, there is always some "oops" moment catching one end against something and once bent it never comes back to normal.

For example, very common in 6 knob 4 jack Plexi panels, or JCM800, seen many old relics with cracked missing panel ends.

Just sayin´

[Blind Lemon]

Double stick carpet tape has always worked for me.

BL