Any suggestions for quality solid core wire source

[jcsifu]

So I decided to revisit this again, but the last time I did a long run that I guess got bent more than once and broke so I had to troubleshoot then redo. I would like to try solid core on just the V1 and V2 connects but I wanted to see what you guys have experienced with breakage and brands if anyone has gone that route. I have been extremely surprised lately with even a few mm of adjustment of plate and cathode wire proximity and the effect on OD tone/smoothness/bloom but looking to not have any movement after I place them. I'm wondering if after I button this up and start packing and unpacking the amp for gigs if anything will move. I am at a point in my builds that, thanks to the OG's of this group, I have begun to be able to tune an amp by knowing what choices to make. Very exciting for me, I can't even express in words my thanks to all of you, but I thank you.
Does anyone have a supplier or brand they would recommend...also, should I go with 20g or should I go thinner?

jc

[xtian]

Others might recommend solid core, but I don't. I use pre-tinned (also called top coat) hookup wire. It's awesome sauce. Stays put like solid core, but far more robust.

The 22-ga stuff is rated to 300v, the 20-ga to 600v:

https://www.mojotone.com/Pickups_x?search=pvc+wire

[jcsifu]

I felt the same way for a long time now xtian. I guess I'm just curious if solid will be anything that I can hear a difference in using. There have been plenty of things that I never would have guessed I could hear a difference in implementing but have proven to do so. I will buy some of that wire you link though. If the solid turns out to not make a difference I'll give it a go on the next build knowing that it stays in place well. Thanks for the link.

[pompeiisneaks]

See I've had the opposite experience, every time I use stranded, even pre tinned, I have failures with getting the stranded stuff to stay together and I eventually give up with about 2/3 of the strands through the hole and the other 1/3 is splayed all over the map

~Phil

[xtian]

even pre tinned

Weird, Phil! The Mojotone pretinned stuff stays together. Have you tried it? The only time I have trouble is if I try to bend the last 2mm of wire into a tight hook, then the strands will split. In those cases, I can just re-tin the end before bending.

[jcsifu]

See I've had the opposite experience, every time I use stranded, even pre tinned, I have failures with getting the stranded stuff to stay together and I eventually give up with about 2/3 of the strands through the hole and the other 1/3 is splayed all over the map

~Phil

Ha, I do recognize that same plight . A while ago I started to tin the end and use smaller needle-nose pliers to shape and compress the end to fit the shape of the opening (or portion available of the opening) which takes time and patience. I went to the mojo web site per xtian's recommendation for stranded wire and noticed their solid 22g is 600v. I've never used Mojo before. I had thought I would have to go with 20g for the solid wire that I was looking at elsewhere in order to get a higher rating than 300v, which would make it harder to fit multiple components in the socket. So that is better than I thought. I was even starting to look at different 9 pin sockets to see which had the most room to jam stuff in. I currently have Beldens in the amp which are round, but the one at Mojo has holes that are oval-shaped and looks like more room:

https://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/Tube ... ube-Socket

I'm thinking I really don't want to start pulling everything out for new sockets. I'm much too lazy these days for that, so maybe the 22g solid will fit in the existing sockets. Hope so anyway. I'll probably order some Mojo solid 22g tomorrow. We'll see how it goes and if I can tell a difference...

jc

[pompeiisneaks]

even pre tinned

Weird, Phil! The Mojotone pretinned stuff stays together. Have you tried it? The only time I have trouble is if I try to bend the last 2mm of wire into a tight hook, then the strands will split. In those cases, I can just re-tin the end before bending.

I think it's that they seem to always be larger than the hole, and therefore I apply heat hoping I can get them in, and the solder melts and they just splay everywhere. I don't recall, but after a few major fails, I gave up. I might be thinking of non pre-tinned, and I would tin it but it would always end up with a huge blob of solder on the end I couldn't get out etc, maybe I just need to try the pre-tinned stuff more.

~Phil

[sds1]

AES carries the Weico 600V topcoat wire now.

https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/w ... 0v-50-feet

This is good stuff. Strands stay together.

I know what you're talkin about with the strands coming apart, I have some 24AWG topcoat from a pedal parts supplier and it doesn't stay together long.

[dan46n2]

I felt the same way for a long time now xtian. I guess I'm just curious if solid will be anything that I can hear a difference in using. There have been plenty of things that I never would have guessed I could hear a difference in implementing but have proven to do so. I will buy some of that wire you link though. If the solid turns out to not make a difference I'll give it a go on the next build knowing that it stays in place well. Thanks for the link.

I can't imagine you could hear a difference. Most say there is no audible difference with point to point handwired vs PCB if the components are the same. However I just ordered some solid core wire from Steve at ApexJR, he has some good stuff. If you get teflon coated make sure to be careful not to knick solid core when stripping it and have it break later. I use a thermal stripper for the teflon stuff.

[T Wilcox]

Steve at Apex carries the best solid core I have found.
PTFE solid core
https://www.apexjr.com/wire.html

[jcsifu]

I felt the same way for a long time now xtian. I guess I'm just curious if solid will be anything that I can hear a difference in using. There have been plenty of things that I never would have guessed I could hear a difference in implementing but have proven to do so. I will buy some of that wire you link though. If the solid turns out to not make a difference I'll give it a go on the next build knowing that it stays in place well. Thanks for the link.

I can't imagine you could hear a difference. Most say there is no audible difference with point to point handwired vs PCB if the components are the same. However I just ordered some solid core wire from Steve at ApexJR, he has some good stuff. If you get teflon coated make sure to be careful not to knick solid core when stripping it and have it break later. I use a thermal stripper for the teflon stuff.

I don't expect to be able to tell a difference, just thought I would see and the next time it comes up around here I will have an opinion on it. Good point on knicking solid core wire, I learned that the hard way. I made a thermal stripper from toaster parts that is butt ugly but works. I'll look at Steve's stuff, thanks for the recommendation.

[jcsifu]

Steve at Apex carries the best solid core I have found.
PTFE solid core
https://www.apexjr.com/wire.html

Second vote for Apex. I'm stuck late at work but will go to his web site and check it out tonight. Thank you for taking time to make a recommendation.

[washburnmemphis]

You can find solid and stranded at Amplified Parts. They sell 6 colours 22awg in a variety pack for $11.50 or 50ft of each colour for $8.95 each. They also have cloth covered solid 20 awg for $9.00.
https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/wire

[Chris Brown]

I have used apex jr for the solid core with the ptfe coating a few times and it has been great. The topcoat stuff from mojo or pre-bond from smallbear is also fantastic.

[jcsifu]

I have used apex jr for the solid core with the ptfe coating a few times and it has been great. The topcoat stuff from mojo or pre-bond from smallbear is also fantastic.

Oh wow...I forgot about small bear. I started off doing mods to pedals back in the day and then went on to amps. I used to order from them all the time. Good people.