I was wondering if anyone has a source for a modern 20/20/20uF cap can that can fit in the mounting plate with three slots arranged in a triangular fashion (as pictured below) as opposed to the usual four tab variety? I just got a brand-new CE and it has four tabs which won’t fit where I need it to fit. Unfortunately the original mounting plate is riveted and soldered to the chassis with a heavy iron so my chances of removing it are slim to none.
When I am faced with this and do not have the room to add 3 separate filters I drill out the rivets, pry off the soldered on old plate and install a new one with the mounting holes clocked 90 degrees off from the original..
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Yoda wrote: ↑Mon Jan 01, 2024 6:44 am
I was wondering if anyone has a source for a modern 20/20/20uF cap can that can fit in the mounting plate with three slots arranged in a triangular fashion (as pictured below) as opposed to the usual four tab variety? I just got a brand-new CE and it has four tabs which won’t fit where I need it to fit. Unfortunately the original mounting plate is riveted and soldered to the chassis with a heavy iron so my chances of removing it are slim to none.
It's easy to drill out the rivets or use a Dremel to grind them out. This Weller D550 soldering gun will easily unsolder the mounting plate. If you're gonna repair tube amps you need this gun on your bench. You will probably need to enlarge the hole for the bigger cap can.
xtian wrote: ↑Mon Jan 01, 2024 5:13 pm
Another option--leave the old can in place but clip the +ve leads, then install some modern, radial caps in its place.
Yoda wrote: ↑Mon Jan 01, 2024 6:44 am
I was wondering if anyone has a source for a modern 20/20/20uF cap can that can fit in the mounting plate with three slots arranged in a triangular fashion (as pictured below) as opposed to the usual four tab variety? I just got a brand-new CE and it has four tabs which won’t fit where I need it to fit. Unfortunately the original mounting plate is riveted and soldered to the chassis with a heavy iron so my chances of removing it are slim to none.
It's easy to drill out the rivets or use a Dremel to grind them out. This Weller D550 soldering gun will easily unsolder the mounting plate. If you're gonna repair tube amps you need this gun on your bench. You will probably need to enlarge the hole for the bigger cap can.
You’re right, about having the right tool for the job. Have you used that particular iron? Because I was shopping for one for this exact reason but there’s so many Chinese ones on Amazon and some of them look physically too big to do what I need without damaging other components. The one you linked looks much better and is pretty affordable.
Stevem wrote: ↑Mon Jan 01, 2024 11:44 am
When I am faced with this and do not have the room to add 3 separate filters I drill out the rivets, pry off the soldered on old plate and install a new one with the mounting holes clocked 90 degrees off from the original..
Sorry I didn’t see this post before. I’ve done this before it’s just gonna be tough to do that without hitting all the other point to point components in the process on this particular amp.
We can disregard this thread at this point. I managed to get the old capacitor mounting plate off and I have the new ones that match the modern cap can coming in the mail. I will simply have to drill out the hole with a step-bit to fit but I feel it’s the only way to do it right. Thanks for the help anyways guys.
Last edited by Yoda on Mon Jan 01, 2024 11:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Yoda wrote: ↑Mon Jan 01, 2024 7:02 pm
You’re right, about having the right tool for the job. Have you used that particular iron?
I've had my Weller D550 since the early '70s. It will handle steel chassis solder jobs with ease. Weller makes high quality stuff. When you need the heat, Weller is hard to beat!
I have an old D550 too. Not sure how old (It says Cooper group), but old enough that it will accept a "tip" made from a short piece of 10 Ga wire, which is nice for chassis work.
