What Electrolytrics are trustworthy these days?

[Stevem]

Sorry I too am guilty of the ARS/AES mistake.

[cdemike]

I am very curious about the mojotone caps , didn’t know about them , thanks for sharing that suggestion Andy

I've had pretty good experiences with Mojotone electrolytics, but my sample size is pretty small; I've used and installed about 5 radial multi-section cans and about another 6 axial electrolytics from Mojotone. Of those, though, they have been good, and the caps that have been swapped in and out a few times mechanically stood up to soldering, de-soldering, and having leads manipulated. I can't speak to longevity yet, but so far so good. I didn't use them in my last build to cut down on the number of parts suppliers (read: shipping costs), but I'm considering swapping a spare 32x32uf multi-section into the screens node of that build.

[WhopperPlate]

No idea how or why Marshall would use ARS caps from a distributor in California

ARS advertise their product as LCR equivalents; likely part of the motivation.

[FUCHSAUDIO]

I am very curious about the mojotone caps , didn’t know about them , thanks for sharing that suggestion Andy

I've had pretty good experiences with Mojotone electrolytic caps, but my sample size is pretty small; I've used and installed about 5 radial multi-section cans and about another 6 axial electrolytics from Mojotone. Of those, though, they have been good, and the caps that have been swapped in and out a few times mechanically stood up to soldering, de-soldering, and having leads manipulated. I can't speak to longevity yet, but so far so good. I didn't use them in my last build to cut down on the number of parts suppliers (read: shipping costs), but I'm considering swapping a spare 32x32uf multi-section into the screens node of that build.

FWIW:
The Mojo multisection quad electrolytics are terrific. In many amps, the bracket holes line up with the chassis holes when you remove the fiber washer from the old Quad caps, so no drilling. In Fenders, I drill two holes (shoot me) and if you mount them right, they clear the old cap hole for the leads nicely.

They have proven reliable, and a fraction of the cost of the CE Quad caps. I've had one single failure (at 430 volts) of a dual section, which I'll chalk up to a random failure. It happened in my shop. No field failures in a few years of use. Great for Marshalls, Hi-Watt and the like..

[cavevalleyamps]

I’ve had great success with the F&T caps. Just be sure to put a dab of silicone between the cap and circuit board to hold them down. In the bigger Fenders with the doghouse cover the foam block won’t contact the smaller F&Ts and the leads can break. I’ve repaired a few. The wire gauge and electro solder connections aren’t as robust as the old Sprague TVAs.

[maxkracht]

I’ve had great success with the F&T caps. Just be sure to put a dab of silicone between the cap and circuit board to hold them down. In the bigger Fenders with the doghouse cover the foam block won’t contact the smaller F&Ts and the leads can break. I’ve repaired a few. The wire gauge and electro solder connections aren’t as robust as the old Sprague TVAs.

I keep a roll of .5" foam window insulation in the shop for old Fenders. It's just right to hold F&Ts in a doghouse, a bit too small for some other brands. Sometimes I will add some silicone to glue the caps together first, just to be sure. I have also repaired a fair number of amps with modern axial caps whose leads snap from vibration. I also wonder if some techs fuss too much with bending them in the exact orientation they want causing metal fatigue.

[FUCHSAUDIO]

I’ve had great success with the F&T caps. Just be sure to put a dab of silicone between the cap and circuit board to hold them down. In the bigger Fenders with the doghouse cover the foam block won’t contact the smaller F&Ts and the leads can break. I’ve repaired a few. The wire gauge and electro solder connections aren’t as robust as the old Sprague TVAs.

FWIW: I use a dab (literally a pea-sized droplet) under the caps on the doghouse tag board. You don't even see it and the caps don't move.
I like 6000 adhesive, although silicone is good too. Foam tape works (Home Depot sells it) as well, I also save the reverb tank shipping foam that works well too.

[WhopperPlate]

I am very curious about the mojotone caps , didn’t know about them , thanks for sharing that suggestion Andy

I've had pretty good experiences with Mojotone electrolytic caps, but my sample size is pretty small; I've used and installed about 5 radial multi-section cans and about another 6 axial electrolytics from Mojotone. Of those, though, they have been good, and the caps that have been swapped in and out a few times mechanically stood up to soldering, de-soldering, and having leads manipulated. I can't speak to longevity yet, but so far so good. I didn't use them in my last build to cut down on the number of parts suppliers (read: shipping costs), but I'm considering swapping a spare 32x32uf multi-section into the screens node of that build.

FWIW:
The Mojo multisection quad electrolytics are terrific. In many amps, the bracket holes line up with the chassis holes when you remove the fiber washer from the old Quad caps, so no drilling. In Fenders, I drill two holes (shoot me) and if you mount them right, they clear the old cap hole for the leads nicely.

They have proven reliable, and a fraction of the cost of the CE Quad caps. I've had one single failure (at 430 volts) of a dual section, which I'll chalk up to a random failure. It happened in my shop. No field failures in a few years of use. Great for Marshalls, Hi-Watt and the like..

That’s great to hear such a positive review over so many years . Sounds promising , looking forward to utilizing in the future . Thank you