Power filter schematic change help

[dpb703]

I bought this kit and the power filter section is a total of 10 caps on one rather small eyelet board. Kinda crazy. I want to reduce the number of caps. Can I keep the schematic as is, but assuming I use the same voltages, replace 2 40uf caps with (1) 80uf cap. and replace the each of the 40uf and 8uf pairs with one 47uf cap?

I'm learning a bunch here and really hope someone can tell me if I'm correct or not.

Thanks in advance.

Schematic.jpg

[maxkracht]

You are correct. You probably need to keep c12 and c13 in series for the voltage rating. Not sure what's up with the 40-8 pairs. Maybe a copyright trap, maybe that's just what the original builder had available?

Edit: I didn't register c29 and c30 right after the series caps. That doesn't make much sense... you could replace all the caps before the choke with one big cap if you want, assuming the voltage rating is high enough.

[Stevem]

It does not make a lick of sense to me other then two 50 Uf caps are likely cheaper then one 100 Uf and the same might go for all the 40uf and 8 Uf caps being cheaper then one 50 Uf, but I don’t know with todays prices!

All of the added voltage storage area as with the way it’s drawn might make the amp play stiffer as once the amp is up loud and the power supply starts to sag,

PS
Oh wait!
A two section can cap is going to be way the heck more expensive then one 100 Uf cap!

[dpb703]

Thank you!

I think the kit used the cheapest components. Dont want to bad mouth anyone but the 10 capacitors on a vertical board seemed crazy. That was the point of the change in #s of caps.

Dan

[GAStan]

The two 40uF caps are in series, so the single cap equivalent would be 20uF. The voltage ratings of series caps is added together.

[dpb703]

Then there has to be a reason for the the 2 40uf caps in series, why else would the designer opt for 2 in series over just one 20uf cap?

I realize this is likely a stupid question, but I'm really trying to learn this stuff. I really appreciate you r comments as it forces me to keep studying...

Thanks for

The two 40uF caps are in series, so the single cap equivalent would be 20uF. The voltage ratings of series caps is added together.

The two 40uF caps are in series, so the single cap equivalent would be 20uF. The voltage ratings of series caps is added together.

[sluckey]

Then there has to be a reason for the the 2 40uf caps in series, why else would the designer opt for 2 in series over just one 20uf cap?

It's common practice to put two filter caps in series in order to have a higher voltage rating.

This entire filter section is just stupid. Looks like a Weber drawing. Can you post the entire schematic?

[TUBEDUDE]

Maybe space requirements only allowed certain size caps in the designated area. Or Weber got great pricing on smaller caps. Hifi guys frequently use a combination of caps for faster response, but they are typically usually smaller values, and differing construction. For instance paralleled 20uF and 1 uF electrolytic with a 100nF film cap.

[maxkracht]

Two 40uf in series, plus the other two 40 in parallel = 40uf Plus the extra 100 in the can is 140. I doubt there is logic in this aside from weber having too many cheap caps they want to get rid of.

I have heard of people using parallel caps from different brands as a hedge against long term failure. If there is a manufacturing defect in one brand and it fails open or loses capacity, the other should be good enough to keep the appliance working. Knowing the quality of the passives in those kits, this doesn't seem unreasonable.

[dpb703]

Can’t thank you guys enuf. The schematic is from a Weber 6M45P kit. All 10 capacitors are actually supposed to be on a vertical board attached to the lugs of the PT. Wish I knew about is beforehand. Lesson learned. It’s my second build and unfortunately I didn’t spend time with the schematic or layout before I pressed the “buy it now” button. I consider this a newbie error, but on the plus side, I’m learning a whole lot more this time around.

In terms of posting the entire schematic, I’ve gotta check whether there’s a copyright mark on it. Over course, it’s available online. Im sure I’ll have some more questions.

Thanks for the support.

Dan

[sluckey]

In terms of posting the entire schematic, I’ve gotta check whether there’s a copyright mark on it.

Never mind. I've seen it. I suggest you just build it according to Weber's plan.

[johnnyreece]

I rebuilt a Weber 6M45 that someone else couldn't get working. Their issue? That cap board. I replaced it with cans and never looked back. Good luck in whatever direction you go!