wire gauge on builds
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
wire gauge on builds
My understanding is that 18 gauge for the tranny an power then after that 20 or 22 is fine. Do builders prefer the smaller gauge on your builds??
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Re: wire gauge on builds
I've found 18 ga. to be a little too cumbersome. I keep a supply of 20 and 22 in both stranded and solid, both in 300V and 600V. So far, so good.
Re: wire gauge on builds
Only the heaters and speaker see anything close to significant current.
If it says "Vintage" on it, -it isn't.
Re: wire gauge on builds
I agree. I've tried 18 on filaments and it is just too hard to work with. I use 20ga solid there. Voltage rating is based on the insulation, not the copper. Make sure you get the right rating. You don't want over 300V on 300V rated wire as it is a fire hazard.jimipage wrote:I've found 18 ga. to be a little too cumbersome. I keep a supply of 20 and 22 in both stranded and solid, both in 300V and 600V. So far, so good.
Re: wire gauge on builds
slight hijack here, but is there a better place to get hookup wire than apexjr? Any preferences for shielded wire?
Re: wire gauge on builds
I've had good success with Antique Electronics, as well as Metro Electronics in Sacramento -- can't remember their web addy, but you can look 'em up online(last time I checked, you actually have to call in an order with Metro, but they are extremely nice folks and have decent prices)
Re: wire gauge on builds
In my opinion, no.benoit wrote:slight hijack here, but is there a better place to get hookup wire than apexjr?
Tempus edax rerum
Re: wire gauge on builds
As far as hookup wire, I just got some from Apex Jr. Boy, that is easy stuff to work with! I usually have trouble stripping teflon insulation, but this stuff is just a breeze. Very fast service, too.benoit wrote:slight hijack here, but is there a better place to get hookup wire than apexjr? Any preferences for shielded wire?
-g
Re: wire gauge on builds
I found the teflon shielded wire to be too hard to strip w/o also stripping the sheild. I like Hoffman for it.
If it says "Vintage" on it, -it isn't.
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Re: wire gauge on builds
Hey All,
I'm thinking that I'll use 18 AWG on the power tubes followed by 20 AWG on the Pre-Amps'... 600V of course.
Trying to get 18 gauge into those tiny 9 pin sockets is about the limit of my skill!
Cheers, Mike
I'm thinking that I'll use 18 AWG on the power tubes followed by 20 AWG on the Pre-Amps'... 600V of course.
Trying to get 18 gauge into those tiny 9 pin sockets is about the limit of my skill!
Cheers, Mike
The Jammy Dodger
Re: wire gauge on builds
If you're using stranded wire, just separate out enough to go in the small hole, and wrap the others over the top, then solder.
Just make -sure- none of em escape to other pins
Just make -sure- none of em escape to other pins
Re: wire gauge on builds
I use 20awg teflon solid wire for everything that didn't come pre-attached to a transformer or pilot light assy, etc.
I have used 22awg PVC insul for a 4x EL84 amp with 12V heater supply (1/2 the current of a 6V heater amp) and 360V B+ ... holds up and works just fine.
I am sure when I run out of 20AWG I will likely replace it with a combo of 20 and 22 and start using 22 on everything but the heaters & speaker.
I have used 22awg PVC insul for a 4x EL84 amp with 12V heater supply (1/2 the current of a 6V heater amp) and 360V B+ ... holds up and works just fine.
I am sure when I run out of 20AWG I will likely replace it with a combo of 20 and 22 and start using 22 on everything but the heaters & speaker.
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- Location: central Maine
Re: wire gauge on builds
Ive been likeing solid bus for the heaters... see it in old McIntosh
and mentioned here by some..twist the supply and power tube fil.
then staight thru the pre.. it determines layout though and might not be
seen as usable by some.... try to use as large a wire as is practical other wise
I have heard arguments for and against solid and stranded....
differnt skin effect and capacitance....
ive also thought to try 99.9 silver in a cotton sleeve.... heard that that was
really good in critical signal carrying stretches....
and mentioned here by some..twist the supply and power tube fil.
then staight thru the pre.. it determines layout though and might not be
seen as usable by some.... try to use as large a wire as is practical other wise
I have heard arguments for and against solid and stranded....
differnt skin effect and capacitance....
ive also thought to try 99.9 silver in a cotton sleeve.... heard that that was
really good in critical signal carrying stretches....
lazymaryamps
- Funkalicousgroove
- Posts: 2232
- Joined: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:04 pm
- Location: Denver, CO
- Contact:
Re: wire gauge on builds
www.weicowire.com might be a teeny bit more than apex, but it's new wire not surplus. allied cable is another good place for cable (NOT allied electronics) www.awcwire.com
I use a combination of 20AWG solid and stranded, 18AWG solid on power tube heaters, 20AWG solid on preamp heaters. there is no real reason to use anything bigger
I use a combination of 20AWG solid and stranded, 18AWG solid on power tube heaters, 20AWG solid on preamp heaters. there is no real reason to use anything bigger
Owner/Solder Jockey Bludotone Amp Works
Re: wire gauge on builds
I bought some from http://www.mcmaster.com/
They have everything from PVC to PTFE.
Their teflon wire is a bit more than other places but they deliver quickly.
The 20 ga was .55/ ft.
They have everything from PVC to PTFE.
Their teflon wire is a bit more than other places but they deliver quickly.
The 20 ga was .55/ ft.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!