768]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/ ... G_0399.jpg[/img]Its a 71 champ ..... if not please suggest the correct way to wire.
is this done right
Moderators: pompeiisneaks, Colossal
is this done right
[IMG
768]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/ ... G_0399.jpg[/img]
Its a 71 champ ..... if not please suggest the correct way to wire.
768]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/ ... G_0399.jpg[/img]Its a 71 champ ..... if not please suggest the correct way to wire.
Re: is this done right
Actually Not. The workmanship looks fine.
1 -The white should be removed from the fuseholder.
2 -The other 2 wires should be removed from the fuse holder.
3 -Tie the white and 2 wires together, solder and crimp or wirenut the connection.
4 -Remove black power feed wire from switch and solder to fuseholder.
5 - Add a new piece of black wire from the other terminal of fuseholder to the switch.
1 -The white should be removed from the fuseholder.
2 -The other 2 wires should be removed from the fuse holder.
3 -Tie the white and 2 wires together, solder and crimp or wirenut the connection.
4 -Remove black power feed wire from switch and solder to fuseholder.
5 - Add a new piece of black wire from the other terminal of fuseholder to the switch.
Ok
Thank you for that. So this is an INT transformer and the twisted pair on the fuse should really be going to the white wire. The the black wire is at the center of the fuse and a jumper goes from the outside of the fuse to the switch.
great thanks
great thanks
Re: is this done right
Angelo,
I just saw this, and see what you were trying to describe in the PM you sent. Either way here is "correct". The instructions you got just put the fuse and the switch on the same side of the power line. The original wiring of the champ is exactly as your first picture.
It doesn't really matter whether the switch or the fuse is on the neutral or the hot wire, or one on each, per the original. Turning off the switch or blowing a fuse opens the power line as designed.
ampdoc
I just saw this, and see what you were trying to describe in the PM you sent. Either way here is "correct". The instructions you got just put the fuse and the switch on the same side of the power line. The original wiring of the champ is exactly as your first picture.
It doesn't really matter whether the switch or the fuse is on the neutral or the hot wire, or one on each, per the original. Turning off the switch or blowing a fuse opens the power line as designed.
ampdoc
Re: is this done right
Both of the pics will work. However, as stated, it's best to place the switch and fuse on the hot (black) line:
wall black > fuse
other side of fuse > switch
other side of switch > either existing twisted pair of tranny wires
wall white > the other existing twisted pair of tranny wires
This is the safest since a blown fuse will keep voltage away from the maximum number of areas.
wall black > fuse
other side of fuse > switch
other side of switch > either existing twisted pair of tranny wires
wall white > the other existing twisted pair of tranny wires
This is the safest since a blown fuse will keep voltage away from the maximum number of areas.
If it says "Vintage" on it, -it isn't.
-
skyboltone
- Posts: 2287
- Joined: Wed May 10, 2006 7:02 pm
- Location: Sparks, NV, where nowhere looks like home.
Some answers.
Here's this amp:
http://schematicheaven.com/fenderamps/c ... _schem.pdf
I was puzzled as to what the yellow/black and red/black are for. Was this an international transformer? Yes, I think so. These are the center points on a 240V primary.
The 6.3 volt wiring is clearly wrong. We have one of the (primary) Black input leads going to the pilot light. Instead, it should have the green wire that is currently tied to one side of the switch with the other (primary) Black.
This never did have the old fashioned "Death Cap" wiring. One could have simply clipped the bypass cap off the fuse holder and been done with it, but there have been too many hands in here.
Let's assume, for sake of argument that the two blacks are the ends of a 240VAC winding and the yellow/black and red/black are the centers. Then it makes sense to have those two stripy wires going to the fuse holder. If this is true, one would install an insulated solder strip, tie the white wire from the cordset and those two stripy wires together there and solder them up. Then take the black wire from the cordset to the tip of the fuse holder, another wire from the body of the fuse holder to one side of the switch. Then remove the black from the pilot light and solder it to the other side of the switch thus landing both black wires on the same tab of the switch. Opposite of the wire from the fuse holder. We now have the 120VAC wiring correct.
Then notice, as the scheme shows, Fender grounds one side of the filament winding. That has been done at the puddle to the upper right of the transformer. The red with yellow is the center tap of the High Voltage winding. Notice too that there are two mystery wires there as well.
Leave them alone. Now, we take the other green wire (6.3VAC filament) off the switch and solder it to the tip of the pilot light. Then the white wire on the pilot light goes on to feed the filament of the 12AX7. Now the 6.3V wiring is correct.
I think that's it.
Dan
http://schematicheaven.com/fenderamps/c ... _schem.pdf
I was puzzled as to what the yellow/black and red/black are for. Was this an international transformer? Yes, I think so. These are the center points on a 240V primary.
The 6.3 volt wiring is clearly wrong. We have one of the (primary) Black input leads going to the pilot light. Instead, it should have the green wire that is currently tied to one side of the switch with the other (primary) Black.
This never did have the old fashioned "Death Cap" wiring. One could have simply clipped the bypass cap off the fuse holder and been done with it, but there have been too many hands in here.
Let's assume, for sake of argument that the two blacks are the ends of a 240VAC winding and the yellow/black and red/black are the centers. Then it makes sense to have those two stripy wires going to the fuse holder. If this is true, one would install an insulated solder strip, tie the white wire from the cordset and those two stripy wires together there and solder them up. Then take the black wire from the cordset to the tip of the fuse holder, another wire from the body of the fuse holder to one side of the switch. Then remove the black from the pilot light and solder it to the other side of the switch thus landing both black wires on the same tab of the switch. Opposite of the wire from the fuse holder. We now have the 120VAC wiring correct.
Then notice, as the scheme shows, Fender grounds one side of the filament winding. That has been done at the puddle to the upper right of the transformer. The red with yellow is the center tap of the High Voltage winding. Notice too that there are two mystery wires there as well.
Leave them alone. Now, we take the other green wire (6.3VAC filament) off the switch and solder it to the tip of the pilot light. Then the white wire on the pilot light goes on to feed the filament of the 12AX7. Now the 6.3V wiring is correct. I think that's it.
Dan
The Last of the World's Great Human Beings
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Re: is this done right
By the 70s, Fender was using universal transformers on these amps. They could be wired for 120VAC or 240VAC depending on how the taps were connected. See this link:
http://schematicheaven.com/fenderamps/champ_cbs.pdf
As far as I can tell from the pics posted, the heater wiring is CORRECT as is. That's actually a green wire on the piot lamp (the other one is grounded as are half the heater terminals on the tube sockets). The wire on the Switch is green-black -- part of the AC primary -- and it's right where it should be. The black and green-black wires together on one side and the black-red and black-yellow on the other side mean this PT is wired for 120VAC.
BTW, the extra lead (the dark yellow one I think) is a connection for an internal transformer shield. It goes to ground.
http://schematicheaven.com/fenderamps/champ_cbs.pdf
As far as I can tell from the pics posted, the heater wiring is CORRECT as is. That's actually a green wire on the piot lamp (the other one is grounded as are half the heater terminals on the tube sockets). The wire on the Switch is green-black -- part of the AC primary -- and it's right where it should be. The black and green-black wires together on one side and the black-red and black-yellow on the other side mean this PT is wired for 120VAC.
BTW, the extra lead (the dark yellow one I think) is a connection for an internal transformer shield. It goes to ground.
Re: is this done right
[quote="ampdoc1"]Angelo,
It doesn't really matter whether the switch or the fuse is on the neutral or the hot wire, or one on each, per the original. Turning off the switch or blowing a fuse opens the power line as designed.
ampdoc[/quote]
It really DOES matter if the neutral is fused. If by chance, the fuse blows, there will be a path for current to flow through ground and then return through the center taps. Fusing and switching should always be done on the "hot" side of the line. This is the exact reason NEC is written for commercial and residential wiring.
This is not intended to start a war, just to clarify the point. Been there, been shocked!
It doesn't really matter whether the switch or the fuse is on the neutral or the hot wire, or one on each, per the original. Turning off the switch or blowing a fuse opens the power line as designed.
ampdoc[/quote]
It really DOES matter if the neutral is fused. If by chance, the fuse blows, there will be a path for current to flow through ground and then return through the center taps. Fusing and switching should always be done on the "hot" side of the line. This is the exact reason NEC is written for commercial and residential wiring.
This is not intended to start a war, just to clarify the point. Been there, been shocked!
-
skyboltone
- Posts: 2287
- Joined: Wed May 10, 2006 7:02 pm
- Location: Sparks, NV, where nowhere looks like home.
Re: is this done right
Thanks firestorm. I wasn't seeing the color right.Firestorm wrote:By the 70s, Fender was using universal transformers on these amps. They could be wired for 120VAC or 240VAC depending on how the taps were connected. See this link:
http://schematicheaven.com/fenderamps/champ_cbs.pdf
As far as I can tell from the pics posted, the heater wiring is CORRECT as is. That's actually a green wire on the piot lamp (the other one is grounded as are half the heater terminals on the tube sockets). The wire on the Switch is green-black -- part of the AC primary -- and it's right where it should be. The black and green-black wires together on one side and the black-red and black-yellow on the other side mean this PT is wired for 120VAC.
BTW, the extra lead (the dark yellow one I think) is a connection for an internal transformer shield. It goes to ground.
The Last of the World's Great Human Beings
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Seek immediate medical attention if you suddenly go either deaf or blind.
If you put the Federal Government in charge of the Sahara Desert, in five years time there would be a shortage of sand.
Re: is this done right
Hey,..no war. I like to learn something new. Been shocked myself a few times.
ampdoc
ampdoc
In the end I went with
[IMG768]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/ ... G_0414.jpg[/img]
Interesting that there are conflicting opinions. I hope this is safe. It plays very nicely.
PS I did solder those wires after this shot so its all nice and tidy.
768]http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii9/ ... G_0414.jpg[/img]
Interesting that there are conflicting opinions. I hope this is safe. It plays very nicely.
PS I did solder those wires after this shot so its all nice and tidy.