relay arwork needed for making PCB

[Tonegeek]

I want to try rolling my own PCB for socket mounted relays (pin spacing is a standard IC socket). I also use some NEC relays that have .1 X.1 spacing for which there are no sockets available in which case I would directly solder to the board. Anybody got any printer ready artwork for doing either of these options? Feel free to PM me or post here.
thanks

[Deric]

I have print ready files for these on my computer at home. 1, 2 or 3 relays to a board. I'm pretty sure the pad spacing is .1"

If you want them, PM me you r e-mail and I can send them over tonight.

[IMG:160:120]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/stumper1/PCB%20Relays/th_RelayPCBs.jpg[/img]
[IMG:160:120]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/stumper1/PCB%20Relays/th_RelayPCBs012.jpg[/img]
[IMG:160:120]http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/stumper1/PCB%20Relays/th_RelayPCBs011.jpg[/img]

[benoit]

I want to try rolling my own PCB for socket mounted relays (pin spacing is a standard IC socket). I also use some NEC relays that have .1 X.1 spacing for which there are no sockets available in which case I would directly solder to the board. Anybody got any printer ready artwork for doing either of these options? Feel free to PM me or post here.
thanks

Seems like it might bet less headache in the long run to just buy some relays that would fit a socket, eh? If you every have to replace one, anyway. I guess I have no idea how often those things fail.

[Structo]

Relays are cheap.

I bought that board set from Deric and it worked great!
Plus he sent instructions on how to build the power supply and a BOM.

I was very satisfied.

This is the relay I used as recommended by Deric.
They work great.

Mouser 653-G5V-2-H1-DC5
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omr ... hwGQ%3d%3d


This is the socket I used.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mil ... 2enQ%3d%3d

[Tonegeek]

Yea, this looks like a practical way to go so my next build will have a PCB, and the Omron 5v relays in a socket.

I currently use the NEC relays that only draw 12ma (1028ohm coil). They have been working flawlessly for 3 years in one build. I custom make the socket because they are an odd size. (Idid find one place that sells the .1X.1 sockets but they are a custom order and over $4 each!) On my original amp they are soldered directly to the eyelets via a spliced on wire. Making sockets and splicing tiny wires (blurred vision anyone.. ) is no longer practical so I have to move on. I originally used the low power relays because they are small, and the status LED can be wired directly in the coil path with no added circuitry.

With the 5v relays how are you guys wiring the footswitch status LED?

Is that a doubler circuit with the current limiting resistor I see in the photo? would that not put the voltage pretty high if you were coming off the heater supply ? I am using that same circuit minus the limiting resistor to drive my 12v relays. I use 2 X 1000uF caps though.

[Deric]

Whit,

I run a separate (+) wire for the LEDs and wire them in parallel with the relays. I've been using 5 conductor cable (quad mic cable) and a 5 pin DIN plug. That's enough for 3 relays/footswitches.

The power supply in the pic is a voltage doubler from the D Lite layout. Powered off the 5v rectifier heater winding running 12v relays. Worked fine with 2 relays - not so good with 3. I'm currently running a doubler and a 5v regulator with 5v relays. It uses a lot of parts but it works. I've run up to 4 relays and LEDs and get a rock solid 5v.

According to Talbany and heisthl - Using a FWB and a large (1000uf or bigger) filter cap (no regulator) off an extra 5v or 6v winding works great with the 5v relays too. Not sure how many it will run though... Check out the last few posts on this page http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... sc&start=0

[Deric]

Whit,

Got a part # or link for the small relays. I may have a socket idea....

[Tonegeek]

Whit,

Got a part # or link for the small relays. I may have a socket idea....

mouser part: 551-ec2-12nj

I have been experimenting with the doubler with a variac set to 6.3v and can power 2 of the 551-ec2-12nj relays. Have not tried 3. My test doubler had 2 X 250uF caps and no current limiter resistance or the 3rd cap in parallel with the load. I get about 16 volts with relays off, and it drops about 2 volts for each relay when I turn them on. Using bigger caps should help. If I put the 100 ohm resistor in there, it drops the voltage to around 7 - 8 volts - not good although the relay still works. Did not try 2 and wouldnt trust it anyway even with one.

my tried and true relay supply uses the 12.6 volt RS tranny, a FWB through a 100ohm resistor to a 3300uF cap with a 12v/1W Zener across it. It keeps a steady 12v even with 3 relays on and I suspect it would handle a couple more. I use Marshall trannies so have plenty of heater current. Just makes sense to try and ditch that RS tranny. I have my PS board set up where if there is noise from the heater powered relay, I can rip it out and go back to the tranny version. Am crossing my fingers...

BTW Duncans PS designer will model a voltage doubler. I just don't know what to put in the config when it wants the resistance (impedance, really) of the tranny, caps, etc.

Let me know if you come up with a socket for these little buggers. I think the ones I saw were at Digikey and they seem to have some ridiculous minimum order. I make mine by cutting up a standard socket and epoxying it back together. Its cute, but hardly worth the effort and I won't be doing it again.
whit

[Deric]

Have you ever tried the 5v version?

The spacing is not quite what I imagined but you could use something like this...

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=101

These can be snapped off to any length and you can snip off any un-used pins... 2 of them running parallel should be more than sturdy enough to hold a small relay. You could always put a small blob of epoxy in the middle... Just a thought.

I need to do a Mouser order anyway... I just might order a couple of these to play with...

[dimitris]

Derik wrote:

Have you ever tried the 5v version?

The spacing is not quite what I imagined but you could use something like this...

I have used the small 5v relays with great success.
I'm using regular 16 pin ic sockets. The small relay mounts in the middle 6 rows of holes.The nice thing is that you can design your pcb that way that could accept both small and big relays without any modification.
Check attached photo for an example.

[Tonegeek]

Have you ever tried the 5v version?

The spacing is not quite what I imagined but you could use something like this...

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=101

These can be snapped off to any length and you can snip off any un-used pins... 2 of them running parallel should be more than sturdy enough to hold a small relay. You could always put a small blob of epoxy in the middle... Just a thought.

I need to do a Mouser order anyway... I just might order a couple of these to play with...

not tried the 5V ones, but yes, the socket is the one I was referring to, except that Mill-Max also makes a DIP version that snaps off and the spacing is .1 X .1. I could not find the SIP or DIP versions at Mouser. If you are going to go to the trouble to use 2 SIP sockets you might as well get the common and cheap .3 DIP (open frame) sockets and cut them in half with a dremel. Takes 2 seconds. Where the pain comes in is trying to mate these things to an eyelet board. Using a PCB solves that problem which is why I am going to give that a try. Your idea about putting eyelets on the PCB appeals to me. I just like having something I can modify later without having to worry about burning off a copper trace. Also it is aesthetically pleasing. I wonder though about making a permanent connection to the copper trace with the eyelet. I would think you solder it to the trace but what happens when you later on solder your wires in? The solder on the eyelet would reflow. Might not be an issue, but I would want to make sure about that.

[Structo]

This basically how I wired my amp.

[ampdoc1]

That is my board shown on the Brown Note drawings. I'd be glad to send you the .pcb file, and you could order more boards. These are not too expensive if you get PCB Express Standard Service 2 layer boards,..~$105 for 6 pcs.

The power supply is a FWB and runs about 8VDC with no load. But with 5VDC relays, the board has no trouble powering 3 relays + 9 LEDs (front panel, footswitch, and on-board reference). Additionally, I tested it with the full compliment of relays and LEDs, with the AC supply voltage down to ~75VAC,..so there is no problem with "brown-outs".

ampdoc

[Tonegeek]

That is my board shown on the Brown Note drawings. I'd be glad to send you the .pcb file, and you could order more boards. These are not too expensive if you get PCB Express Standard Service 2 layer boards,..~$105 for 6 pcs.
ampdoc

Great looking boards! Deric got me on Layout Creator which I think is going to work well for me. I really want to try making my own boards. thanks though...

This basically how I wired my amp.

Tom, I think this is how Deric said he wires his too. I like the fact that if you use the switches at the amp, it will turn on the footswitch LED. Pretty cool. I put switches at the amp on my first build but never used them so I don't do that anymore. But, it is added insurance if something breaks on the footswitch.

Heres how I have been making my relay boards (the relays are .3" X .6"):