Tone Pros Bridges/Tailpieces

[David Root]

Looking at putting these on my Epi Elitist 57 Goldtop. Looks like a mod that would pay off tone wise.

Anyone use them? Opinions?

[paulster]

I've changed a generic tune-o-matic and tailpiece to Tonepros locking ones and the really obvious difference was a marked improvement in sustain, but it improved in ways that are difficult to describe (especially being so long since I did it).

One thing to check though is the dimensioning depending on whether your guitar uses an imperial or metric bridge and tailpiece.

[LeeMo]

I was killin time in Barnes and Noble while the wife shopped this eve and flipped thru a Vintage guitar mag. This Tune-o-matic caught my eye.
http://cvguitars.net/images/ABR-Locking.jpg

LeeMo

[sliberty]

I've put the intonatable Tone Pros Wraparound on my old Epi Coronet, and it is wonderful. I have also put the locking studs on my Junior, and again, I really liked the results. They make nice stuff.

[212Mavguy]

Lots of the guys on the Heritage guitar forum love the Tonepros stuff, and for good reason. One of my Heritage guitars has the Tonepros bridge and tailpiece, and they are very nice.

[David Root]

Thanx guys, that's unanimous I'd say!

LeeMo, that ABR is the one I was thinking about getting but I want it in nickel not chrome.

Need to get the tailpiece as well.

Wait! Now I see Callaham has an ABR-1 NC machined from a billet of 1018 carbon steel. Claims much better than a zinc casting for sustain. That I believe, but it's not locked up on the studs like the Tone Pros. Is the Tone Pros a zinc casting?

Decisions decisions!

[dreric]

I asked this question to Gary Brawer, a SF area tech of some notoriety. His response was:

"They solved a problem no one knew they had"

I think that's very accurate. I've got them on a few of my guitars, it's good. If you snuck them onto a guitar would I notice? I don't think so. If you think that a MM power transformer sounds better than a MC, go with the tonepros

E

[HeeBGB]

I've played Sliberty's guitars and I will second his assessments. Definately an improvement. I use Pigtail stuff on my guitars and I am very happy with the results. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the higher quality parts makers. They're all pretty good.

[Reeltarded]

I prefer very normal and lightweight stock style hardware.

[billyz]

Best Vintage tailpiece/abr1 = Pigtail.

Best inexpensive tailpiece= Gotoh , I believe Gotoh makes the tonepro stuff .

I put the Pigtail on my Ri59 and it trumped the Historic tailpiece sonically and esthetically.

the fit on the Pigtail is so good I find no good reason for the locking tonepro tail.

Also, get the pigtail studs, they are made from the right metal and really contribute to the tone and sustain. Gibson uses mystery meat for their studs. drop them on a glass table and hear the difference. Same for the tailpiece.

[vibratoking]

I have a Tonepros on an SG and the Gibson factory hardware on my Les Paul, 335, and Howard Roberts. I honestly cannot hear or feel any difference. The Tonepros was put on by the previous owner. It is a minor benefit that it locks, but I don't hear a sonic difference. Also, the plating sucked. It caused the threads to lock on several of the saddle adjusters. I had a big hassle getting replacements from Tonepros.

I looked at the Pigtail site. Wow! I bet you can't pay more for less anywhere else.

That is not where I would spend my money.

[David Root]

billyz, which abr1 material did you get, aluminum alloy or zinc? Zinc is pot metal I would think that would not resonate too well. Callaham's is a lot less, wooo $200 for an ABR-1!

[philmanatee]

I couldn't believe how much the pigtail tailpiece improved the tone on my lp custom, the price is crazy though. Phil

[billyz]

billyz, which ab1 material did you get, aluminum alloy or zinc? Zinc is pot metal I would think that would not resonate too well. Callaham's is a lot less, wooo $200 for an ABR-1!

After Talking to steve at pigtail I kept the stock ABR1 on the historic. He admitted it was decent enough. The real tone key is the stop tail and studs. I believe the vintages ABR ones are zinc, but could be mistaken. I was going for an authentic sound from the late 50's and got it along with using a Real PAF (I had in my drawer and a later TTop w/ paf screws from Dave Stephens).

I am not familiar with your Elite Epi, you should look at the bridge you have now and make sure about what will drop in. Also, Gotoh is very good for the money. i previously had a Light weight Gotoh tail piece on a 1965 345 and it was very good until I found a vintage one. They are both aluminum but sound slightly different.
I don't think I would spent $500 on a new bridge system for a $1000 guitar, pickups maybe.

I think if I were you I would look into a Gotoh Aluminum stop tail first, try it, see if it makes a difference to you. Then go from there, after the pickups .

If you go one step at a time you will know what does what, and might be happy before you drop a wad.

Oh, and check what you have now. I think these were made in Japan and They might have a Gotoh aluminum bridge already.

Pickups would be the first thing to change and will make the most difference. I like these.
http://www.sdpickups.com/humbuckers.shtml

[paulster]

The real tone key is the stop tail and studs.

Absolutely. Changing these on my R9 to the RS made a huge difference without having to touch the ABR-1.