Structo wrote: they need to repair it to see if that was the problem?
Hey that's what I tell my crustomers. Especially the mechanics & MD's.
"Well the flutenary differential must have clogged the framistat valve. You're going to need a new set of exemplary compacitors and possibly an optional bias bypass. Of course you'll be under general anesthesia, so you better sign off on that beforehand."
One guy said he understood perfectly! I've never been so emulsified in my life...
Phil_S wrote:My Honda Civic check engine light came on, so I took it to the dealer for diagnosis.
Just as an FYI, you can use a smartphone app such as Torque (five bucks, or get the "lite" version for free if you are that much of a tightwad) and a cheap Chinese bluetooth OBD reader from ebay or amazon (maybe $25ish? I haven't looked recently) to read and clear CEL codes and do all kinds of other stuff. Totally worth getting, even if you would never work on the car yourself; at least you won't have to take the dealership's/mechanic's word for it as to why the CEL is on.
Phil_S wrote:My Honda Civic check engine light came on, so I took it to the dealer for diagnosis.
Just as an FYI, you can use a smartphone app such as Torque (five bucks, or get the "lite" version for free if you are that much of a tightwad) and a cheap Chinese bluetooth OBD reader from ebay or amazon (maybe $25ish? I haven't looked recently) to read and clear CEL codes and do all kinds of other stuff. Totally worth getting, even if you would never work on the car yourself; at least you won't have to take the dealership's/mechanic's word for it as to why the CEL is on.
Still working on my F150 it has every sensor replaced, engine tore down to repair/replace all the cam and timing parts that were broke. Coil packs, cam timing sensors, and still get codes from AC causing stutter when accelerating.
Unplug AC helps but we keep finding wiring harness problems most likely causing ground out issues.
Everything is connected together on this truck. A 1932 Ford roadster is my next planned purchase. I have a 1950 Chevy 3 window pickup I plan to replace the F150 with unless we solve the issues.
Yes we have had a lot of highly trained techs working on this truck plus running diagnostics.
Thanks for the heads-up on Torque! I have, for the most part, quit working on cars. It is harder than it used to be and I am older than I used to be. I made an exception this one time due to the significant price of the repair vs. the DIY differential. BTW, it was done on Saturday without a hitch. CEL is OFF! All-in cost was around $100 vs sending it out for about $450.
I got ~8 years old Toyota Yaris, quite popular car here in Europe and good for city, it's really dependable but when something breaks down it will probably cost a lot, I remember when rear's wiper engine went down - original was around 160$ ! Problem is that online sellers knows the price so even used one costs a lot (which I finally bought). Recently clutch was changed - 450$ (dealer wanted 550$).
You are getting off light. My daughters civic just broke a timing belt because my lazy ass didn't change it sooner. The truth is, this is my fourth child I have kept a car running for. I do most of the work. I am pretty worn out!
The G8 was actually an Australian car (Holden Commodore), you know . . . As was the 2004-2006 GTO. But I agree that the recent domestic cars are much improved from the bad old days.
