LP Scratch build

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rp
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by rp »

telentubes wrote:I don't know what PUs to use, and am up for suggestions. The J.M. Rolph humbuckers have caught my attention. Not much info on his website.
In for a penny in for a pound, I think you should wind your own!

I'm sort of kidding, I know an ace luthier in NYC and also a friend both who've been immersed in this stuff for decades who do/did wind and the results were never less than terrific. I'm not sure how much the luthier has invested in it but he seems to only wind for his own custom projects so it's likely not too much and I'm betting his set up is pretty basic if not raw. The other guy was winding pickups for kicks in the early '80s before StewMac made it all easy. Just hacking it, reusing dead or cheap jap pickups with the bobbin somehow stuck in the chuck of a craftsman hand drill in one hand and the wire spool on a stick in the other. Really winging it, but still checking on a meter for resistance. Honestly they all sounded great often amazing, full of energy, bright and alive. I'm sure there were a lot of abortions along the way that they never showed off, still. Seems too easy, obviously you've got the manual chops, I assume you have the ears. That's what these guys had, they knew where to go so they got there.

Otherwise I'd go tried and true. Nothing worse than pickup rolling (and buying) except speaker rolling. Some pickups just achieve symbiosis w/ a guitar, that's not always easy, some guitars are difficult. I think that's an other reason you see so much rolling these days, too many generic mega factory guitars with mediocre wood (the other is too many people who can't really play). Hopefully your guitar will come out full of vim and pretty much any pickup will sound good.

Thankfully I always avoid the rolling thing as I've always had vintage/semi vintage guitars, but I had Duncan antiquity PAFS, in a 90s Hamer Standard that were terrific, and in all the years he's been making them I've never heard anyone, anywhere disappointed in Fralins. The times I've noted a good sound and checked what they were using it was often Bardens and Bill Lawrence. The Antiquities and Fralins were the consistent recommendations of the two guys I mentioned above who've installed probably thousand of picks btwn them in the last 30 years and seen a lot of tail chasing and rolling. BTW both of those guys dislike Lollars FWIW.

Anyway, ask people here to gift you their dead pickups and then get a spool of wire, a stick and hand drill :lol:
telentubes
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by telentubes »

I will use my drill press and a Forstner bit, with the depth stop set to the desired depth. The body will be positioned so the bottom of the hole, when drilled, will be parallel to the corresponding portion of the top.

Or, I will make a little sloped surface to clamp to the back that is parallel to the top surface (which is rounded but you know what I mean) and route to the proper depth. I can measure the thickness of the wood between the bottom of the cavity and the top surface with a Hacklinger
(http://intviolinweb.cloudapp.net/Produc ... iper-112mm), which is a tool used in the stringed instrument industry to measure plate thickness (tops and backs). I bought one about 20 years ago when they were just expensive, not ridiculous.

Pick ups? Maybe I will wind my own. Sounds like fun. I like the idea of measuring resistance more than trying to count the revolutions, especially if using a hand drill.
Heard good things about the Fralins and Lollar Imperials.
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martin manning
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by martin manning »

The pot mounting surface is a tricky feature for sure. Although not true to the original, a spot face with a Forstner seems most straightforward, and should give you good control over the remaining thickness at each location, if you can support the body adequately when you are machining it. You could drill the pot mounting holes from the outside first, normal to the surface at each location using some kind of cylindrical drill guide, and then insert a dowel through the hole to line up the drill press' quill axis.
telentubes
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by telentubes »

We had a whole host of these in a variety of sizes in the boat yard I used to work in in Seattle. This tool would be perfect for the job. It gives a flat bottom cut without the perimeter scoring that you get with a Forstner bit.
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martin manning
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by martin manning »

Nice. You might even run it in with a hand drill after boring a hole from the outside (super nice if the pilot is the same size as the pot bushing), and it could be its own depth stop with maybe a plug inserted from the front.

Probably a good idea to try a test on scrap first, though!
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Structo
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by Structo »

I can recommend the Dimarzio 36th Anniversary PAF pickups.

I have a set of them in my Shecter that really sound good.

Low to medium output.
Tom

Don't let that smoke out!
telentubes
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by telentubes »

Thanks Tom. I'll have a look.
moj067
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by moj067 »

Regarding JM Rolph. You have to call him. Tell him what kind of wood etc.
He'll ask what you play and what kind of sound, he'll even play stuff over the phone. The guy has alot of experience. Keith Richards tele has his pickups in it.
I've rolled my own and came up w/a sound I like, but that takes a ton of time away from what you'd probably rather be doing, which is playing.
telentubes
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by telentubes »

moj067
I emailed Rolph and they recommended I call, so I will. As for other pickups,
Wolftone Dr. Vintage looked interesting, and there have been more recommendations for Lollar Imperials.
Also interested in your "roll your own" experience. Someday I'd like to try that, but for now, I'm going to use some pickups that I've had in a box since the mid 80s. Might as well use those and get the guitar up an running.

So here is some progress...

Gotoh tuners installed as well as bone nut (not Nylon).
Stop-tail installed.
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Reeltarded
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by Reeltarded »

Great job! It's going to be a nice one!
Signatures have a 255 character limit that I could abuse, but I am not Cecil B. DeMille.
telentubes
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by telentubes »

I use the "equal distance between the strings " method for nut and bridge layout. As opposed to the "center to center" method.

The bridge studs are screwed into the top after tapping the holes.

The saddle may be on backwards. Does it matter?

Strung up "in the white".
I left the neck really chunky and will shave it down after playing for a long while. I like fat necks in general so want to be careful not to take too much away. You know why.
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telentubes
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by telentubes »

Bridge pics
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telentubes
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by telentubes »

I cut the cavities to the proper depth. The control cavity was a PITA and fine tuning the router platform took some time, but it ended well.
I got some "Historic pots" that range from 490 to 540. I'll use the higher values for volumes.
The switch is a "short" Switchcraft. I used it because it had about 1/8" more threads, which means I could leave the top thicker where the hole comes through.
Thanks Miles. Might have a color question for you down the road.
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vibratoking
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by vibratoking »

Beautiful work. I love what you're doing.

I have a '58 reissue LP no chambers. I has the fattest neck of any guitar I own or have ever played. I love that fat neck and the tone that comes with it. 'Let's get small' doesn't apply here IMO.
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martin manning
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Re: LP Scratch build

Post by martin manning »

How does it sound?

Some nice close-up pics of a Tune-o-matic installation here: http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/1 ... tic-bridge

ABR1 had the screws on the PU side, Nashville opposite. I believe some people will flip the bridge around to get some additional compensation from moving the saddle contact points further from the nut, but it would be better to flip the saddles. Your saddles are oriented half one way and half the other, which seems like a good plan.
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