Anyone in the southeast/east coast have experience servicing Lab Series amps?

[pompeiisneaks]

You want me to rough 'em up? I have a mouth that won't stop until everyone is crying.

Don't think you can go back in time to Baghdad my friend, but you can try!

~Phil

[Reeltarded]

Dood. I have Twitter.

I won a Presidental Award for Shitposting.

34648C1B-ADE2-4BBC-91C5-1E36259B78E9.jpeg

[imjonwain]

I say go for it! but I am just up in Asheville, NC if you want someone else to do it or need help. I'm gonna be out of town the next two weeks but will be around after that.

I'm somewhat familiar with those amps as I was working on a PCB for the preamp section of the Pearce G1 awhile ago but lost steam on the project. Dan of Pearce amps co-designed that amp with Bob Moog originally.

[dorrisant]

Is there a repository of info on these? I have the 4x10 (Rola) combo that I got from a guy rebuilding it. He lost steam and never reassembled the chassis. So I have a nice cab and some parts.

[imjonwain]

Aion electronics makes a PCB that is the entire preamp section of the lab series guitar amps w/ compressor. They have a pretty good amount information in the PDF on their site.
https://aionfx.com/project/l5-preamp/

Not the lab series but here's info on Pearce Amps. Dan carried alot of what he learned designing the lab series over to his Pearce guitar amps in the late 80s/early 90s. Similar design concept with OTA based distortion running into a compressor after the EQ/initial preamp.
http://www.travis-hartnett.com/Pearce_A ... ments.html

[thetragichero]

here's what i have on the lab series. i also have info on the l3 (killer little combo!) but it's completely different than the rest of the amps in the series

Lab_Series_L5_L7_L9_L11_scheme.pdf

Lab_Series_L4-1.PDF

Lab_Series_L4-2.pdf

l5_notes-2.jpeg

l5_notes-3.jpeg

[cbass]

You want me to rough 'em up? I have a mouth that won't stop until everyone is crying.

I had a great comment but I am sticking with my new years resolution. If I think I have a hilarious joke just don't say it. The more it makes me chuckle the more I shouldn't say it out loud.

[vipor3D]

I got sidetracked from my post here, but I'm still wanting to get the amp fixed and finally pulled the chassis this morning. I've been referencing the schematic and guts to get a list of all electrolytic caps that would need to be replaced.

When I went to pull the chassis, though, I noticed something rather odd. There was a grounding terminal from the outside of the PT to the cabinet. The screw looked newer than the others in the cabinet, so I don't think it's original. Is there any reason why someone would do this?

[vipor3D]

The caps are probably easy to get to, and there aren't more than ten BIG solder connections. This is not tiny underboard work on amps of that era. I could be wrong. Do you have a gut shot of your amp?

EL caps are seriously easy and we can talk you step by step. You only need a table top, a general purpose soldering iron, and the 4-6 caps.

Shipping would cost a shipload! With the things laying on the table, 25 minutes later amp is closed up and you are playing it at volume without hum.

I swear.

So I pulled the chassis and tried to identify the cap values, but most had their values turned towards the board so I couldn't read them. I went through the schematic and highlighted all of the caps I could see and made a list of them which I've attached. I also attached the highlighted schematic.

I did have a couple of questions, though. In the schematic there's one spot (highlighted red/orange) where I can't tell if it's calling for two 75v caps and two 100v caps, or only two of either 75v or 100v? I also highlighted these in my list.
Edit: Looking at the amp, it appears that the two 75v caps correspond to the big can capacitors under the chassis, but still not sure about the 100v caps mentioned in the schematic in the same spot. Since this schematic covers multiple versions of the Lab Series amps, could that 100v be for the amp models with higher power ratings?

Also, I've read that some of these cap values aren't standard or very common, so would I be better off seeking out substitute caps? If so, which caps would be the most likely to substitute?

[vipor3D]

The caps are probably easy to get to, and there aren't more than ten BIG solder connections. This is not tiny underboard work on amps of that era. I could be wrong. Do you have a gut shot of your amp?

EL caps are seriously easy and we can talk you step by step. You only need a table top, a general purpose soldering iron, and the 4-6 caps.

Shipping would cost a shipload! With the things laying on the table, 25 minutes later amp is closed up and you are playing it at volume without hum.

I swear.

I've attached gut shots of the amp