picked up this off reverb with the intent to gut and turn into a monster amp
so right now I'm at disassembly and cataloging what to keep and what to trash. reverb tank tests good but one of the springs is detached without the little mounting bits. one of the screen resistors blew up, taking out the tube socket pin and this is a likely cause
musicians aren't human
my idea is to get a filament transformer so that i can run a quad of 6550s. with all the holes (and six preamp slots) I'm thinking two preamps (orange-ish for dirt and hiwatt-ish for clean) with high and low inputs and reverb on the clean side (may opt for 12dw7 since i have a couple hammond-pull gibbs tanks that have high input impedance). once i get the boards out and cleaned I'll draw up a schematic and figure layout. obviously replacing the output sockets since one is so charred
PRR wrote:
Plotting loadlines is only for the truly desperate, or terminally bored.
rectifier and doghouse board are fine, scrubbed with denatured alcohol. the main board is another story and not worth using in my opinion. i have a piece of vulcanized fiberboard from antique electronic supply that's the perfect size. am i correct in assuming that since there is some measure of rubber (hence the vulcanized name) that this is not susceptible to the same problems as the fender black stuff? i also have a fiberglass/epoxy board but it's shorter and fatter. i could use this but I'd rather use something that is the proper size (otherwise i suppose i could add something to an upcoming order)
chassis is covered white dusty-looking stuff that doesn't come off with denatured alcohol but my chrome polish seems to do the trick so i guess i know what I'll be doing while watching football with the wife
PRR wrote:
Plotting loadlines is only for the truly desperate, or terminally bored.
I would prove out that the OT is good first by pumping some AC voltage tru it and checking what come out the secondary end before you spend money on other parts.
When I die, I want to go like my Grandfather did, peacefully in his sleep.
Not screaming like the passengers in his car!
Cutting out a man's tongue does not mean he’s a liar, but it does show that you fear the truth he might speak about you!
Tale a look at the 6L6 socket spacing, might be too narrow for 6550's. I think there is a 1.75" or more recommend spacing between them.
At least the 60 amp fuse is still good
Tube junkie that aspires to become a tri-state bidirectional buss driver.
i have a replacement 135w ul ot i purchased (here) awhile back for a build that still hasn't happened yet just in that case but yeah my plan is to test all of the transformers once the rest of the stuff is off the chassis. I'm the kinda guy that even when purchasing a claimed working amp i don't turn on until I've gone through it
PRR wrote:
Plotting loadlines is only for the truly desperate, or terminally bored.
I would put that amp in working order (at least the power supply and power amp) before ripping it apart. And take some voltage readings. Might be useful later.
been working on another project as a gift for someone but since I'm not stick waiting for parts i hooked the output transformer up to ac and its measurements match up to another bassman 135 output transformer i picked up here awhile back so the ot is good. also tested the power transformer and that produced the expected voltages
so transformers check out, chassis is cleaned. waiting for more eyelets in the same order to finish my eyelet board, which i have laid out on masking tape that I'll tear away as i fill it (screw duct tape, i LOVE masking tape)
this'll move along at its own pace
PRR wrote:
Plotting loadlines is only for the truly desperate, or terminally bored.
