Marshall Studio Vintage SV20H PPIMV

[angelodp]

Hi, my grandson has a Marshall SV20H and was asking about a PPIMV mod? Its a PCB amp so I am a bit wary of tackling the mod. Any folks tried this?

A

[bmx]

Many of the newer Marshalls are done on double sided PCB which allows easy part placement and replacement without removing the board. You probably could pull it off with relative ease as the mod solders in at the Output tube Grid resistors. One issue would be finding a spot close by to mount the Dual gang pot. Likely the back panel? Shoot some guts shots!

[Lpmojogl]

Hi, my grandson has a Marshall SV20H and was asking about a PPIMV mod? Its a PCB amp so I am a bit wary of tackling the mod. Any folks tried this?

A

Hey there.

New to the forum, not new to Marshall mods.
A ppimv would render the SV20 more useable at home, or in any low volume situation.
You can easily perform the Rich II mod, or spend a bit more time and $ for the Lar/Mar mod.
Both mods are well documented all over the internet. Neither will cost much or take too much time.
Good luck.

[ccie11129]

Just did the Trainwreck type 3 PPIMV on the SV20H. It’s documented on the Marshall forum with pictures and diagrams. I was going to do the Rich II mod, but the type 3 didn’t require removing any components. I ended up heating the solder on the power tubes pin 5 and sunk the pot wire into it. That was much easier than trying to get it on the small resistor leg. I removed the tubes first.

I noticed the sound with my Schaffer Replica pedal in front of the amp was thin and fizzy at bedroom level. I put a volume pedal in the FX loop to fix this issue. I was able to turn up the PPIMV and bring it down a little with the volume pedal.

I am very happy with this mod. This is the first time since I’ve had this amp and a Class 5 before it that my guitar feels like it can finally breath at lower volume.

[ccie11129]

Corrected my previous post. I mistakenly said soldered the pot wires to the PI when it was actually the power tubes.

[angelodp]

Good intel thanks. Any pics of the mod?

Thanks Ange

[ccie11129]

Was going to link to Marshall forum pic, but you have to be logged in to see it. Here it is. I soldered to pin 5 of the power tubes and used half of a 500k dual ganged pot that I originally got for the Rich II mod. Pin 5 is annotated on the pic. You can see there is more solder there to work with.

If you do go with the Rich II mod, can you try the Type 3 first with alligator clips and let me know which you prefer?

All the best,
Mark

[ledvedder]

Was going to link to Marshall forum pic, but you have to be logged in to see it. Here it is. I soldered to pin 5 of the power tubes and used half of a 500k dual ganged pot that I originally got for the Rich II mod. Pin 5 is annotated on the pic. You can see there is more solder there to work with.

If you do go with the Rich II mod, can you try the Type 3 first with alligator clips and let me know which you prefer?

All the best,
Mark

HI, are you still happy with this mod? Where did you mount the pot? I'm really loving the SV20 tones I'm hearing in demos, but it's just too loud for my needs.

[ccie11129]

HI, are you still happy with this mod? Where did you mount the pot? I'm really loving the SV20 tones I'm hearing in demos, but it's just too loud for my needs.

I am very happy with the mod. I play with it as loud as I can get away with. I have all the windows and door closed in my bedroom and I don't bother anyone else in or outside the house. The one thing I miss is being able to come out of the bedroom and say "How was that?". Now nobody can answer because they didn't hear it. I would say that I have it set at the point where volume and tone are just right for my situation. There may be tone tradeoff at a certain point and the lower you go, but it would still be usable to me. I would say it shines at a decent bedroom volume up to situations where you just need to shave off a little volume.

I mounted the pot in the lower normal channel jack. I had to remove both normal channel jacks since they are on the same PCB. I have the PCB still connected in a plastic bag tucked inside the chassis. I just received a non-pcb jack that I am planning to mount in the top normal channel hole and solder an instrument cable to it and plug it into the PCB board top jack that is inside the chassis. I'm not sure how this will work, but the plan was to make it possible to jumper the bright and normal channels again.

My last idea was to somehow slightly counter sink the split pot shaft into the bottom normal channel jack and put the jack nut in the hole to make it like it look like it did before the mod. I would adjust the volume with a pick inserted in the shaft slot that would be just inside the hole.

[drew]

Nearly two grand, and they use pots and jacks like this? Well, at least they put it in a pretty box.

[Reeltarded]

Nearly two grand, and they use pots and jacks like this? Well, at least they put it in a pretty box.

We call this a blivet. I can't believe this is a $1900.00 amp. I can't believe it is a $400 amp.

holy crap

[rooster]

MV could fit next to the pilot light? Especially if it's a micro size like the stock pots. $1900 just amazes my senses.