Starting a D'Lite

[CHIP]

Eric,
I got the chassis from Brownnote and sourced everything else.
2k alpha presence pot.

[dreric]

It drives me nuts when what I think should be a easy part to get proves to be the opposite.

Where on earth are folks getting:

10 mf @ 25v
5 mf @ 25v

Mouser has a minimum order for these of 100 pieces, apex jr. NO, watts, NO am I missing something? I can get them in higher voltages like 100-150 but the anal retentive in me will never rest..............

Eric

[bigmik]

are these what you need?


mouser 10 @ 25v

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vis ... X3TdYzc%3d



5@25v

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vis ... 88ctlEU%3d

[mlp-mx6]

10uF 25V
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xic ... 1bXgtWU%3d

5uF 50V (agreed, the 25V has a 230 minimum)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vis ... RCA4jlE%3d

[bigmik]

10uF 25V
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Xic ... 1bXgtWU%3d

5uF 50V (agreed, the 25V has a 230 minimum)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vis ... RCA4jlE%3d

sorry checked the 10uf didn't check the 5uf

[IcemanB52]

On the schematic there's a jumper between the 1st and 2nd lug on the bass pot. On the tweaked layout it's not there. Who knows which is correct? On my tweaked d'lite I put the jumper in. I may try cutting it out.

If you're using the tweeked d'lite schematic, keep the jumper. Other schematics (see non-HRM 101) break the jumper as part of the PAB function on the relay.

[IcemanB52]

It drives me nuts when what I think should be a easy part to get proves to be the opposite.


Eric

Attached is my BOM. I've done a pretty exhaustive internet search to find the right parts at the best price. Good luck on your build!

[Structo]

This is what I did.
I run a wire from each right side lug on the Bass pot to the PAB relay.
I connect the two wires to the normally closed relay switch so that when PAB is selected the jumper is removed but when out of PAB they are joined.

You can also experiment with padding on the PAB to attempt to control how much volume boost you get, supposedly.
I haven't tried it because to me, it really depends where your tone controls are set.
The lower you set them the higher the boost will be when PAB is engaged.
But if you have them all past 12:00 the boost won't be as loud.

[dreric]

Thanks to everyone who's chiming in with info!!! I really appreciate it. Should have the last box from mouser at home tonight! Then I can start practicing my building skills, be gentle LOL

Eric

[dreric]

Parts parts parts ................ there should be some sort of game show theme music that plays while we wait for parts, it could help pass the time. After more than a few orders the only thing I'm waiting on is the 2K pot, which will be here Monday.

Below is a a couple of shots of the build so far.

I have (Tom) couple of (Tom) of questions. (just kidding anyone can answer) I've seen other amps using a very similar rectifier set up but with .01 ceramic caps running parallel to the diodes. What's the purpose of this and is it a good idea? Second based on the tweaked d lite schematic where would place a passive effects loop?

Thanks

Eric

[Structo]

You called?

Looks like you are moving along.
The purpose of the ceramic caps on the diodes is to quiet the switching transient noise on them.
I used .01 1kv
I see some builds here with them, notably Gil Ayan's amps.

I used UF5408 diodes on my last overhaul.
Before you order these, let me warn you that the leads on them are fat and I had to drill out the eyelets a bit before I could install them.
With two leads and a cap lead in each hole it a shoe horn was almost needed.
So if you want ultra fast diodes, pick a lower current one.

The caps are nice epoxy coated, larger in size and carry the Y5U rating.

Mouser # 667-ECK-A3A103MEH

These diodes should fit fine. A ultra fast version of the 1N4007.

Mouser # 625-UF4007-E3

[Deric]

The loop goes between the Master Volume and the PI.

[Structo]

This shows where the jacks are connected to for the loop.
These are simply passive jacks, you can run a reverb on just the jacks but a Dumbleator is really part and parcel for these amps.
It only took me two years to build one!

Oh by the way, does that chassis have a separate face plate?
Or is it screened onto the chassis?

Looks different from mine.

[dreric]

Thanks guys!!!!!

So, am I a bad man if I just use 1N4007? I have a bunch of them.

The chassis and boards are an RJ thing. It's 1/8 AL and the plates are separate anodized AL with engraving.......... nice! Everyone has been a little punchy lately and RJ's taken a few slaps so I'm reluctant to sound too much like a plug for him,,,,,,,,but I'm very happy with the chassis (and we ALL know how hard it is to find one) and he's a pleasure to do business with. I think he has some 124 chassis sets in the works.

Eric

[ChrisM]

1N4007 are fine, Dumble used them as well