CE Chassis Bolts

[ChrisM]

The two bolts on the back side of the chassis will not move they are stuck and locked up. I must have forced them in there in the first place.

I don't want to strip the bolts anymore than I already have. Really pissed off with myself. What are my options?
I could cut one bolt. The other there is not enough material to get at to cut.

[John_P_WI]

Uh Oh.....

http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... nless+bolt

[David Root]

Try to get some light oil or WD40 into the threads, then put a visegrip on the screw head real tight. That worked for me.

[ChrisM]

I sawed off one bolt.

Here is what I am left with. I have no idea what to do about this one.

[ToneMerc]

The one I just mounted screwed in like butter using thread lube. Tom, please make a CE chassis sticky about this.

TM

[Structo]

I did the same damn thing.
I had screwed in a screw part way by hand and then went to tighten them with my cordless drill and cross threaded it.

When I tried to back it out the screw broke off.

I had to snake in a hack saw blade to cut it flush with the chassis so I could pull it out.

Then I drilled the screw out by center punching it then drilling with a drill bit that slightly smaller than the screw.

The threads on the insert were damaged just a little so I ran a tap through it to clean it out.
I ordered some new screws from CE and I put some vaseline on the end threads and pay very close attention while screwing them in by hand to make sure they are not crossed.

There is something metallurgical happening between the screw and the nut insert that causes it to seize if it is even slightly off.

I dodged a bullet on that one.

Mike, not sure what to make a sticky?

[ChrisM]

Got it out
Too much force and lubricant than I'd like to mention but the bolt is out!

I wish CE would make a note about mounting or find a way to improve this. Very frustrating.

[John_P_WI]

IF "zinc" plated pems were used with the chassis and / or lubricant was used on the stainless screws the galling / seizing would be greatly reduced.

[ToneMerc]

IF "zinc" plated pems were used with the chassis and / or lubricant was used on the stainless screws the galling / seizing would be greatly reduced.

I recommended after the second prod run that they switch to the steel captive nut and the s/s bolt combo.

TM

[John_P_WI]

TM +1

[ToneMerc]

Mike, not sure what to make a sticky?

CE Chassis Mounting Screw Recommendation

The CE chassis captive nut and chassis mounting bolts are both currently stainless steel in composition. Dryfitting stainless steel to stainless steel fine threads can and will have a tendency to gall and seize. It is highly recommended that you lightly lube the first few threads of the bolt or the captive nut. Good success has been shown using a number of different thread lubricant compounds such as Never Seez or Loctite Silver Anti-Seize.

TM

[odourboy]

Mark and I have been following this issue - I always finger tighten and remove as far as possible and never use a power tool on these and haven't had a problem. But it seems to be more prevalent than we initially thought since it's come up several times now.

SS PEM nuts were selected at the recommendation of our shop because it would not react with the aluminum chassis material. SS bolts obviously chosen for their cosmetic appeal.

We could certainly go to a 10-24 thread for the next round assuming it would be less likely to gall than a 10-32. Can anyone comment on how much of an issue it would be to use steel captive nuts in an aluminum chassis (or are we just trading one problem for another)? Mark got some anti-seize lube with the intention of prelubricating the bolts, but the stuff was like paste and too messy to use. Can anyone suggest a suitable lubricant? (A specific brand and name would be appreciated - maybe a few suggestions because many of the brands commonly available across the border are not available in Canada).

Sorry for the inconvenience this has caused anyone.

[bcook]

The best way would be to use brass screws with the ss nuts, or vice versa.

[phsyconoodler]

The problem is fine machine threads,not metallurgy.

Lubricant should always be used and hand tighten.10-24 would be better for people who are in a hurry.

Machine threads are too exact and they have very little wiggle room.
I use rivet nuts and have zero issues.Oh,and aircraft stainless fasteners do not catch threads as easily as cheaper screws do.

[ToneMerc]

Can anyone suggest a suitable lubricant? (A specific brand and name would be appreciated

These are the two synthetics I use, Redline assembly lube and Militec-1. I like the Militec because for a fluid it's viscous enough that it won't run or drip. I apply one drop along the first 4-6 threads and wipe off the excess. You could prelube the threads and most likely still package them in the same small manilla envelope. I've also used the Redline, applying just a little on the captive nut threads using a toothpick.

I think I have a small sample bottle of the Militec and I could send you dallop of the Redline to try as well.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=77&pcid=17


http://www.militec1.com/

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/195431 ... g-_-195431

TM