Silicone
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Silicone
I remember a thread that discussed types of silicone that one might use in a chassis to stabilize wires or caps. I did a search and can't relocate it. The thread implied a warning on not using certain types ( perhaps temperature related ). I have some DAP - cures in 24hrs 100% silicone. Is there a better type to use, perhaps faster setup time.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by angelodp on Thu Oct 23, 2014 1:14 am, edited 2 times in total.
- David Root
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Re: Silicone
Silicone, not silicon.
There are two types, one acid cured, acetic acid, which is corrosive and you don't want, the other alkaline cured, ammonia, which is the one you want as it's not corrosive and is suitable for electrical work.
You have to read the label closely (because they use 2 pt font), but IIRC the one I use is branded GE "something" type II.
There are two types, one acid cured, acetic acid, which is corrosive and you don't want, the other alkaline cured, ammonia, which is the one you want as it's not corrosive and is suitable for electrical work.
You have to read the label closely (because they use 2 pt font), but IIRC the one I use is branded GE "something" type II.
Re: Silicone
And then there's a nice hi-temp version in the event you want to secure power resistors.
I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
- Leo_Gnardo
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Re: Silicone
GE silicone caulk is the one to get. Sets up in about an hour. I've used it on circuits good up to and maybe beyond 25 kV, yes 25,000. Also good to waterproof tub/wall joints & windshield seal repairs too. A fantastic "does it all" product. Despite all that "I smell vinegar". I think it does have acetic acid in it, but can't say I've ever seen corrosion even in applications where it's been in place for decades. Maybe another brand is the corrosion culprit?David Root wrote:Silicone, not silicon.
There are two types, one acid cured, acetic acid, which is corrosive and you don't want, the other alkaline cured, ammonia, which is the one you want as it's not corrosive and is suitable for electrical work.
You have to read the label closely (because they use 2 pt font), but IIRC the one I use is branded GE "something" type II.
down technical blind alleys . . .
Re: Silicone
I use silicone for mold making. Its made by Smooth-On, and considered food grade, so it is probably not leeching acid.
http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubbe ... index.html
Note that there are several durometers offered.
John
http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubbe ... index.html
Note that there are several durometers offered.
John
Do not limit yourself to what others think is reasonable or possible.
www.johnchristou.com
www.johnchristou.com
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Re: Silicone
Any harm in using hot glue to secure things?
"It's like what Lenin said... you look for the person who will benefit, and, uh, uh..."
Re: Silicone
It could get hot enough that it might give up its grip? Anyone know the melting point?
- Leo_Gnardo
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- Location: Dogpatch-on-Hudson
Re: Silicone
Martha Stewart sez "it's a good thing!" I spo'se, if you're making a holiday wreath or something like that.beasleybodyshop wrote:Any harm in using hot glue to secure things?
I'm not too happy about seeing hot glue spritzed all over the place like Peavey does for instance. I s'pose anyone could be more careful than they are, with the amp insides looking like the top of a sweet roll. Properly placed it's an OK adhesive. If you're a dab hand with a heat gun maybe you can remove it when necessary too. I've tried weatherstrip glue by 3M too, very sticky, black or yellow-orange and hard to remove. Looks like that's what Rivera uses to glom things down in their amps.
For me, now it's GE Silicone clear or white, and occasionally Seal-All a handy clear contact cement and general glue. I can razor my way thru the silicone, use the ol' handy bent screwdriver, water pump pliers and/or vice-grip to get siliconed parts unstuck. Seal-All's a little tougher to remove, you better be sure you want that part to stay there long-term.
down technical blind alleys . . .
Re: Silicone
I use hot glue selectively. I like it because it's easy to remove later. It's great for tacking wires to the chassis, for example, and for making sure caps don't rattle against the chassis or the board. Melting point is around 220°F.
I also like it for glueing a set of radial caps together into a block. Very nifty. No reason the caps should be getting hot.
I also like it for glueing a set of radial caps together into a block. Very nifty. No reason the caps should be getting hot.
I build and repair tube amps. http://amps.monkeymatic.com
Re: Silicone
Hot melt glue is much better than silicone for me. Holds really well and a hot air gun will remove it.
I would use E6000 before silicone.
I would use E6000 before silicone.
Re: Silicone
Realize that it will act as an insulator rather than a heat sink or thermal conductor.xtian wrote:And then there's a nice hi-temp version in the event you want to secure power resistors.
Re: Silicone
Whatever this is/was, it's not doing the job.billyz wrote:Hot melt glue is much better than silicone for me. Holds really well and a hot air gun will remove it.
http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26253
[IMG576]http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah188/gearlovin/20141022_085759_zpse8258c1c.jpg[/img]
Re: Silicone
I've been using Loctite #51388 for 20 years, and it works perfectly for me:
http://www.grainger.com/product/12Z244? ... oCoDjw_wcB
[img:279:1050]http://sigma.octopart.com/29755060/imag ... -51388.jpg[/img]
http://www.grainger.com/product/12Z244? ... oCoDjw_wcB
[img:279:1050]http://sigma.octopart.com/29755060/imag ... -51388.jpg[/img]