LP Scratch build

[martin manning]

FB, did you see the long thread on TDPRI with Gil Yaron detailing his build of a '59 'burst copy? You mentioned LP forum, but I'm sure the one I'm thinking of is on TDPRI.

[telentubes]

You're right Martin. I got that link from you here at Amp Garage. Here it is...
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-de ... build.html
I read about 150 pages of it a couple of times. The thread is 357 pages long!!!! but has tons of good info. You can dial in your own degree of OCD.

Hi Cantplay,
Sadly, I don't have a picture of that step but will try to describe what I did. Pics would be MUCH better...
I cut a shelf into the top with a "Safety Planer", about 1 1/4" in from the outside edge, which established the finished thickness of the body, and the top side of the binding (I hope that makes sense).
I then drew a line about 3/4" in from the edge (it tapers to almost nothing at the top of the upper bout) on that plane, and set the stop on my drill-press to drill holes along that line to a specific depth. Something like 1/16", or 3/32" deep, into the flat plane. I then used the two curved scrapers that you can see in the pic, and sanding block to scrape and sand a fair curve until I reached to bottom of the holes. I used a 3/16" bit for the holes. It took some time, and I'm not done yet.

Here's a pic of the Safety Planer, and another with the tools I used.

I'm glad you asked about the re-curve section as this part of the old Les Pauls is what separates them from the modern versions, including the "historic" models. The new ones are sanded with wide belt sanders which homogenize the arching and all but eliminates the possibility of a re-curve or any dramatic shoulder in the pickup area. The new LPs that I looked at were one bland arch from one side to the other, giving the illusion that they were flat. I want to spend some time sculpting the top, after all, they were modeled after fine violins.

[telentubes]

Glued in 2 pieces of 1/8 X3/8" Carbon fiber rod with epoxy. You can see what the rod looks like in the foreground of the photo.
Cut slot for adjustable truss rod
Cut recess for truss rod nut
Glued in the adjustable truss rod

[telentubes]

Fit the tenon to the mortise.
Glued on head-stock "ears".
Bound the fret board with cream binding.
Glued on the ebony head-stock veneer

[telentubes]

Side markers for fingerboard.
Rough shaped neck with Safety-Planer and hand tools.

[martin manning]

Sadly, I don't have a picture of that step but will try to describe what I did. Pics would be MUCH better...
I cut a shelf into the top with a "Safety Planer", about 1 1/4" in from the outside edge, which established the finished thickness of the body, and the top side of the binding (I hope that makes sense).
I then drew a line about 3/4" in from the edge (it tapers to almost nothing at the top of the upper bout) on that plane, and set the stop on my drill-press to drill holes along that line to a specific depth. Something like 1/16", or 3/32" deep, into the flat plane. I then used the two curved scrapers that you can see in the pic, and sanding block to scrape and sand a fair curve until I reached to bottom of the holes. I used a 3/16" bit for the holes.

Like this? It looks like the depth of the recurve is reduced around the upper and lower bouts as the neck is approached. Really great work, and fascinating seeing it come together!

[ToneMerc]

Very cool, I said it before there's much talent floating around this forum.

TM

[Structo]

Thanks for documenting your build so well.

Will the neck binding have the nibs at the fret ends?

[telentubes]

Exactly!!! Thanks Martin.

[telentubes]

Tom,
No nibs on this one. Although historic, I don't like them.
Other "nontraditional" details are...
The ebony veneer on the headstock
The carbon rods in the neck
The MOP inlays
The 24 3/4" scale length (I was considering 25" but thought that would change the LP vibe)
Some details in the tenon. There were some big gaps in the originals for glue to escape during glue-up, but I glued the neck on, then the fingerboard (typically the fretted fingerboard is glued to the neck first, then the neck glued to the body). I like to level fingerboards after they are glued on, then fret after that. I feel that I have a better chance of getting the fingerboard really straight that way.

[telentubes]

Headstock cut on bandsaw then sanded.
Binding rabbet cut with overhead router, then cream binding glued with Duco Cement.

[Structo]

You make it look easy!

I know all about the challenges to build a Fender type guitar.

The Gibson's are a lot harder due to the angled headstock and mortise and tenon joinery.

What are your plans on the finish?

[David Root]

Magnificent stuff!!

Having built a solid body from scratch myself 12 years ago (it's the one in my avatar) I sure can appreciate what you've accomplished, Mr. T.

Jigs are the key, I should have used more of them. Please continue to document this as it goes to completion, this is a how-to-do-it of the first order!

Now, if I hadn't become besotted with amps I might have built more guitars!

[telentubes]

Neck glued on with hide glue.
The pickup holes were next. I hogged out the holes first by drilling holes on the drill press with the body tilted at 4.4 degrees (I used the adjustable jig I made to route the neck plane), which is the same as the neck angle.
Then I used the routing templates to clean up the holes. I made several passes as some of the holes are fairly deep. All holes are perpendicular to the neck/fingerboard plane, so when the pickups are installed, their tops are parallel with the strings.
To route the 4 deepest holes, I used a 1/4" router bit and just used the shank as the "bearing", because the corner radius is 1/4".
For the bigger "pickup body" hole, I used a 1/2" flush trim router bit and the template. It also took several passes.

[telentubes]

Here are shots with the PU templates, ready to route, propped up to match the plane of the neck. Note the 1/4" bit for the smaller, deeper holes. The bit is its own bearing.