Lorlin impedence switch

[RockinRocket]

Any one know the correct Lorlin impedence switch to get from mouser? Thanks

[DaveWell]

How many POL and How many POS you need ?

[Ron Worley]

Don't remember, but I think I had it in the BOM in the TW files section.

[RockinRocket]

How many POL and How many POS you need ?

Sorry I don't know what this means?

[RockinRocket]

Don't remember, but I think I had it in the BOM in the TW files section.

Nope! only the electroswich/stackpole switch. That switch is more a Francesca flea clip type build.

[RockinRocket]

Still don't know lol. Hoping to order some stuff from mouser with this part.
Thanks

[Colossal]

How many POL and How many POS you need ?

Sorry I don't know what this means?

I think he means Poles and Positions.

Unless you have to have a dead-on period correct clone, I would get an NKK switch:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK ... P2yPJTY%3d

[RockinRocket]

Dead on if its still available or something Lorlin that is close. Im sure Glen K knows this part

[geetarpicker]

I bought two Lorin switches back in 2007 when I built two replicas of my '89 Express. I'm almost certain I got them from Mouser. I just checked my parts stash where I had saved the little zip lock bags the parts came in, but sadly the Mouser labels with part numbers fade in time so badly they are unreadable. At that time at least the switch was available but the only change was the color. My '89 lorin is made of two main pieces of plastic, one part black one grey. The parts I got in '07 had both plastic parts in grey. If I recall correctly the switches come apart and you can adjust them by moving pins around for more or less clicks, 3 positions being what you want. They are a two gang switch and Ken would wire both gangs in parallel to get a little more current through the switch. I think what Ken used was the 2-6 position 2 pole switch, but with the pins set for 3 positions. Then he trimmed off the unused terminals. I'm not exactly sure but I think it looks like Lorin part # CK2394, being a non shorting switch with 9.5mm shaft length which sounds right to me, and the shaft is a D shape. My 2013 Mouser catalog still shows it. Maybe someone else can double check this. At the time they were around $5.

Here is a pic of one, trimmed and ready to go>

[Richie]

here is the part number geetarpicker posted..

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lor ... rrKMpvc%3d

[geetarpicker]

Thanks Richie!

I added a pic. Notice the two terminals in the middle, those are tied together for the common output. Then you jump the center terminal on top to the center terminal on the bottom. You also add two crisscrossed jumpers from the top left to bottom right, and the opposite for the remaining two terminals. Then you effectively have the two poles wired in parallel for better current handling, worth doing as it's a fairly light weight component but Ken made it work. Though it's all plastic I've never had one fail on my original '89 or two replicas. That said my '85 Express has the green stackpole switch, which is probably a better more heavy duty part. My guess Ken switched over to the Lorins somewhere in the late 80s.

[RockinRocket]

Thanks Glen, That's what ill buy. Looking at Ingrid, Kitty, and the Undocumented Express it looks like non of the terminals were cut off.

[geetarpicker]

The unused terminals are definitely clipped off in my '89 but maybe Ken got tired of doing it as it will work either way. Looks cleaner clipped though.

[rp]

Unless you have to have a dead-on period correct clone, I would get an NKK switch

I didn't know those are NKK, it's what all they guit-amp suppliers seem to stock so I was worried it might be a cheap Asian generic part and so ubiquitous I also feared bootlegs. Happy to hear they are as reputable as they look and feel.

[RockinRocket]

Dame did everyone just buy these? Mousers out of stock now lol