How to install metal corners

[LarryLarry]

Ok, so I'm thinking of putting metal coners on my maple Bassman head cabinet and I'm not sure how to install them w/o doing damage to the wood. If it was particle board and tolex I'd just get them close and hammer them down.

These are the type that have a lip and 2 screw holes. I'm thinking of notching a corner of my work bench at 3/4" and using it as a corner 'anvil' to hammer the new corners into shape with a rubber mallet.

I'm hoping I don't have take a little of the wood of each corner to get them flush. If that's the case, I'll probably only put them on the bottom which is the way the Bassman heads are anyway.

As always, any advice is greatly appreciated. Especially if it's of the 'been there done that' type...

[Jana]

If they are the type that take the countersunk screw, don't do what you described. It works fine on softer woods, but with hardwood, it is a disaster--don't ask me how I know this! What I do on hardwood is to measure carefully and mark on the wood where the screws will go. Then I take a large drill bit and countersink the wood enough so that the corner will fit down nicely. Hardwood won't "mold" and "form" like softer woods will.

[rp]

What I do on hardwood is to measure carefully and mark on the wood where the screws will go. Then I take a large drill bit and countersink the wood enough so that the corner will fit down nicely. Hardwood won't "mold" and "form" like softer woods will.

I use a countersinking bit even on pine, ensures an easy and nice fit. These things are stamped like crap, at least the budget Mojo ones, and are each a bit different, test fit and shuffle them around and then mark them w/a sharpie inside so you know which goes where. Buy a few extra in case you get some really difficult torqued ones. On pine/Tolex you can go at them with a mallet but as you said you'll want to avoid this on the nice finished wood. Check the chrome in good light before you install, I've had very many bad ones that I had to replace. Maybe buy the more expensive real Fender ones for this project? Or maybe the ones w/o the need to countershink and no lip?

[LarryLarry]

Thanks for the input guys, I'll have a go tonight...

[amplifiednation]

Those corners are for 3/4" wood with 1/2" radius and they wont seat square and sit flush without the countersink drilled.

I dry fit them, mark the screw holes, then use a 7/16" countersink on the spots where I marked. Then when I install I use a mallet to form the corner perfectly and then the countersink points help to square the corners. This is after tolex though.

Wait are you trying to mount them on a slanted front??

[Structo]

Yes, I installed the lipped metal corners on a Ceriatone head cab I got.
They are the two screw counter sunk.

I really had to hammer them into shape to get them to lay flat, otherwise there was big gaps.

Perhaps I got the wrong corners but the description did not say what thickness of wood they were to be used on.
So check the specs carefully.

This was on a tolexed cab so I wasn't too worried about hurting it by forcing the corners down.

On a finished wooden cab, I would be tempted to not put them on because one slip and you have ruined your cab.

[LarryLarry]

Thus far, I have opted NOT to put them on for the very same reason Structo!

[Iron Works]

I build many cabs and I've made a handy jig for the countersunk corners given they won't sit flat until you remove some material for the countersunk location. I've attached a photo of my jig and how I marked the locations for the holes. I offset the holes about 1/32 of an inch to compensate for the metal thickness. I use it to drill the start of a hole for the screw and then remove the jig and drill deeper using a countersink bit to remove some tolex and just a bit of wood. Then I install and remove screws in the holes to get them threaded straight, apply the corner and get screws started before alternately tightening them. Really makes the corners nice and tight.

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[martin manning]

Nice solution, thanks for posting! Do you do anything to account for the metal thickness, or just let the offset insure that the screws pull the corners very tight?

[Iron Works]

Thanks Martin Manning. I edited my post to add details you suggest.

[M Fowler]

Rubber mallet and pound them to shape.

Mark

[tubeswell]

I build many cabs and I've made a handy jig for the countersunk corners given they won't sit flat until you remove some material for the countersunk location. I've attached a photo of my jig and how I marked the locations for the holes.

Nice jig.

[Craig B]

Iron Works,
So simple! Why didn't I...?
Craig B

[dan46n2]

Just made the jig above, works great! I was struggling with these corners and this makes it so much easier.