The Amp Garage

You can download scope software for your PC. That's what I use, following Aiken's method. Works fine.

Jake

Thanks, everyone. I corrected them again.

You may want to change the bias supply according to Brandon's (Funk) recent post on this subject.

Of course, special thanks to Scott and Gil and Brandon.

Best,
Jake

You can get excellent panasonic caps from DigiKey. I've been using them for years in effects (yes, I believe I can hear a difference with distortion pedals and power supplies). I also used them in my Express. They sound great. By the way, the panasonic caps sound very close to the Low ESR nichicon c...

I don't think so. In fact, the non-HRM is a pretty fat sound, with a mid hump in the lower mid frequencies, as compared to the HRM, which has a higher frequency mid hump. It might help if you list your voltages and preamp values, as well as your PI plate values, and whether you used shielded cable. ...

I just moved around my overdrive and master shielded cables and it seemed to affect the overall tone very slightly, mainly the highs, but also the (crucial) mids. I'm sure it depends on what components and circcuit nodes the wires run near. An interesting test would be to place a 1 MEG pot in series...

Interesting question. A lot of cable uses braided shield, which does not create 100% protection; probably more like 80%. The Gepco stuff I have uses a solid foil as the shield, but I have not determined whether moving the cable alters the noise level. There are probably more answers, but I'm not the...

OK... My brain kicked in. I didn't consider connecting the (-) relay terminal and cathode of LED from the LED-Resitor-V+ string. I asked over at ampage if that was OK to do if these nodes are ungrounded. Looking back, I think this is what Gil told me to do! Here's another version, which is more simp...

OK... this is the only way I can imagine using a SPDT footswitch with the series Resistor>LED method used by HAD. ODand LED comes on when relay is in OFF mode. Same with other functions. As far as I can see, for the functions and the LED to come on when relay is turned on, you would need a DPDT foot...

The beauty of this design is the cheaper single pole switch can be used.

Thanks for sharing... Just so I know, was this HAD's design or is something you designed?

And, as a related question, did HAD use a SPDT footswitch or a DPDT one?

Thanks very much!!

Jake

Thanks for the enlightening discussion above. I'm still confused about my drawing with the series resistor and LED... Looking at the diagram, the switches on the left are panel switches on the chassis, and the ones on the right are foot switches. It seems like all the foot switches would do is turn ...

OK... Here's another draft. I still think I have it wrong, as the Panel Switches have to be on for the foot switches to work.

What is my little brain missing here?

Thanks,

Jake

double post...

I've done a search and came up with lot's of interesting info...

Does this schematic look correct to you guys?

My main quesiton is which radio shack transformer to get and how to connect the leads.

Also, the wiring for the LEDs is incomplete. Any thoughts on how to complete it?

Thanks, Jake

Just uploaded the corrected versions. Thanks for pointing out the mistakes! The schematics show 50 Watt versions, but lists alternative values in blue for 100Watt setups.

[EDIT] Uploaded the Relay circuit and Schematic Template

You're missing part of the ground ckt. The effects loop is grounded with a bus to the switches and speaker jacks. Also, all jacks are switchcraft metal so there's a possibility of a ground loop. I'll put that in as well. I'm researching this issue partly for my own edification. The noise in my AC l...