The Amp Garage

Welcome! As a recent beginning builder (who has let the hobby consume him) - my opinion is that you can’t go wrong either way - but I like making the boards myself or using high quality boards like Taylors. AAs boards get great reviews but I’ve never tried them. I also think the best sounding amps I...

Thanks for the info Steve - I’ve started watching his videos and will reach out with any questions. I’m a little ways off from it, but I like doing the research and understanding it a little better before hand. Sorry to hear your woodworking has stopped - but now your pieces are instant limited edit...

Thanks Steve! Sorry to be so frustrating - certainly not intentional. I try to do the research on my own and just check-in here for confirmation to make sure I figured it out correctly; but these switches were driving me “batty” lol. :roll: I was just over at your site looking at the Marshall Dual 5...

Thank you both for the diagrams - they do help. Does it make a difference if the switches are configured with one set of end lugs and one set of center lugs? Mine are DPST and it appears that’s how they are configured. Also, to your point Steve: the difference between my two drawings is where the wi...

But I think they orient the “on” position of the bat differently, don’t they? I always thought that switches like this are either open or closed - but trying to orient the bat correctly has me second guessing. I’ve been round and round with this so much I’m a bit lost at this point - so please put m...

You understand correctly Martin and thank you!
I don’t know why these seemingly simple things get me so turned around. It’s almost like a “who’s on first” loop going on in my brain when I start trying to “see” the way it should work.

Second drawing, right?

Actually, I think this is the right way:

Got some more done today and starting to figure out the switching IRT routing the wires and such. Probably do that tomorrow. Getting to the point where I’m probably going to stop until the power transformer gets here. IMG_0559.jpeg Choke got here today and I got that in. Was a bit challenging but it...

Fantastic, thanks again Roe!
Your Marshall expertise is always appreciated!

Ah, OK - thanks Martin. I wasn’t sure if it also included switching the DC instead of AC.

To be honest, I’ve read so much about this in the past few days it’s all kind of blurring together.

Got it Roe, thanks again. Upon re-reading my post; I think I misunderstood the switching. What I typed is still hot switching, isn’t it? Re: 1 - understood, RGKs “one true ground”. Re: 6 - understood, so 2 amp mains/.5 HT then? Re: 8 - also understood, so leave the DC routing from rectifier into the...

Thanks for the advice Roe! I was just reading up on the switching on these amps and came across a method to eliminate the “hot switching” that Marshall built into these. Let’s see if I can type it out correctly… 1. Connect the PT Center Tap directly to main chassis ground point. 2. Attach HT Leg 1 (...

Did a little on the board today. Rebuilt the bias circuit, got the .68uf and .022uf caps in, plate resistors, cleaned up some janky turret connections, V2 plate resistor in, and got some more funk up off the board. I think I’m going to go with the rectifier block since that’s how it was made. Got a ...

Thanks neskor, I appreciate the help! A little steep on the price. I’ll have to check on the duties and fees etc. to see if it makes sense. Based on what I’m finding I’m wondering when the last time this amp ran correctly - which makes the anticipation of lighting it up with everything put back righ...

So plugging away today and I decided since everything was apart and mostly unsoldered, I’d check and measure some other stuff. Everything was going fine until I clipped test leads to the choke - at which time I got a reading of .8 ohms. Made sure everything was clear of other “stuff” and tried again...