The Amp Garage

I know I've already had my say on this one, but lines like: I have changed the post that Hogy lost it over. I hope all enjoy the humor in the new name. just dont sit right with me. When I started to read that long winded first gospel according to Allynmey I got a bit more comfortable...almost sleepy...

I think Hogy needs to explain himself a little bit here I dont think he has to explain himself at all. It is his design that he makes a living out of. Why should he have to explain or justify his actions to any of us. You have to respect a guys rights to protect his amp and earn a living. I bet if ...

I am all for building personal copies of amps that are now well out of the reach of the average joe. Using the same brand of caps, transformers, lead dress, cabinet shape, materials is all fine by me.....but I personally draw the line at an exact logo. I have a photo somewhere at home of a fantastic...

May I ask how much you paid? I have almost pulled the trigger a few times on one of these, the last time being when he had one on ebay. I have been impressed by the sounds I have heard and think they are pretty versatile for a fender style amp.

I'd have to agree. Those knobs look crap. If you're building a Ginger clone you have to draw the line somewhere and that would be in knob selection! Remember also that the cab is not an original Trainwreck cab and is just something knocked up afterwards. I'd be saying to myself that the knobs were a...

Dana,
Now that you point it out, I can see that the red wire running under the board is from the 1K standby junction . I really think you have nailed it!!
Where's that emoticon for the thumbs up????
Cheers
PeteRH

Rhinson, No arguement here regarding the 1 ohm resistor method of checking bias but as you stated many wreck builders want to build a cosmetic clone and therefore these are out. The next best method is the voltage check. the post about one of the ways aiken suggests to do it is a very clever way to ...

Measuring plate current is potentially dangerous!! I would not suggest the transformer shunt method and suggest you read Randall Aikens method and also biasing articles at www.aikenamps.com I can not link direct to the appropriate article but look for this paragraph. The plate current can also be me...

Great job Dana. I have looked at that Ginger photo a dozen times and always took it for granted that the 25watt resistor was the 1K (suedo choke).....not a 125 ohm bias resistor. I never sat down and traced it out but the layout suddenly makes sense!!! Looking at it with blurry eyes, I am guessing: ...

I used a box joint for my pine Liverpool clone cab.....wish I hadn't .
It is probably that strong it will survive a train wreck but it just doesn't look like a Trainwreck.

Hi Moose, I wont be wasting my time special ordering trannies from Phil. I did not realise your trannies were M26 and did not know you were still selling them. You should put them up in the "for sale" area. The difference between M19 and M26 is miniscule. When I last ordered from Phil (quite a while...

A guy could go nuts counting laminations from photos :shock: The end result is I think the laminations on Francesca's 3801 and Bombays 3801 are both 26 ga. (anyone else want to count laminations??) The concensus (not a proven fact) is Stancors were generally M50 for their GP output trannies as it wa...

Thanks for those photos Bombay! I have some info at home where Phil was making them with both M6 or M26(?) for some guys. The laminations on the Heyboer look thinner and I would guess that those are M6. I will check my transformer info after work today and will be counting laminations. Thanks again ...

Comparing the physical dimensions of the Heyboer and the 3801 they seem identical. The 3801 is speced as 35 watt, 6.6K, 150mA max primary DC, 15-8-4 ohm taps....sounds very familiar. Thanks Bombay, Is there anything special about these trannies that you know of? ie. interleaving, grade oriented stee...

Hi Mark, My Heyboer trainwreck clone output tranny has 11415 TW-OT on it. The PT similarly has 11410. I thought this number was just a Heyboer product/production code as all the Stancor OP's I have seen are 4 digits preceded by A. Date codes, product codes, model numbers.....could I be wrong again? ...