The Amp Garage

Can we see your finger joint set up? I can't seem to make them without a certain amount of blow out. Your cuts are very clean.

What do you mean by "edge glued baffle"?
As opposed to backing cleats, or dado?

6061 Aluminum, 0.10" thick. You could easily go to 0.90 for that size chassis and have plenty of strength. Smaller Hammond Chassis can be as thin as 0.40-0.50". Too flimsy for me. The tip is focused, just a generic Berzomatic plumbers style as statorvane mentioned. It's easy not to over heat. Maybe ...

xtian, scoring makes for nice crisp edges. You should try out the Alumiweld sometime. It's super cheap and once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy. Your weld won't break at the joint if you've done a good job. It seems to be as strong as any other part of the plate.

Bend the short panels into place, tucking them inside the overhang of the long panels. Fire up the torch and weld the corners and you'll have yourself a chassis. The last thing I will do is drill holes in the top tabs to accept 1/4" press-in threaded nuts to bolt the chassis to the cabinet. JPEG ima...

Bend the long sides to 90 degrees. I clamped the chassis blank to the base of my band saw with a strong back along the kerf to keep it flat, then simple bent it in to place. It takes a bit of effort, which is why I say you don't have to worry about welding all the bends. Fine tune all the sections o...

Layout the components and cut all the holes. I picked out a piece of maple for the faceplate and drilled it at the same time so the holes would match up. I used Alumiweld from Harbor Freight to weld the first bends. Realistically, you don't need to weld the bends or corners as there is an abundance ...

Lay out the panels and split the lines with your kerf. I assume that the actual length would be in the middle of the kerf but if you want super accurate dimensions, I would recommend doing a mock up bend so you can see how the fold will influence the length. I sized my chassis with a little wiggle r...

If you have a table saw with a blade that will cut aluminum, you can score where your bends will take place, and not need a break to fold the chassis. Here's the blade I have, and the sheet of 0.100" 6061 Aluminum Sheet from McMaster Carr that I will use to lay out the panels. 0.100 is overkill but ...

Agree, cutting trashes even carbide blades fairly quickly. Drill bits as well when drilling for eyelets and turrets.
I use 1/8". As mentioned, be very wary of the dust from machining.

I've gotten G10/FR4 from McMaster-Carr. I don't know how their prices compare to others. Lots of sizes to choose from.

Built a head cab for this amp, yet to be finished (probably just amber shellac) an will use the combo cab for a push pull amp with a little more juice. Yet to be decided.

Thanks Phil

Thanks, and big thanks to pompeiisneaks

Beautiful work