TW clone handle?

[plook]

I'm making a TW Liverpool style amp using heyboer and Edcore transformers and wondering if i should put a leather handle on it or cut some holes in the sides. Any thoughts on this? I don't see too many with handles or holes and wonder how folks manoeuvre them without damaging them.

Also, can anyone give me advice on how to add the 'burnt in' lettering on the wooden panel on the control plate. is there a template i could put over it to burn it.

[redshark]

I've heard that Ken didn't like handles on his wood boxes. They look nice without one but as you said is very hard to be moving the box.
I had been thinking about putting one on top of mine and of course I would choose the brown leather fender tweed style on top of the box. That is what to me would look better.

[plook]

Thanks. Fortunately i have a few of those. i might just go with that.

[M Fowler]

Build or buy a tour case for it. Having a handle is only ease in carrying what about protecting that hardwood from dings?

I know after one gig with my K60 I now have a permanent divot on the side. Lesson use an anvil case and be done.

Mark

[vibratoking]

The handle contributes to the dings, IMO. You grab hold of the handle, walk away, and that nice cab goes swinging to and fro until it makes contact with some foreign object. Anvil cases are nice, but out of my budget. Especially if I want to put every amp in one. Without the handle, I cradle the amp like a baby and lovingly carry it into the venue. I do that with all my heads and combos. Works for me.

[Lonely Raven]

Correction...the unbalanced cabinet goes swinging to and fro.

I didn't like a handle on the top. I either put them on the side, or just grab it through the back (I don't have a back cover on mine). I like the anvil idea best, though I don't gig so it's a moot point.

[gearhead]

Haven't done it on mine, but if I were to put a handle on, it would be inside the box. Attach a handle-length, rectangular block inside the backside upper lip. Sized just right so the back of your palm is on the top of the cab, with your fingers wrapped around the block.

[rawnster]

I got tired of carrying it like a baby. Added the handle, and so glad I did. I think these heads are silly not to have one...but that's just me. Economy of motion and energy.

[IMG:725:435]http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb15 ... /photo.jpg[/img]
[IMG:600:620]http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb15 ... photo2.jpg[/img]

[plook]

Here is another consideration i have only just thought of after looking at that fine finger-jointed cabinet. Mine is mitred and biscuit jointed. Would that be strong enough to hold the weight when hoisted by a handle on top?

[selloutrr]

the traditional style of labeling is called pyrography. The art of drawing on wood by the act of burning. I've tried to do it, and just destroyed everything I've worked on. If you live where people are artsy it might be worth asking around and having it out sourced. Somethings community centers offer this type of art for senior citizens.

[plook]

Thanks for the pyrography info. I know for a fact that i too would destroy the bubinga face if i attempted it without any sort of template. I will look around and see if there is anyone who can do it. i do know a wood carver.

[paulster]

I like those same leather handles Rawnster posted the pics of. They're comfortable, durable, look good, and are solidly bolted to the cabinet so they give you a bit of control over it when carrying it which is good on a real wood cabinet.

[M Fowler]

Those handles are nice but I stack amps so unless the next amp has tall feet there is usually a problem. I use 1 inch feet and Fender/Marshall low profile handles.

I realize most people won't have such a problem but just pointing it out.

Mark

[selloutrr]

+1 for the ATA case

5/8" or 3/4" flight approved runs ~ $350

1/4" as low as ~$100

If you aren't shipping it build your own out of a sheet of plywood and high density foam. ~$50

Let the amp rest in the tray with a pull off lid. If you are really hip you would include a storage compartment for cables, tubes, etc.

you can also buy the materials used to make your own lifght approved ATA and save the labor, which makes up most of the cost.

[Roe]

since the back is open they are quite easy to grap except for the weight. I used heavy oak. the wood weights more than the iron