Starting my Wreck board and I have a question

[Reeltarded]

I use RG59 sometimes. That same stuff.

[Bob S]

RG59 can also be used to strangle a cat.
Oops - sorry.

[lgehrig4]

Is this it?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062643
I would use it in a pinch. Twist the center conductors like you said before and move forward. You can always go back and retrofit later. That's half the fun with this hobby/obsession...
Enjoy, but be careful.
D

Thats the stuff

[lgehrig4]

I forgot I had George L cable from my pedboard. I think this will work perfectly. Let me know if this is wired correctly. I added the ground which I will connect to one of the board lifts.

[IMG:800:600]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e390/lgehrig4/P1040147_zps3461e1d7.jpg[/img]


The only thing at this point that I am unsure of is the impedence switch. Besides the layout is there a clearer photo somewhere that shows all the connections?

[cbass]

I don't think you'll need the ground lug unless you aare gonna isolate that jack.

[lgehrig4]

I don't think you'll need the ground lug unless you aare gonna isolate that jack.

There's a thread here somewhere where some( Paul ruby being one) claim grounding to the chassis alone is not safe. I figured it can't hurt to add the ground wire.

Here's the quote:
"It is a serious safety risk to omit a ground wire from the input jack to electrical ground. (And also in the connection from electrical ground to the chassis if relevant to the particular ground scheme chosen.) The physical connection of the input jack to the chassis should NEVER be the only electrical connection of guitar-chord-shield to you chassis and, ultimately, Earth ground"

What do you mean by isolate the jack?

[lgehrig4]

Ok, final plea for information and I'm done

I have the same impedence switch as suggested in the BOM but my common lugs are not in the same position as the layout. I have 1/7, 2/6 and 3/5 jumped, but just need reassurance as to which two common (rear) lugs to jump. These would be located on positions 1,5 and 9.

On the layout these lugs are located and jumped between positions 1 & 7. My gut tells me to jump 1/9 but I'm not trusting my gut on this one.

I promise this is the last one

[Colossal]

If you must use that Lorlin switch to get as close to a true clone as you can, well ok, but they make something simple unnecessarily hard. Here is a much better alternative:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK ... jwMfZJo%3d

[lgehrig4]

Thanks but I want to complete it this weekend. I only bought the switch because I was following the BOM.

Anyway, I think I got it. By jumping 5/9 I was able to get a close circuit (not sure what you call it) with my meter on the 4/8/16 lugs individually while the other two read as open.

For some reason when I jumped 1/5 I would get a close reading on both the 4/16 lugs at the same time on one of the switch settings.

So unless my reasoning is off I should be good to go!

[cbass]

I don't think you'll need the ground lug unless you aare gonna isolate that jack.

What do you mean by isolate the jack?

Isolate the input jack sleeve from the chassis with nylon washers.

[lgehrig4]

Finished! Well almost. I'm waiting for my faceplate before I install the light. I opted for a jewel light and it's pretty big and a PIA to get in and out so I only want to do it once. In the meantime I'll go over all the solder joints and make sure I have everything right. I need a little break from this anyway.

[IMG:800:600]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e390/lgehrig4/P1040149_zpsaf16a3d8.jpg[/img]

[IMG:800:600]http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e390/lgehrig4/P1040150_zps95107b89.jpg[/img]