Wire

geetarpicker · Post by **geetarpicker** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:04 pm

My original TWs have solid core 20 gauge for the signal and B+ wiring.

Littlewyan · Post by **Littlewyan** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:19 pm

O ok I don't know where I got 18AWG from.

Glen I believe I read in another post that you found replacing the wire in one of your clones changed the tone slightly, what did you find exactly?

RJ Guitars · Post by **RJ Guitars** » Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:20 pm

To the best of my knowledge... For the heaters 18awg stranded and 20awg solid for the signal wires

Littlewyan · Post by **Littlewyan** » Sat Nov 22, 2014 3:03 pm

How do we get away with using 300V wire in the Express? As it only gets down to about 300V on the HT for the first gain stage. I want to rewire my Express with the correct wire but am concerned about the voltage rating.

RJ do I recall you mentioning that the wire you have has a higher voltage rating?

RJ Guitars · Post by **RJ Guitars** » Sat Nov 22, 2014 4:07 pm

Littlewyan wrote:How do we get away with using 300V wire in the Express

It's like going 90mph on the freeway... it's above the specified limit but not above the technical limit. Most manufacturers allow a huge safety factor so I suspect 300v wire is never even challenged... interesting side discussion might be whether that is an AC or DC rating and/or why that matters? What about sub-RF and RF frequencies?

Littlewyan wrote:... RJ do I recall you mentioning that the wire you have has a higher voltage rating?

Yes, I use 1000v rated wire. I believe that the actual wire itself is fundamentally equivalent of the lower voltage wire (solid copper is solid copper) but it is the thickness of the PVC insulator that is significant in the rating.

Littlewyan · Post by **Littlewyan** » Sat Nov 22, 2014 4:33 pm

I think you're right about the voltage rating. I have heard of voltage appearing on the wire insulation if the rating is too low, not sure how much voltage would appear though.

Did you receive my email about a quote for the wire?

geetarpicker · Post by **geetarpicker** » Sat Nov 22, 2014 5:47 pm

The original TWs used 1000v wire. A bit hard to find, and though I don't have proof IMHO the stuff Ken used was old NOS wire even when he used it. Point is I think the stuff he preferred was already on the way out (if not already discontinued) even when he was buying it. There is some stuff on the current market that is very similar, though the insulation has been changed a bit.

Littlewyan · Post by **Littlewyan** » Sat Nov 22, 2014 7:00 pm

I'm really struggling to find 20AWG Solid PVC wire. Certainly cant find any here in England. Its all 22AWG with thin insulation that breaks if you go near it with pliers. Even smooth nose pliers leave marks! I'm hoping RJ can hook me up with some of his 20AWG wire.

Where did you find your non-irradiated wire Glen?

RJ Guitars · Post by **RJ Guitars** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 1:35 am

Littlewyan wrote:I'm really struggling to find 20AWG Solid PVC wire. Certainly cant find any here in England. Its all 22AWG with thin insulation that breaks if you go near it with pliers. Even smooth nose pliers leave marks! I'm hoping RJ can hook me up with some of his 20AWG wire.

Where did you find your non-irradiated wire Glen?

PM Sent... I've literally got miles of this stuff in all the right colors and I've got you covered!

The cool thing about US Mil-Spec parts is that the spec doesn't change with time, technology, or manufacturer. Because technology has moved forward most of the world doesn't especially value this wire... however, the US military and a relatively small amp building community does. Fortunately it's still in production and generally available in large quantities.

My 2 cents - it's not especially good wire for soldered assemblies because that PVC melting point is so low (80C) and I suspect whatever use the US military has/had for it involved clamping it under a screw... my guess. For the dedicated Wreck style amp builder it just requires a little finesse and planning to solder it. It is really nice to work with otherwise because it stays where you put it.

David Root · Post by **David Root** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 1:56 am

I'll try skinning it back a bit more than with Teflon wire and putting a hemostatic scissor clamp on the wire between the insulation and the soldering point.
I use them all the time with diodes & regulators. Haven't burned one out yet.

Littlewyan · Post by **Littlewyan** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 8:53 am

I'll be using it with turrets as well which wont help. I guess i'll have to fill the turret with solder, then drop the wire in and get out of there. I did have similar issues with the wire I'm using at the moment, when soldering it the insulation burned off so easily.

stuben · Post by **stuben** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 3:28 pm

Took a close look at some transformer lead wire from a power transformer high voltage lead. It is rated for 1000V at 90C, or 600V at 105C! This is printed on the wire along with style 1032
It is insulation thickness and type along with operating temperature range determines the voltage rating.

Since Mr. Fischer built his amps the correct way, that is with tubes up, unlike Fender and many others, where the chassis hangs upside down, the inside of the chassis would stay much cooler, which has many benefits in the long run.

It is for this reason that one could "get away" with using 300V wire.

22ga. wire would be quite adequate for everything except heater wiring and speaker leads. Since it can handle 2.4 amps of current we are well within a safe range, since only a few hundred milliamps flows through the rest of the amp. Perhaps Ken used 20 ga. for it's mechanical properties.

Perhaps Ken bought wire, which he knew sounded good, in bulk that was being discontinued at closeout prices to save on costs. We should be asking ourselves what would he be using today?

RJ Guitars · Post by **RJ Guitars** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 3:46 pm

stuben wrote:...We should be asking ourselves what would he be using today?

Whatever he had around... that was his MO. I would bet you dollars to donuts that he could have made an amp using nothing but old paperclips for wire and it would have sounded awesome!

and a kind welcome to the TAG forum!

stuben · Post by **stuben** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:01 pm

Thanks RJ! I've been a lurker here for at least a decade. Thought it was about time I started contributing to this great community which has helped me out so much over the years.

Littlewyan · Post by **Littlewyan** » Sun Nov 23, 2014 5:16 pm

Very informative. I do wonder what wire/capacitors/valves Ken would have used today. Also my reason for moving to 20AWG wire is the insulation breaks so easily on the 22AWG stuff I've got, little bends in the wire really show and it just looks untidy and doesn't stay in place that well due to it being so thin.

Might buy enough wire off RJ for two wrecks, am thinking about building another but this time a proper clone

.

Edit: By the way, I was looking at pics of Francesca the other night and the heater wiring was 20AWG not 18AWG. Stated it on the wire. Although I know Ken has used different heater wiring in certain wrecks so maybe he just used what was available for the heaters, hence why some may have used 18AWG wire.

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