TW Chassis + Combo Cab

[james21789]

It really isn't that hard to do. I have a blank chassis made for mine at a local sheetmetal shop to fit the 2x 12 or 1x 12 Marshall style combo cabinets.

What sort of tools do I need to drill the holes myself? Also what thickness should the metal be. Aluminum I'm guessing?

Thanks,

-j

[M Fowler]

I use various sized step bits from my local Harbor Freight.

[selloutrr]

punches make the cleanest holes. greenlie and generic harbor frieght

but aluminum is so soft a step bit will make most of your holes.

For the best result make sure you put a board under the area you are drilling to prevent the metal from warping while you drill.

mark out all your holes with a pencil or grease pencil.

use a punch to mark your holes and give the drill bit a place to bite.

drill press works the best, though a hand drill can work if you are very careful. start small make the hole and increase the bit size slowly.

I don't have the exact material thickness so i'll let someone else chime you in so i don't stear you wrong.

[UR12]

Not sure about guage numbers but 1/16 to 3/32 thickness is all you need

[gearhead]

I prefer the Greenlee stepper drill bits; have two cutting edges vice one. They have two that will make about every hole size you need.

Aluminum tapping fluid is a must!

[rawnster]

I'm a little late to this show, but you can also do an ala-matchless style cab like the few I've done with the rocket circuit.

[img:800:600]http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb15 ... eplate.jpg[/img]
[img:800:653]http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb15 ... ate7-1.jpg[/img]
[img:800:671]http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb15 ... plate4.jpg[/img]
[img1009]http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb15 ... umneo4.jpg[/img]
[img:800:677]http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb15 ... humneo.jpg[/img]
[img:800:600]http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb15 ... umneo3.jpg[/img]

[Ken Moon]

Most aluminum chassis are between .050 and .090 thick - I like at least .080, so it will support the transformers securely.

The Hammond chassis are usually .050, and chassis sold by Watts Tube Audio (aka turretboards.com), among others, are .090. Their 17.5 x 8 x 2.5 inch blank chassis sells for $36, and is a good size for a TW.

You can also get pre-drilled TW chassis, either on eBay or probably from others on this site. I think they run about 100 bucks, and are worth it if you only need one chassis and don't want to spend $75-$100 for Unibits.

The Unibit step bit is the way to go for large holes. You'll need one that goes up to 1-1/8" for octal tube socket holes. Irwin brand Unibits are available at home centers, but you may have to mail-order the larger sized ones if you can't find one in stock at HD or Lowes.

Kerosene is all you need for cutting fluid - works as well as any fancy cutting oil, and is cheap and easy to find. I put some in a spray bottle and spray the bit and the hole periodically while cutting.

[james21789]

I'm a little late to this show, but you can also do an ala-matchless style cab like the few I've done with the rocket circuit.

That a fine looking build. Would you happen to have any layouts of the chassis or cabinet? I think I would prefer the knobs on the front rather than in the rear facing up.

-j

[rawnster]

I'm a little late to this show, but you can also do an ala-matchless style cab like the few I've done with the rocket circuit.

That a fine looking build. Would you happen to have any layouts of the chassis or cabinet? I think I would prefer the knobs on the front rather than in the rear facing up.

-j

Below is a layout that Normster did a while back. It's the big bottle version of the rocket with verb. Also is a gut shot of one of mine. Basically just take the regular Rocket layout that Ron Worley did in the files section and flip it.