Building a Rocket - Layout Check for group build

Structo · Post by **Structo** » Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:00 pm

Looks nice RJ.
So no grommets on the tranny leads?

RJ Guitars · Post by **RJ Guitars** » Mon Jun 09, 2008 12:10 am

Fischerman wrote:
It hurts whether it's metal or just a mere flesh wound.

NEET

sir rj

jeffkt · Post by **jeffkt** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:11 am

The rocket that I saw used the same power trans as the Express/Liverpool. There is no 5v winding on the trans. I owned an Express back in the 80's. It has been a long time, I hope my memory is still good! Ken added a 5v trans. for the GZ35/5AR4. I think there was a 120 ohm 25 watt resistor for the choke. I did find a note I made about this. I am not 100% about this, just 99%

jeffkt · Post by **jeffkt** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:28 am

GZ34
sorry for the typo.It's been a long day.

RJ Guitars · Post by **RJ Guitars** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:56 am

jeffkt wrote:The rocket that I saw used the same power trans as the Express/Liverpool. There is no 5v winding on the trans. I owned an Express back in the 80's. It has been a long time, I hope my memory is still good! Ken added a 5v trans. for the GZ35/5AR4. I think there was a 120 ohm 25 watt resistor for the choke. I did find a note I made about this. I am not 100% about this, just 99%

Jeff, that is pretty cool info... we are working from a few limited pieces of info, but what seems to be pretty good information. I have a picture of some of the internals of a Rocket, but it doesn't show the power supply. The only external photo of the back of one of these that I've found is from Dave Funks web site... an amp called Malou that he apparently finished for Trainwreck. The Malou amp appears to have a choke.... I'm a bit intrigued by your info.

I'd be curious of anything additional your old note says and helps us see this amp a little more clearly. DO you recall if that original power tranny was a Pacific?

Thanks for your input.

rj

jeffkt · Post by **jeffkt** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:25 am

The power and output were from pacific. No 5 volt winding.

Fischerman · Post by **Fischerman** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 11:35 am

The rocket that I saw used the same power trans as the Express/Liverpool. There is no 5v winding on the trans. I owned an Express back in the 80's. It has been a long time, I hope my memory is still good! Ken added a 5v trans. for the GZ35/5AR4. I think there was a 120 ohm 25 watt resistor for the choke. I did find a note I made about this. I am not 100% about this, just 99%

Somebody else has sort of surmised that this might the case. I can't remember who it was but they said that they thought it was the same power/output trannies and as such the 'extra' tranny-looking-thing (now there's a bad mental image

) was actually a tranny for the 5vac heaters for the GZ34 instead of the choke. Looking at the top of the chassis it would look the same either way.

jeffkt · Post by **jeffkt** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 2:54 am

I am not trying to confuse anyone but I had a flash back of sorts. There might have been a choke mounted inside the chassis that measured 120 ohms. Can anyone straighten me out? Iam starting to confuse myself!!!!

Fischerman · Post by **Fischerman** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 11:39 am

So no grommets on the tranny leads?

These Heyboers have the bottom of the endbells flush with the mounting feet...so when bolted to the chassis the endbell is right up against the chassis...there's just not any room for the grommet to protrude up from the chassis. I tried...and tried...but in the end I decided that with the hole enlarged enough and with totally smooth edges it should be OK. If you want you could put some heat shrink on the wires right there where they enter the chassis...I did that on my Express.

RJ Guitars · Post by **RJ Guitars** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 12:52 pm

Fischerman wrote:
So no grommets on the tranny leads?
These Heyboers have the bottom of the endbells flush with the mounting feet...so when bolted to the chassis the endbell is right up against the chassis...there's just not any room for the grommet to protrude up from the chassis. I tried...and tried...but in the end I decided that with the hole enlarged enough and with totally smooth edges it should be OK. If you want you could put some heat shrink on the wires right there where they enter the chassis...I did that on my Express.

Structo - sorry for the slow reply... I took a nice photo when I saw your question but hadn't had time to put it up yet.

Fisch said it well - That PT end bell goes all the way down to the chassis. All the wires on the Heyboer go through this one side so I really opened up the hole and made lots of room for clearance.

As you can see, I added grommets for the Output wires.

rj

Ron Worley · Post by **Ron Worley** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 12:59 pm

Guys-

After some extensive detective work and artwork coordination with the immensely talented Dr Hulsey, we managed to produce a Rocket Layout and schematic based on real "forensic" data regarding how the amp is really laid out.

I have deposited it in the TW Files section, and hopefully you will find it helpful if you are considering a replica build.

Ron

UR12 · Post by **UR12** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 1:08 pm

Ron Worley wrote:Guys-

After some extensive detective work and artwork coordination with the immensely talented Dr Hulsey, we managed to produce a Rocket Layout and schematic based on real "forensic" data regarding how the amp is really laid out.

I have deposited it in the TW Files section, and hopefully you will find it helpful if you are considering a replica build.

Ron

The 1k screen resistors need to be changed to 100 ohms

Lonely Raven · Post by **Lonely Raven** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 1:23 pm

Ron, you and the Doc ROCK! You two are great friends to have in these forums!

Now if I can just drum up the money for parts so I can start on my build!

angelodp · Post by **angelodp** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 2:05 am

What is the technique for the stack o caps. Do you guys use silicone on the bottom of the stack and in between?

ange

drhulsey · Post by **drhulsey** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 2:26 am

angelodp wrote:What is the technique for the stack o caps...

Ange, anything that will stand the heat and stick 'em together can be used. I used hot glue to hold them together and used the Allynmey technique of using a cable tie to hold them to the chassis. Some silicone compounds evidently put off vapors you don't want to bottle up in the chassis, but letting it sit open and cure may eliminate problems. Dana has proved that you can simplify the cap arrangement with JJ cap cans without a sacrifice in tone. Check out some of his recent pics on this forum. Unless you're trying to build a replica amp, the cap cans are the shiznit

The Amp Garage

Building a Rocket - Layout Check for group build

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Re: Building a Rocket - Layout Check for group build

Re: Building a Rocket - Layout Check for group build

Re: Building a Rocket - Layout Check for group build

Re: Building a Rocket - Layout Check for group build

Re: Building a Rocket - Layout Check for group build

Re: Building a Rocket - Layout Check for group build

Stack o caps

Re: Stack o caps