Centre post on Marshall 4X12” cabs?

[Mark]

I had a friend drop in his old Marshall cab for a rewire, and I found fleece cloth wrapped around the post. I thought that is there to stop vibration. Sure enough the post was loose, I took the post out and with the help of a friend we replaced the staples with screws and glue. It’s quite solid now, I hadn’t intended to put a screw into the back baffle (fibreboard, not real wood) but he assured me that the screw would stop any possibility of the post vibrating against the back of the baffle.

It seems like a good thing and don’t know why Marshall doesn’t do it, any thoughts on the matter?

Thanks for your time.

[TUBEDUDE]

Good idea. Fiberboard glued to end grain. They should have predicted this point of failure.

[Reeltarded]

The cabinets are designed in away that they should be tuned.

I shim the post from a handle hole. The back is marked inside for the position, and I hammer wedges in until I get the similar tight response to match cabinets to each other. The backs of the cabinets is arched out enough to see if you look very close. About 3/8ths in the middle.

[Roe]

I had a friend drop in his old Marshall cab for a rewire, and I found fleece cloth wrapped around the post. I thought that is there to stop vibration. Sure enough the post was loose, I took the post out and with the help of a friend we replaced the staples with screws and glue. It’s quite solid now, I hadn’t intended to put a screw into the back baffle (fibreboard, not real wood) but he assured me that the screw would stop any possibility of the post vibrating against the back of the baffle.

It seems like a good thing and don’t know why Marshall doesn’t do it, any thoughts on the matter?

Thanks for your time.

this is a metal mod that makes for a deader, tighter cab. A bit of resonance is good for rock though

[Mark]

I had a friend drop in his old Marshall cab for a rewire, and I found fleece cloth wrapped around the post. I thought that is there to stop vibration. Sure enough the post was loose, I took the post out and with the help of a friend we replaced the staples with screws and glue. It’s quite solid now, I hadn’t intended to put a screw into the back baffle (fibreboard, not real wood) but he assured me that the screw would stop any possibility of the post vibrating against the back of the baffle.

It seems like a good thing and don’t know why Marshall doesn’t do it, any thoughts on the matter?

Thanks for your time.

this is a metal mod that makes for a deader, thighter cab. A bit of resonance is good for rock though

Thanks for the tip, luckily the screw can always be removed. I will try with and without the centre screw.

[Mark]

The cabinets are designed in away that they should be tuned.

I shim the post from a handle hole. The back is marked inside for the position, and I hammer wedges in until I get the similar tight response to match cabinets to each other. The backs of the cabinets is arched out enough to see if you look very close. About 3/8ths in the middle.

Tuning the cabs has never occurred to me. Did the wedges cause vibration or fall out?

[Reeltarded]

So, the cabinet is sealed and I have a handle pulled out. I have installed a post that fits perfectly. I make .5in wedges and install them from two or three directions. about 1/4in of each adds to the shim depth. The only thing that can move them is age. They shrink.

I have used stepped metal wedges but they do fall out after a cabinet rolls a couple weeks and Highway Star has pounded through it 10 times.

Come at the post from both sides with a wedge until they overlap and it's basically like chock blocks on a jet. No knock, no scrub, no rattle. Full throttle. Big bang.

[Mark]

Thanks Miles.

[Roe]

I had a friend drop in his old Marshall cab for a rewire, and I found fleece cloth wrapped around the post. I thought that is there to stop vibration. Sure enough the post was loose, I took the post out and with the help of a friend we replaced the staples with screws and glue. It’s quite solid now, I hadn’t intended to put a screw into the back baffle (fibreboard, not real wood) but he assured me that the screw would stop any possibility of the post vibrating against the back of the baffle.

It seems like a good thing and don’t know why Marshall doesn’t do it, any thoughts on the matter?

Thanks for your time.

this is a metal mod that makes for a deader, thighter cab. A bit of resonance is good for rock though

Thanks for the tip, luckily the screw can always be removed. I will try with and without the centre screw.

how much it matters depends on how resonant the cab is and whether you hit it with massive bass riffs or not. For classic rock I prefer stock cabs. but metal often calls for stiffer, tighter and deader cabs

[Reeltarded]

Don't be afraid to put some stuffing in there if you are playing faster/tighter things to take the R1 reflection down a couple decibels (or more) as well.

This is another trick of reamp that uses or reveals the potential of the resonance and tuning. With just an average stock cabinet, hamner-on some low notes while adjusting the volume until the internal reflection of the cabinet is equal with the fundamental. It is a little complex to imagine, but if you sit in the floor in front of the cab and ride the rig master volume you can clearly hear the threshold when the reflection comes equal to everything else.

That is how you make insane dirty guitars sound like screaming animals on recordings. A hidden sweet-spot. It is not as loud as you probably imagine!

Maybe it is!

[TUBEDUDE]

Sounds like another path to tinnitus.