pdf64 wrote: ↑Wed Mar 26, 2025 11:49 am
nuke wrote: ↑Wed Mar 26, 2025 5:17 am
To be honest, I went and double checked my two Fluke meters (87-V and a 289). Both are under 2-ohms for the milli-amp range, and well under 1-ohm for the ampere range and the ampere range is sufficiently resolved for 10's of milliamps on both of them. The error would be minimal, even in the Marshall example.
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Kudos for checking.
Which ammeter range socket have you been using to undertake these shunt tests?
Which socket do you think most users would select?
Rather than the 10A socket, I think that it would be intuitive to use a more sensitive range when measuring a few 10s of mA.
It really depends how good your meter is. I think 6-ohms is a hang of a lot of shunt resistance for anything that calls it self a test instrument.

I concede all my DMMs are at least 20 years old, but it seems strange to consider that mid to high end Flukes, intended for electronics tech usage, of that age aren't worthy of being considered a test instrument.
What spec DMM do you think most readers requiring that type of document for guidance would be using?
Would they be likely to be equipped with suitable probe clips and experience necessary to undertake a shunt test safely?
Well, it is incumbent upon the technician to understand the equipment he/she is using and understand its limitations.
I started working on things as a kid when digital multimeters were still expensive and exotic, and the standard high-end equipment was a VTVM, or a FET-Voltmeter, and most of us had at best, a Simpson 260 with 20,000-ohms per volt sensitivity, or more often, a Micronta (Radio Shack) with much worse numbers. I eventually got a Beckman (worth a 40-hour week of pay) LCD digital back in the day.
The "old-man" part of knowing your test equipment is important still today. We've all gotten quite used to even cheap digital meters having very high input impedance and good basic accuracy for voltage. But that may not extended to current, or some of the other functions. Got to read the manual, and if it isn't published, then assume it sucks.
I looked up the manuals for my Fluke meters, the voltage burden in the milliamp range is 1.8mv/ma, which is 1.8-ohms on the milli-amp scale. That is also dependent upon using the correct, specified fuses in the meter. Fluke has a procedure to test the fuses in the manual without opening the case.
I couldn't find the manual for the model you mentioned, perhaps it is just too old to have the manual online.
On the matter of where to set the bias: It is a horseshoes and hand-grenades value for class AB operation. Like I said, plotting the load-lines by first drawing the class-b line, and then the class A line, you can simply use the same slope and move the class-A line up the graph to intercept the class B line. That's actually what is happening when adjusting the bias voltage in a fixed bias circuit.
The bias point in class AB is subjective - we're simply looking to stay in class A until things are "loud enough" that class-B operation and associated distortion is "not noticeable." That holds true for hi-fi and guitar amps. Weirdly enough, very good class-B amplifiers have been built with tubes which provide low-distortion, high-efficiency and very long tube life. (McIntosh with the bi-filar wound transformers for example)
Fender, Marshall, nor Vox ever blessed us with such things.
The advice to bias based on plate dissipation is a
rule of thumb based on the notion that whatever pair (quad, sextet, etc) of tubes was chosen and intended to produce maximum power output.
But in many cases, that may or may-not be true. Consider the ubiquitous Blues Deluxe and Blues Deville amps. Basically, the same amp, one is 36 watts, the other is 58 watts, only substantial difference is the B+ and screen supply of about 420v vs. 475 volts. The latter is an example of squeezing the maximum power out of the 6L6GC pair, the other is a more conservative approach. If one were to set 75% of plate dissipation (22.5 watts of idle) in both you'd be looking at 55ma and 47ma. Maybe a fair number for the 60-watt amp, but maybe not necessary for the lower-power 40-watt amp. Perhaps only 15 watts (36ma) of idle is a decent target for the lower-power application. You save yourself some heat, extend the tube life and reduce stress on the transformers while getting good audio performance. (in actual practice, Fender ran these at lower current, yet they barbecue the EL84s in the Blues Junior).
Just something to consider. If you're designing, plot those load lines and understand where you're operating.