switching the slope and mid cap
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- phsyconoodler
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Re: switching the slope and mid cap
what about paralleling a larger value cap with the bass cap like Fender did on their bassman AB165 with a deep switch?
so the bass cap is .1uf,so you parallel another .1uf cap for a deep control.
I'm going to try this on a build I have on the bench and report back.
so the bass cap is .1uf,so you parallel another .1uf cap for a deep control.
I'm going to try this on a build I have on the bench and report back.
Crystal latice or vacuum,that is the question.
- phsyconoodler
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Re: switching the slope and mid cap
Ok,what I found was when the cap is added in parallel with one end grounded like an AB165,it thins the tone quite a bit.Removing the grounded end from ground makes the tone revert back to normal.So what needs to be done is increase the bass and maybe the mid caps to a more Fendery value or maybe a bit more,say .1uf or so and then simply switch in the extra cap to ground to get the BEFORE tone.Obviously it's easier to use the same value caps so the results are predictable.
Crystal latice or vacuum,that is the question.
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Re: switching the slope and mid cap
I recently did the 100k resistor plus 47n mid cap on a switch.phsyconoodler wrote:Ok,what I found was when the cap is added in parallel with one end grounded like an AB165,it thins the tone quite a bit.Removing the grounded end from ground makes the tone revert back to normal.So what needs to be done is increase the bass and maybe the mid caps to a more Fendery value or maybe a bit more,say .1uf or so and then simply switch in the extra cap to ground to get the BEFORE tone.Obviously it's easier to use the same value caps so the results are predictable.
Paralled the 150k with a 330k and the 10n mid with a 33n. Sounds nice with a strat.
Diva or not? - Respect for Mr. D's work....)
Re: switching the slope and mid cap
As you sort of discovered, what the "Deep" switch did was DISCONNECT the second cap. They screwed up the tone, then put in a switch to fix it again and called it a feature.phsyconoodler wrote:what about paralleling a larger value cap with the bass cap like Fender did on their bassman AB165 with a deep switch?
so the bass cap is .1uf,so you parallel another .1uf cap for a deep control.
I'm going to try this on a build I have on the bench and report back.

- phsyconoodler
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Re: switching the slope and mid cap
Yes indeed.I'm also going to try the parallel cap deep as well,I bet it will be better.They both accomplish the same thing,the latter being a simpler approach.
With the right cap selection there need not be any 'tone screw-up'.
With the right cap selection there need not be any 'tone screw-up'.
Crystal latice or vacuum,that is the question.
Re: switching the slope and mid cap
Yea, that was exactly my first intention. With the "slope-poti" I´m not so happy, because I`m bringing an other cap (0,1) to the circuity. I´am now mor bassy than before and evan wanted. The mid is allready on the switch, the second half of this switch will get the 330k. At the beginning I was only afraid of eventually popping. A slope pot is interesting but for my needs not neccessary.bluesfendermanblues wrote: Paralled the 150k with a 330k and the 10n mid with a 33n. Sounds nice with a strat.
Best
Hans-Jörg
- phsyconoodler
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Re: switching the slope and mid cap
I tried paralleling a cap and it did virtually nothing.Now parallel a cap across the treble cap and there is a huge difference.Paralleling ANY of the other caps did pretty much nothing at all.
Structo,
I did exactly as your diagram showed and it did nothing at all.Tried from .05uf to .1uf.Nothing at all.
Structo,
I did exactly as your diagram showed and it did nothing at all.Tried from .05uf to .1uf.Nothing at all.
Crystal latice or vacuum,that is the question.
- phsyconoodler
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Re: switching the slope and mid cap
i think maybe switching preamp cathode bypass caps would be a good idea for humbucker/strat love.
Crystal latice or vacuum,that is the question.
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Bass cut
That`s what we did w/Diaz for a bass CUT, worked VERY well with the cut ON< and the mid boost on, all Hell breaks loose! lol!phsyconoodler wrote:Ok,what I found was when the cap is added in parallel with one end grounded like an AB165,it thins the tone quite a bit.Removing the grounded end from ground makes the tone revert back to normal.So what needs to be done is increase the bass and maybe the mid caps to a more Fendery value or maybe a bit more,say .1uf or so and then simply switch in the extra cap to ground to get the BEFORE tone.Obviously it's easier to use the same value caps so the results are predictable.
jim@Omega
Re: switching the slope and mid cap
.bluesfendermanblues wrote:I recently did the 100k resistor plus 47n mid cap on a switch.phsyconoodler wrote:Ok,what I found was when the cap is added in parallel with one end grounded like an AB165,it thins the tone quite a bit.Removing the grounded end from ground makes the tone revert back to normal.So what needs to be done is increase the bass and maybe the mid caps to a more Fendery value or maybe a bit more,say .1uf or so and then simply switch in the extra cap to ground to get the BEFORE tone.Obviously it's easier to use the same value caps so the results are predictable.
Paralled the 150k with a 330k and the 10n mid with a 33n. Sounds nice with a strat.
Hi,
I tryed now the same (330k on one side of the switch and a 47n on the other side. it parallels the 150k slope and mid cap at once. Greate, no plopping of the DC and a good way to switch between SC and HB ( if neccessary).
The swith is inside of the cab on top of the chassis bysiede V1. A good place for useing from the back.
Hans-Jörg
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Re: switching the slope and mid cap
Great you found it usefull - so are you through modding the amphans-jörg wrote:.bluesfendermanblues wrote:I recently did the 100k resistor plus 47n mid cap on a switch.phsyconoodler wrote:Ok,what I found was when the cap is added in parallel with one end grounded like an AB165,it thins the tone quite a bit.Removing the grounded end from ground makes the tone revert back to normal.So what needs to be done is increase the bass and maybe the mid caps to a more Fendery value or maybe a bit more,say .1uf or so and then simply switch in the extra cap to ground to get the BEFORE tone.Obviously it's easier to use the same value caps so the results are predictable.
Paralled the 150k with a 330k and the 10n mid with a 33n. Sounds nice with a strat.
Hi,
I tryed now the same (330k on one side of the switch and a 47n on the other side. it parallels the 150k slope and mid cap at once. Greate, no plopping of the DC and a good way to switch between SC and HB ( if neccessary).
The swith is inside of the cab on top of the chassis bysiede V1. A good place for useing from the back.
Hans-Jörg

Just kidding - this is a lifelong ongoing project for must of us
Diva or not? - Respect for Mr. D's work....)
Re: switching the slope and mid cap
An old thread comes back to life!Structo wrote:Something I did on my D'lite amp was to have switchable mid caps.
[img:189:703]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_MHnI ... od%201.JPG[/img]
When the switch is open the .01uf cap is the mid cap.
When the switch is closed the .01uf and .05uf cap are paralleled for a .06uf total.
Tom-
I like this idea, and had come to the point of doing this on my own D'Lite build.
Do you have a 250K or 100K mid pot?
Did you feel the need to change that by paralleling a resitor or such, a la a thread by Mark:
http://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... le+mid+cap
or did you just switch the cap?
Thanks as always-your input has been most valuable to me.
George
Last edited by Teleguy61 on Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: switching the slope and mid cap
I have a Holland Li'll Jimi that has this arrangement and it works very well in deed for tuning in midrange response for S/C or H/B guitars.Firestorm wrote:In a slightly different vein: some of Mike Holland's amps had a Sweep control, a variable slope resistor, designed as way to match tone stack frequency response to different pickups. He blocked DC first with a large cap -- maybe .047 or .1 -- then set up the tone stack as usual, except the slope resistor was a pot. Kind of interesting.
Re: switching the slope and mid cap
Hi George,
I just have a switch on the mid cap mod.
And yes I did install a 250K mid pot.
I just have a switch on the mid cap mod.
And yes I did install a 250K mid pot.
Tom
Don't let that smoke out!
Don't let that smoke out!