Raoul Duke wrote: ↑Sat Nov 18, 2023 3:28 pm
This 22M off the J/R switch to the treble pot Ian? I put it there because I was following Tony’s layout; but if it works better on the relay I can certainly move it.
Yes. It's electronically exactly the same so I don't think it will work better.. but it definitely looks better
PS board done. I used 1/8” G10 for this and the main board. Pretty surprised by how tough this stuff was to cut on my chop saw. Must be pretty rugged. Probably could have used 1/16”. Next time…
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Oops, forgot to add my implementation of the LNFB switch also (hopefully correctly). I figure if it comes out, the hole won’t be so obvious mounted under vs the back panel. Kept the runs more direct. Also decided to forego the exterior OD trim and also stick with the 100k trimmer value on the board. Trying to keep it true to the original as suggested.
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Raoul Duke wrote: ↑Sun Nov 19, 2023 1:43 am
Oops, forgot to add my implementation of the LNFB switch also (hopefully correctly). I figure if it comes out, the hole won’t be so obvious mounted under vs the back panel. Kept the runs more direct. Also decided to forego the exterior OD trim and also stick with the 100k trimmer value on the board. Trying to keep it true to the original as suggested.
Looks good. It will be interesting to see if it pops (that may not be a big deal if you only switch it occasionally), and in what you think of the tonal effect.
Thanks Martin!
In the hopes of me learning something (which I do with every post/reply); what would make it pop and how can I prevent that if possible?
Thanks again!
You have a cap that is switched in and out connected to the grid and plate. When it charges or discharges it might produce a pulse that will be sent through the signal path. See if it is a problem first, then there are a couple of things might be tried to make it quiet.
From what I can see on others’ builds, the many layouts I look at, and what I’ve read - the two green wires can go to either of the “AC in” on the relay/LED board and the green/yellow (center tap?) is clipped/capped/tucked out of the way, correct?
Also, is it the same with the 166s’ primaries; i.e. either can go to the main switch and/or the IEC?
Raoul Duke wrote: ↑Mon Nov 20, 2023 8:40 pm...the two green wires can go to either of the “AC in” on the relay/LED board and the green/yellow (center tap?) is clipped/capped/tucked out of the way, correct?
Also, is it the same with the 166s’ primaries; i.e. either can go to the main switch and/or the IEC?
Working with co-ax is different than I’m used to, but I think I actually enjoy getting lost in crafting the cables. Figured I’d do some of the under-board type stuff and just go slow figuring out the lengths, bends, heat shrink, grounds etc. hoping to become more familiar with its’ idiosyncrasies.
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Great, challenging learning experience that I wouldn’t have even considered if not for seeing how awesome TAG folks are with guiding us “NEMFs” through our projects, lol.
So cruising around with “search” because I thought I saw a simplified LED wiring scheme and sure enough found Marcus’ diagram. One quick question:
Does the LED share the eyelet with the footswitch wire that will be there as well? It would seem so to me, but I wanted to be sure. My understanding is that the limiting resistor on the board serves the LED in this setup - so nothing needs to be added?
Thanks in advance!
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The panel LED needs a current limiting resistor, where the full 12V can be sent to the relay coils and to the footswitch jack. The current limiting resistors for the footswitch LEDs are in the footswitch.
martin manning wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2023 3:18 am
The panel LED needs a current limiting resistor, where the full 12V can be sent to the relay coils and to the footswitch jack. The current limiting resistors for the footswitch LEDs are in the footswitch.
Which, if I might add, is not the best of ideas as it would mean that the + and - connections for the footswitch at the back panel wouldn't have any load. So if anything were to get short-circuited from that point on out -- i.e., towards the footswitch -- as could be the case of plugging in an improperly wired footswitch, or the footswitch cable getting damaged (e.g., because someone rolls their gear cart over it) and shorting the + and - wires, something would fry inside the amp. If, however, the (properly sized) limiting resistors are placed at the board, shorting the + and - downstream would just mean the resistors would get hot.
