Starting to populate the chassis....

[Dragon1]

Ok, stripped out all the wiring, been reading and video watching and will start take-two shortly.
Will check all the resistors making sure they're the correct ones, easy to get mixed up.....so many choices...
Bought good PVC covered 20gauge wire...last stuff was cheap rubber covered that melted when soldered.
Bought the parts that go in the Skyliner as opposed to the #124. Should still be a great amp.
First thing to do is use my solder sucker to heat up and clean all the solder stuff off the terminals so the new stuff solders good and clean.
I like buying from Tube Depot, they put each component in its own bag and labels it fully, All the others it goes into one bag and you got to figure it out.
Brian

[martin manning]

Bought the parts that go in the Skyliner as opposed to the #124. Should still be a great amp

No doubt, the #124 Skyliner version (that is what you mean to say, I think) is a great amp.
The schematic and layout are here, https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... 006#p55006
with the first schematic being the one you want to follow (not the 1984 version). As you are already aware, the chassis and board set you have isn't exactly like the layout, but you can still reproduce the schematic. One detail to note is that the 345k trimmer (actually a modified 500k) feeding the first OD stage is often changed to a 100k, like the #102 and #183.

[Dragon1]

Yes, that's what I meant to say and yes, I have that schematic, enlarged and ready to go. I've already got the 345k trimmer on the board. Let's see what it's like before I see if I want to switch it with a 100k.
Thanks for the link and info.
Brian

[ijedouglas]

Yes, that's what I meant to say and yes, I have that schematic, enlarged and ready to go. I've already got the 345k trimmer on the board. Let's see what it's like before I see if I want to switch it with a 100k.
Thanks for the link and info.
Brian

If you play mostly single coils I think you'll love the bigger trimmer. It also works well for humbuckers.

[GAStan]

Will check all the resistors making sure they're the correct ones, easy to get mixed up.....so many choices...

Brian, I received my electronics training in the '80's. I STILL verify each and every resistor with my meter prior to installing it because I suck at reading the color codes-its the multiplier that gets me from time to time.

I like that Tube depot does that too but they have sent me the wrong resistors before...caught it with my meter. Sent them a pic and they quickly sent the correct ones, I'm really impressed with their customer service. But I use Antique Electronic Supply too because their selection is greater.

[Dragon1]

So I'm starting my redo, checking my resister ohms and stuff. I did find a couple that were wrong and a couple that were off a little. I'm fixing those. I'm checking continuity and voltages as I go. Got the heaters wired and the power transformer is putting out correct voltages. LED is 120 Volt, so I wired it off the power switch, it works.
So I have a question. Using this board and this transformer The AC bias tap should be 60VAC, transformer puts out 45vac. Is this enough voltage or do I need to do something different to get 60 volts?
As always, Thank you, Brain

[martin manning]

So I have a question. Using this board and this transformer The AC bias tap should be 60VAC, transformer puts out 45vac. Is this enough voltage or do I need to do something different to get 60 volts?

Just have to reduce the 3k9 resistor to something smaller, maybe 470 ohms or so.

[Dragon1]

That's sounds easy, thank you, Brian

[martin manning]

So I have a question. Using this board and this transformer The AC bias tap should be 60VAC, transformer puts out 45vac. Is this enough voltage or do I need to do something different to get 60 volts?

Just have to reduce the 3k9 resistor to something smaller, maybe 470 ohms or so.

Correction, 47 to 100 ohms should get you in the right range.

[Dragon1]

OK, I'll go with that. Brian

[BrianL]

Wow, took two weeks off and got locked out of my account. Thanks to Admin for letting me back in. My username and email has changed though,
I am now BrianL instead of Dragon1. So I will be continuing in this posting as BrianL from now on.
Thanks and Hi to all who have read this.
Brian
Question: Where is the rest of this picture located? Gen 2 OD relay, I've been looking but can't find it.

[martin manning]

I clipped a bit of the full layout posted in the first post in the thread https://ampgarage.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... 59#p140259 and replaced the original relay with the standard mini relay board.

[BrianL]

I see it now, thnx. Brian

[BrianL]

So on my hiatus from "The amp Garage" I have been trying to find and study all the different layouts and schematics for the #124 series of amps. I came up with this one and it intrigues me. Uses all the boards I'm already using, has all eight front knobs and all the back knobs and switches that I'm currently trying to use. The only thing I don't need on it is the foot switchable FET.
I will leave that as an input jack.

Anybody make one that works?
Thnx for looking, Brian
Here's the layout:

[jazzbass]

Hi Briant,

I was also intrigued by the project because it represented a middle ground between the Fender sound and the DUMBLE sound, in the subsequent DUMBLE projects you will hear a decisive step forward in the construction of the OD sound that we know at the expense unfortunately of the beautiful clean of the previous years.

Listening to the guitarist and singer Karl Ratzer had convinced me that this was the sound I wanted and I informed myself on Ampgarage which reports many discussions on 2nd gen and 3rd gen DUMBLE projects and listened to some Ratzer CDs.

I asked for help from the author of the project posted on TAG 2nd gen erwin_ve who sent me the chassis and the boards and I started to populate them. ATTENTION, you will find on TAG some layouts not exactly correct ... be careful.

I chose to use 4x 6V6 as final tubes and I am fully satisfied with the result.

P.S. don't give up on the FET, the potentiometer on the front was a suggestion that I adopted in subsequent constructions because, in my opinion, it is really functional.

Franco