A not so standard SSS002 build

[rootz]

Interesting! I can see the same behaviour on the scope and in sims. Those are usually very close and this amp is no exception.
Why it might distort a bit?
- J taper pots, so already a lot of signal when on 5;
- 12ax7 tubes through;
- a mistake! (But I don’t think there is one)

Sharp eye on the feedback resistor! The feedback resistor is 2k7 when using 4 ohm Twin Reverb iron. I used 8 ohm Vibrosonic iron. That means sqrt2 times the output voltage, so the feedback resistor should be sqrt2 times bigger. Which would be 3k9, but I only had 4k3 in hand in the right size Draloric.

[Aaron]

Very nice build, and bonus points for the purple cab!
Yes, #002 is built in a ODRS chassis, literally. You can actually see the model underneath the Steel String Singer label!

Aaron

[markusw]

Incredible build! Impressive.
I wonder how many hours it took you.

[rootz]

Very nice build, and bonus points for the purple cab!
Yes, #002 is built in a ODRS chassis, literally. You can actually see the model underneath the Steel String Singer label!

Aaron

Wow, I totally missed that. But now that you say. I see the overdrive reverb logo very clear in one picture where flash was used. But only in that one. Does even look like it says Overdrive Special?
Also clearly the Level pot was an addition. That pot is partly over the old logo.
If you’ve got more pictures, I’d love to see them. Good pics are scarce.

[rootz]

Incredible build! Impressive.
I wonder how many hours it took you.

Thanks! No idea how many hours it took me. But wiring everything up in the chassis maybe a long working day? It is in fact a very simple amp to wire, because almost everything is on PCB’s and that saves a lot of time!

[dorrisant]

Beautiful build, Bas!!

Tip of the hat to you!

[Max]

Yes, #002 is built in a ODRS chassis, literally. You can actually see the model underneath the Steel String Singer label!

And the serial number also appears to have been changed/restored at some point:

dumble-steel-string-singer #002.jpg

image source: http://www.overlandexpress.com/

[rccolgan]

wow fantastic build, @rootz! Welcome to the SSS #002 club!!

[DVMSounds]

This is an incredible looking build! Your attention to detail regarding part choices is impressive! I have a few questions regarding these part choices if you do not mind me asking.

1.) Could you please tell me what type of coax/shielded cable (Brand/Part #) you used for your coax runs (the bronze coax)? Do you have the details on the specs for the capacitance per foot and gauge/conductor material?
2.) Do you have a recommendation for brand/type of hookup wire that you chose for this build?
3.) What type of pilot light (brand/part #) did you use? They might have a 120V offering with the same size/dimensions that is available for North American voltage standards.

Based off this build and your other builds, it is obvious you have a lot of experience so I wanted to reach out to ask your opinion on these specific parts that you chose to use in this amplifier. Thank you.

[rootz]

This is an incredible looking build! Your attention to detail regarding part choices is impressive! I have a few questions regarding these part choices if you do not mind me asking.

1.) Could you please tell me what type of coax/shielded cable (Brand/Part #) you used for your coax runs (the bronze coax)? Do you have the details on the specs for the capacitance per foot and gauge/conductor material?
2.) Do you have a recommendation for brand/type of hookup wire that you chose for this build?
3.) What type of pilot light (brand/part #) did you use? They might have a 120V offering with the same size/dimensions that is available for North American voltage standards.

Based off this build and your other builds, it is obvious you have a lot of experience so I wanted to reach out to ask your opinion on these specific parts that you chose to use in this amplifier. Thank you.

Thanks!
1) RG316 a/u. Available at Mouser. Expensive but nicely made. Silver, rather thick core, doesn't melt, low capacitance. Ideally you get some (NOS) Columbia Flexfoam 1389. I bought some of that stuff 2 times on eBay, and two times the sellers chickened out. I would absolutely love to have some Flexfoam for some 2nd gen and SSS builds in the future.
2) Remington top coat wire. Looks a lot like the stuff I once had from Metro amps. I use the 1kV and 300V variants. The colours are somewhat disappointing. If someone has a better source of top coated wire, let me know!
3) Pilot light is a Bulgin 0277 IIRC. I'm certain they are available in 110V!

[DVMSounds]

Thanks!
1) RG316 a/u. Available at Mouser. Expensive but nicely made. Silver, rather thick core, doesn't melt, low capacitance. Ideally you get some (NOS) Columbia Flexfoam 1389. I bought some of that stuff 2 times on eBay, and two times the sellers chickened out. I would absolutely love to have some Flexfoam for some 2nd gen and SSS builds in the future.
2) Remington top coat wire. Looks a lot like the stuff I once had from Metro amps. I use the 1kV and 300V variants. The colours are somewhat disappointing. If someone has a better source of top coated wire, let me know!
3) Pilot light is a Bulgin 0277 IIRC. I'm certain they are available in 110V!

Thanks a lot for passing along this info and taking the time to answer my questions regarding some of your part choices. As we all know, there are so many options when it comes to different coax and hook up wire and their specific applications. I believe it is a good idea to ask fellow builders’ first hand experience to narrow down the field with proven and tested parts. If anyone has additional recommendations regarding coax and hook up wire to use in a loud bright/clean Steel String Singer type amplifier, please share. Again, thank you for your help and fantastic looking build!

[Hendrixianer]

Not sure what this compares to Guy. It’s an incredible amp. In the clip above I adjusted it to John Mayer settings (seen pics of the amp on stage).
Apart from making the PCB’s with those small vias and turrets, this was actually a very easy build. The grounding scheme of the reverb was surprising and required some extra attention. And I had the low filter backwards, so as a low cut filter.
Not a very clean amp; the dry signal mixer after the filter clips rather early. But is also gives that nice compression and some grit to the sound. I used a Vibrosonic output transformer as the customer wanted 8 ohm secondaries but also NOS Schumacher iron. I get around 85 clean unclipped Watts.

Phantastic build Rootz!

You say the amp is not very clean. My 002 clone is actually very clean all the way up and somewhat on the bright side. Did you scope the mixer clipping? And is the GNFB resistor on your amp a 4k3 resistor? Maybe I read that resistor value wrong in the picturw. AFAIK the original is 2k7?

Best Electron!

Yes,the SSS is a very clean Amp,there must be something wrong....

[rootz]

Did one small mod to the preamp that made all the difference. Changed the tail resistor on V1b from 100 ohm to 1k, just like in the Japanese schematic. It now is the cleanest amp I ever heard. I could say clean right up to max volume on the volume and master knobs. I tested the amp with deep on though en bright off. It's one of those settings that can be seen on pics of the original.

Speaking of originals: original '59 and '61 strat. What a combination that '59 forms with this amp, good lord.

[M Fowler]

Great build you have some skills.

Mark

[timrobertson100]

Did one small mod to the preamp that made all the difference. Changed the tail resistor on V1b from 100 ohm to 1k, just like in the Japanese schematic.

It’s a beautiful build rootz.

It’s curious the others using 100 ohm are clean (my 35W version is) but yours wasn’t. I was trying to find why it was assumed wrong on the Japanese schematic and only found this discussion. What made you focus on this area please? Thanks