ayan wrote:Crucial ones, after checking -- and correcting as needed -- many amps are: treble cap, V1B, V2A and V2B (which doesn't exist for HRMs).
Cheers,
Gil
Gil, I am familiar with the method to identify polarity of the foil. When you say that you "check and correct as necessary", is this something that you can do with the elements in the circuit or do you lift one end to test them?
ayan wrote:Crucial ones, after checking -- and correcting as needed -- many amps are: treble cap, V1B, V2A and V2B (which doesn't exist for HRMs).
Cheers,
Gil
Gil, I am familiar with the method to identify polarity of the foil. When you say that you "check and correct as necessary", is this something that you can do with the elements in the circuit or do you lift one end to test them?
Thanks,
George
You need to get the components off the board, check them and put them back on.
Ang3lus wrote:then i guess i will buy the 6PS ones from AES, if they are so crucial, i figured it would be nice to experiment though by changing stuff around.
I built amps with Xicon MPP and NTE Mylar as well, all good sounding, so I'm not even sure that 6PS are a must. However, people have consistently got good results with them.
Huh. My #102 clones kill with my Strat. I'll second Gil's recommendation on setup and settings. Don't be afraid of turning the bass down till it's almost off.
I've found that the smoother(less distorted) and better balanced the amp is the greater the chances are the amp will want to take off on you..
Regardless as to where the feedback comes from (instability inside the amp) it still has to be initially generated acoustically.. The mid heavy Skyliner stack IMO is better at promoting feedback than the scooped classic is...
Also the (higher gain) high plates could also be more prone to feedback as well, although I cannot prove this..YET!!..
Tony
Last edited by talbany on Fri Apr 19, 2013 12:40 am, edited 12 times in total.
" The psychics on my bench is the same as Dumble'"
aflynt wrote:Huh. My #102 clones kill with my Strat. I'll second Gil's recommendation on setup and settings. Don't be afraid of turning the bass down till it's almost off.
-Aaron
I@m happy for you, but mine doesn't. It's a terrific Strat too. I took it to the guitar shop and the guys who work there were floored by it with every amp it went through, but not with my 102, oh well.
rogb wrote:I@m happy for you, but mine doesn't. It's a terrific Strat too. I took it to the guitar shop and the guys who work there were floored by it with every amp it went through, but not with my 102, oh well.
Sorry to hear, man. It's amazing how all these amps wind up so different even while they're put together so similarly. The're all like siblings with different personalities. I have a feeling that if they all sounded the same they wouldn't be nearly as cool.
ayan wrote:
and the amp will not sound so much "distorted" as it will "sustainy."
This my holy grail.
Gil, thanks for that clip, as well as the info. I've been slowly and unenthusiastically gathering parts for my first Dumble-style build, probably because as mainly a Strat player, I've been concerned about the trouble people seem to have dialing in for a Strat.
How important is resistor selection? I have the Vishay-Dale RN65's, but haven't really thought about Dumble's other resistor selections. I have 6PS caps that I've gone through and marked for outer foil.
I'm with Gil and Aflynt regarding the above settings.....Running the bass control very low plus input volume at 2 o'clock (instead of 11 o'clock with humbuckers) is the recipe for strat. However, I still think the Classic tone stack is the route to go with strats.
Since I like to keep my Clones as close to the original specs as possible, I have made a few switchable mods on both my #102 and #183 amps. Which allows me to run them stock Skyliner for humbuckers. And towards Classic for strats:
Mod 1
- 100k slope with
- 22n (Blusier) or 47n (more scoped, more country) - I have settled on 32n bypassing the 10n mid with a 22n cap. The 150k slope is bypassed wtih a 270k resistor. (Corrected error 68k was wrong value. the correct is 270k)
I have put both on a switch, on the bottom of the chassis, close to the slope/mid cap - flipping the switch and running the Bass control low gives me Classic stack values.
Mod 2
If you want a little more beef, you can up the V1a and V1b cathode caps from 5uf to 10 or 22.
I also have that on a small switch under the chassis
Mod 3
Put the the LNFB on V1b on a switch. This gives you a compression option. I prefer LFNB with humbuckers, but the strat is better without LNFB. (I know #183 was 'born' without the LFNB, but I like to have the feature on a switch.)
The above mods are 'Players' mods and for builders who are comfortable tweaking the original designs a little bit. Having the above mods on hidden switches allows you to almost have best of both (strat vs Humbucker and Tele) worlds. IMO.
Last edited by bluesfendermanblues on Fri Apr 19, 2013 3:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
i was also thinking of putting the slope resistor on a pot and also the NFB resistor with a 4k7 in series with a 1M to give me positive feedback at max, and 4k7 nfb (stock) at min.
i was also thinking of putting the slope resistor on a pot and also the NFB resistor with a 4k7 in series with a 1M to give me positive feedback at max, and 4k7 nfb (stock) at min.
Be real careful with putting the slope resistor on a pot. The Slope resistor carries 200 volts DC and it'll be a very scratchy pot with pure dc on. You wont be able to use it with voltage on the amp. Much better to put it on a switch.
i have it on a pot in a SLO type amp, works fine, not scratchy at all actually, maybe at really high volumes, but haven't tried moving the volume more than 4
It's amazing how all these amps wind up so different even while they're put together so similarly. The're all like siblings with different personalities. I have a feeling that if they all sounded the same they wouldn't be nearly as cool.
