#102 Build started

[Ang3lus]

I"m ashamed to say it was a case of cone cry with 2 evm 12L, I tried a EVM10 and I get no artifacts and no issues, also amp sounds great.

guess this is done, only left is headcab to do

[aflynt]

I"m ashamed to say it was a case of cone cry with 2 evm 12L, I tried a EVM10 and I get no artifacts and no issues, also amp sounds great.

guess this is done, only left is headcab to do

I was thinking it might be the speakers. Are you sure it's cone cry and not voice coil rub? I've had EVs do that to me before. Maybe, as per the other thread, you need to rotate them?

-Aaron

[Ang3lus]

roate the entire cabinet ? or just the speaker inside the cabinet ?

it's a closed back, so it's a PITA to open.

[aflynt]

roate the entire cabinet ? or just the speaker inside the cabinet ?

it's a closed back, so it's a PITA to open.

I suppose you could just flip the cab upside down. If you read the other thread, people talk about it being a fix for the EVs cones going bad due to gravity pulling down on them. I haven't actually tried it myself. I've always just reconed them or sold them off when that happened.

-Aaron

[Ang3lus]

yeah, it's a real heavy speaker, damn good though, I like it the most out of almost any speaker i ever tried.

My dad is a speaker freak, he has 4x10 EVM10s and like 4x EVM12ls, also some V30s, G65s, Heritage speaker and some others i can't remember

[Ang3lus]

after many months of playing the amp almost daily (I teach guitar for almost 7 hours a day), I believe that the amp is way too bright.

I do know that I need to voice the clean channel first, because that's where the brightness is, turning treble knob to 0 does very little in lowering the brightness.

Any suggestions as to how I can lower the overall brightness?

a 10 band eq in the loop maybe ?

[groovtubin]

Thought so..
Here is my opinion on those P&O caps FWIW

The first ODS style amp I built (12 years ago) I used the Jensen P&O caps and found that they are a very smooth sounding cap but I found them to be a bit dark and lifeless especially on thoe top end..The amp also didn't want to sustain very well and the notes seemed to want to die off rather quickly and also had a kind of stiffness to it as well.. I eventually converted that amp over to the PS series caps and the amp regained it's sparkle as well as a more prominent mid range (more in the guitars range) ..The amp opened right up and the sustain/bloom came right back..P&0 caps are good for some things (PA applications/Tone caps for guitar) but not for guitar amps!!

This is of coarse just my opinion but I think worth mentioning since I have been down that road and didn't like it..

Good Luck with the build!!

Tony

The OD tonestack in this modded amp has Russian PIO caps!
Its not a dumble, but, u can hear the flavor fo sure! ALL other caps n i mean ALL were changed to Mallory 150 series..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGeMHFq_9JY

[norburybrook]

after many months of playing the amp almost daily (I teach guitar for almost 7 hours a day), I believe that the amp is way too bright.

I do know that I need to voice the clean channel first, because that's where the brightness is, turning treble knob to 0 does very little in lowering the brightness.

Any suggestions as to how I can lower the overall brightness?

a 10 band eq in the loop maybe ?

Hi, I've built a#102 recently you can see it in my build thread a few posts down from here and it is anything but bright. I'd say it was quite a neutral sounding amp actually. I generally have the bright switch on and it's not at all ice picky.

I'm playing through a dumble 1x12 cab with a celestion G12 80.


I used the traditional orange drop PS caps and carbon comp/metal resistors.


Marcus

[Ang3lus]

interesting. do you know what the HV is at ? 450v ? like in the schematic?

[norburybrook]

My voltages:

V1:

pin 1: 201 VDC
2: 0
3: 1.8 VDC
4 and 5 heaters 3.2 V AC
6: 195 VDC
7 : 0
8: 1.9
9: 3.2 Ac

V 2:

1: 207 VDC
2: 0
3: 1.8 VDC
4/5 heaters
6: 203 VDC
7: 0
8 1.9 v DC
9: heater


V 3:

1: 286 vDC
2: 39.8v DC
3: 61.5 vDC
4/5 heaters
6: 288vDC
7: 38vDC
8: 61.5 vDc
9; heater

V4:

pin 3; 462 VDC
pin 4; 453
pin 5; -48
pin 6; 452



V5:


pin 3; 452
pin 4; 451
pin 5; -47.8
pin 6; 450




Marcus