#102 "System" In a Box Build

[aflynt]

I just finished this up. It's a #102 circuit with full onboard Dlator, Digital Reverb, no-FET, and a simplified loop return-as-master setup. The cabinet is from Taylor at Amplified Nation. I used a Watts 20x8x2.5" blank project chassis. The faceplate and backplate are from BNP Lasers. I had a nameplate from them too, but was informed that it resembled something extremely uncool so I'm going to redo it.

It's still not burned in yet, so I can't really reserve final judgement on the sound yet, but so far so good. I played it on the job last night and everybody seemed to think it sounded great.

-Aaron

[alvarezh]

Great work work Aaron, immaculate!

I need to install a digital reverb into an amp (not a Dumble) and I have been rolling ideas in my mind but I can't get anything simple going. Could you be so kind as post some info on this.

What reverb circuit did you use? Did you take one off a pedal?

Are you using 9 volts and using 9 volt relays too?

How did you incorporate it into the circuit?

Hate to ask all these questions, but I am really hurting for ideas.

By the way, I am taking an image from you and using it as a fine example to show a new builder how to do a proper lead dress, hope you don't mine. Of course, I'll give your credit.

Thank you in advance.

[Colossal]

Stunning build!

How do you like the Forte cab Aaron? What speaker did you load it with?

[bluesfendermanblues]

Masterbuilder! Looks really good.

I'm also curios about how you have integrated the reverb into the loop.
Is it in parallel with the loop or after?

I've considered putting EH "Holy Grail", hardwired in spring mode into my amps, since I like that larger than spring reverb sound, better than most real springs. What reverb circuit did you use...the PCB looks like the buffercurcuit for a Belton reverb.

[Structo]

Nice job Aaron!

Remarkable skillz on the build!

[aflynt]

Thanks guys! This was a great deal of work for me and the culmination of several months of planning.

What reverb circuit did you use? Did you take one off a pedal?

Are you using 9 volts and using 9 volt relays too?

How did you incorporate it into the circuit?

It's a dual Belton BTDR-2 based reverb. It's pretty close to the mono Belton application circuit, but with an input buffer like the Hermida Reverb and two filter / module sections in parallel. I like it much better than the single version. Running two modules seems to smear away the delay taps a bit more.

I did use a 9V regulator and relays. The reverb is positioned in the buffer circuit immediately after the return.

I'm also curios about how you have integrated the reverb into the loop.
Is it in parallel with the loop or after?

I've considered putting EH "Holy Grail", hardwired in spring mode into my amps, since I like that larger than spring reverb sound, better than most real springs. What reverb circuit did you use...the PCB looks like the buffercurcuit for a Belton reverb.

It's in series with the signal. The mix control with the difference amp seems to work very well and I can't tell the difference between the mix down with the reverb on and the reverb bypassed at all.

Good call on the PCB. I actually created a version for the larger brick a while back and just used the same PCB outline for this one and changed the circuit around to incorporate two of the new smaller bricks and the beefier regulator. I like this better than the Holy Grail, but to each his / her own.

How do you like the Forte cab Aaron? What speaker did you load it with?

Thanks! I love the Forte. I've actually got two of them both currently loaded with Celestion Heritage G12-65s.

-Aaron

[ToneMerc]

Killer work Aaron as usual, looks similar in concept to what our forum members over at CE pedals are doing.

TM

[dcribbs1412]

Congrats on a fantastic build
The implementation of the belton reverb
has raised the bar.

Darin

[CHIP]

Your craftmanship is masterful! Great build.

[David Root]

Excellent job Aaron! Some new stuff I've not seen before, very interesting. Incidentally you use black board material, so do I, think it shows off the parts better. Is that why you use it?

I'm working on a 102 myself right now, not as sophisticated as yours, basically traditional, classic PS not precision, but with an internal buffered loop and a third relay for the mid boost. However I've gone NOS wherever I could that makes sense, so OT, caps and pots and resistors etc are '60s to 80s stuff. 20 ga solid wire too.

Will post it when it's done shortly.

[amplifiednation]

Aaron,
Wow! That is impressive. I think the complexity of your build actually just gave me a little anxiety. Haha, man the lead dress is spot on and that is very well thought out. I love the bias on the back of the amp...my probes never fit inside the cabinet, so that is great. Digi reverb us too cool, and the level for the loop is awesome. You have an all around great build. Looks like we nailed it on the cab design too. Great job.

How hard was it to get those faceplates spot on? You drilled the chassis yourself, right?

[cbass]

Wow I'm impressed.I could never do that.

[aflynt]

Thanks!

Looks like we nailed it on the cab design too. Great job.

How hard was it to get those faceplates spot on? You drilled the chassis yourself, right?

Thanks, Taylor! The cab worked out great! I love that early gen-look. The faceplates were perfect from BPN Lasers with the holes exactly where I positioned them on the computer. The holes I drilled in the chassis are another story, entirely. Huge PITA. I NEVER want to do that again. I'm still picking bits of aluminum out of the bottoms of my slippers. I eventually got everything to line up with a few hours worth of work with a small oval file. I thought I was pretty careful about drilling too, using a press and printing out a template on sticker paper but it was still a bit off in places. Everything looked pretty decent on the chassis once I was finally done with the exception of the IEC cutout, which isn't THAT bad, but definitely not perfect.

-Aaron

[amplifiednation]

Drilling chassis sucks the big one. Yeah man I do way too much in my slippers. Sometimes there's staples in the bottom of them, metal shavings are worse though!

I'm trying to never have to drill out a chassis again either. I don't mind a few holes. Next time, try using LPS gold as a cutting/drilling fluid. You don't really 'need it' for soft metals like aluminum but it lubes up the bit, cuts down on the shavings, and smells like an industrial machine shop - which I can't get enough of.

[martin manning]

When working with a faceplate I've had good success using a drill press and the faceplate itself to mark the chassis: Line up the edges of the faceplate carefully and transfer the hole locations to the chassis with a fine-point sharpie. Mark the centers with the help of a steel rule and drill 1/8-in pilot holes. Then change to a step-drill bit and enlarge the holes to size. Here's the trick: run the drill relatively slowly, and as you are enlarging each hole monitor it's location with respect to the circle made with the sharpie. If the center drifts you can bring it back by applying side-pressure to the chassis in the appropriate direction.