Help on new #40 build
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Help on new #40 build
Hi Guys,
I have finished wiring up an ODS (#40). Everrything is cramped because I am using a gutted Bassman 50.
My problem is:
1) passes bulb limiter switch on test with no tubes
2) does NOT pass limiter test when tubes are in. (bulb stays bright)
3) if i remove just the power tubes, then bulb goes back to dim and heater voltages are 6.35v and preamp tubes light up
Whats up? I have checked the wiring around the output tubes 100 times. All seems correct. bias v = -45v. B+ is 450v
I have finished wiring up an ODS (#40). Everrything is cramped because I am using a gutted Bassman 50.
My problem is:
1) passes bulb limiter switch on test with no tubes
2) does NOT pass limiter test when tubes are in. (bulb stays bright)
3) if i remove just the power tubes, then bulb goes back to dim and heater voltages are 6.35v and preamp tubes light up
Whats up? I have checked the wiring around the output tubes 100 times. All seems correct. bias v = -45v. B+ is 450v
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If it sounds good, it is good! Trust your ears
- JazzGuitarGimp
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Re: Help on new #40 build
With the output tubes removed, measure the DC voltage at pin 5 of the output tube sockets and adjust the bias pot for the most negative voltage at pin 5. That voltage should be at least -50V to -60V
Then, temporarily disconnect the negative feedback, and try the light bulb limiter with the power tubes installed.
Then, temporarily disconnect the negative feedback, and try the light bulb limiter with the power tubes installed.
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Re: Help on new #40 build
It looks like the NFB resistor and output grid leak resistors are not soldered?
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Re: Help on new #40 build
just tried that.
Bias = -50v
Feedback (going to the 820r) disconnected, but still the limiter stays bright
Bias = -50v
Feedback (going to the 820r) disconnected, but still the limiter stays bright
If it sounds good, it is good! Trust your ears
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Re: Help on new #40 build
just tried that.
Bias = -50v
Feedback (going to the 820r) disconnected, but still the limiter stays bright
Bias = -50v
Feedback (going to the 820r) disconnected, but still the limiter stays bright
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If it sounds good, it is good! Trust your ears
Re: Help on new #40 build
What is the wattage of your lightbulb? If the wattage of the bulb is too low, it might seem stay bright even though everything is ok.
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Re: Help on new #40 build
Sorry, Im a newbie!! Do you mean the 1k5w going to B+2 ??dinkotom wrote:It looks like the NFB resistor and output grid leak resistors are not soldered?
Also, was intructed by JGG to disconnect NFB and try
Andre
If it sounds good, it is good! Trust your ears
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Re: Help on new #40 build
Light bulb is a 40w.mhartman wrote:What is the wattage of your lightbulb? If the wattage of the bulb is too low, it might seem stay bright even though everything is ok.
The thing is... when the output tubes are removed, the light bulb dims the way it should. I also has fused the OT CT with a 250ma fuse and have blown nothing.
Andre
If it sounds good, it is good! Trust your ears
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Re: Help on new #40 build
It must have something to do with the output section.? Only happens with power tubes installed. Tried an old set of RCA 6L6 black plate and a NOB NOS set of 5881. Still the same
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- martin manning
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Re: Help on new #40 build
Could be just the additional 1.8A filament current from the power tubes causing the bulb to glow. How is the standby switch set, standby or play?
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Re: Help on new #40 build
I will check, but the stanby position does not effect the outcome I believe.martin manning wrote:Could be just the additional 1.8A filament current from the power tubes causing the bulb to glow. How is the standby switch set, standby or play?
BTW, how long does it take for the bulb to dim? With or without the preamp tubes, it is about 1 sec and settles into a dim glow. I might be being a little over cautious??? Will I damage anything if I leave it a bit longer and wait for the power tubes to warm up? I haven't tried a power up without the limiter AND power tubes in!
Andre
If it sounds good, it is good! Trust your ears
- martin manning
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Re: Help on new #40 build
Normal behavior with the standby switch in standby mode is the bulb will glow at about half brightness for a brief period (~1 sec) and then reduce in brightness. What you are seeing is the initial current surge from cold filaments and the charging of the reservoir caps.
When you switch out of standby into play mode you should see another quick pulse of a brighter glow and then perhaps a slight dimming, but most of the increased brightness should remain. The remainder of the power supply caps are changing, but the tubes will now be drawing current, which accounts for the increased glow.
When you switch out of standby into play mode you should see another quick pulse of a brighter glow and then perhaps a slight dimming, but most of the increased brightness should remain. The remainder of the power supply caps are changing, but the tubes will now be drawing current, which accounts for the increased glow.
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Re: Help on new #40 build
Martin,
I think yoou are right and I AM being over cautious!!!! Just cant afford to blow anything up!!!
After leaving the amp with limiter on, AND power tubes installed, NO SMOKE All heaters are glowing
However, the volltages (with bulb limiter) at the B+ = 196, then B2 - B5 are all 183v !!! Shouldn't they be dropping in increments?
I havent tried without bulb YET!
Andre
I think yoou are right and I AM being over cautious!!!! Just cant afford to blow anything up!!!
After leaving the amp with limiter on, AND power tubes installed, NO SMOKE All heaters are glowing
However, the volltages (with bulb limiter) at the B+ = 196, then B2 - B5 are all 183v !!! Shouldn't they be dropping in increments?
I havent tried without bulb YET!
Andre
If it sounds good, it is good! Trust your ears
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- Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2014 8:48 am
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Re: Help on new #40 build
Yes it powers up as you have just statedmartin manning wrote:Normal behavior with the standby switch in standby mode is the bulb will glow at about half brightness for a brief period (~1 sec) and then reduce in brightness. What you are seeing is the initial current surge from cold filaments and the charging of the reservoir caps.
When you switch out of standby into play mode you should see another quick pulse of a brighter glow and then perhaps a slight dimming, but most of the increased brightness should remain. The remainder of the power supply caps are changing, but the tubes will now be drawing current, which accounts for the increased glow.
If it sounds good, it is good! Trust your ears
Re: Help on new #40 build
I find that 40W bulbs glow too bright for larger amps (50W and 100W). While it isn't as safe, I typically use a 60W bulb in my limiter so I can tell the difference between normal current draw and s short.