Source for Tolex?

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Structo
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Re: Source for Tolex?

Post by Structo »

Andy Le Blanc wrote:The best thing I've stumbled upon so far is a spray application of adhesive
on the fabric backing. Thick on the cab, but controlled on the tolex.
With metal or plastic corners the time to cover is in minutes.
Cutting in corners simply takes practice, but a controlled spray is essential.
You wont melt the tolex as the driers flash off, or risk over application that
happens with a roller or a brush, and the time to apply is greatly reduced.
I haven't covered a cab yet but I have worked with different contact cements quite a bit.

The adhesive you use for tolexing seems to be the most critical item on the list.

I have read that the good old 3M 77 adhesive doesn't work all that great.
Which is strange because that is the stuff I have the most experience with.
Maybe it was another similar product.
The glue should be able to handle warm temperatures such as gigging or being stuck into a hot trunk of a car.

I used another product made by Performance Products Aerosol for installing a headliner in a car.
It seemed to bond very well and has survived one Summer so far.
It's a acetone based glue. But it didn't melt the foam backing on the headliner fabric so that was nice.

I wonder how the water based products work?
In my experience over the years, when products go from solvent based to water based there seems to be a learning curve in the formula because the first generation formula rarely works well.

I believe the early amp guys used Hide Glue. Which seems like a poor choice since I know heat can affect that.

Usually tolexing uses the dry contact type gluing where you apply the glue to both the cab and vinyl and let that get tacky or dry, then apply the vinyl to the cab and roll it flat as you go to avoid air bubbles.

The other variable is the thickness or stiffness of the material used.

Cheaply made thin vinyl can be melted by solvent based glue.

Very thick vinyl can be difficult or impossible to work with on the corners and radiuses.


Anybody ever use the VOX black type tolex?

I'm thinking I want to build a head cab down the road that will match my VOX 2x12 speaker cab.
Tom

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David Root
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VOX

Post by David Root »

The one everyone seems to be looking for these days is VOX diamond. I believe VOX is suing people that sell it so that might explain its scarcity. I don't get that, I would have thought it would have been in the public domain long ago.
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tolex

Post by amplifiednation »

I can cover any cabinets you want to send to Boston. Otherwise, I can sell you tolex as well, but my prices will be very similar to Mojo, unless you want a lot, then I can cut it down pretty cheap.

I will exchange tolex tips for amp build tips as well!!!
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tolex

Post by amplifiednation »

Oh, and Wilsonart H20 (water based) contact cement is the best glue I have found. You can buy it at home depot (underneath the laminates). It's used for kitchen counters so it is heat and water resistant. I have been using it for years and have never once had an issue with it sticking. Sometimes I'll spray some Super 77 spray adhesive on a corner or something that needs a little extra stick, but the H2O works great. AND it's water based so you can use it inside without worrying about the fumes, it cleans up really easy, and it's not too expensive.
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passfan
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Re: tolex

Post by passfan »

amplifiednation wrote:Oh, and Wilsonart H20 (water based) contact cement is the best glue I have found. You can buy it at home depot (underneath the laminates). It's used for kitchen counters so it is heat and water resistant. I have been using it for years and have never once had an issue with it sticking. Sometimes I'll spray some Super 77 spray adhesive on a corner or something that needs a little extra stick, but the H2O works great. AND it's water based so you can use it inside without worrying about the fumes, it cleans up really easy, and it's not too expensive.
Cool, thanks for the tip. I've tried regular contact cement but it allows the tolex to shrink off the corner cuts over time. I've been using the water based tolex glue from AES but it's expensive and I hate waiting.
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amplifiednation
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glue

Post by amplifiednation »

waiting for it to dry takes longer than actually applying the material. it sucks because it takes a bunch of space and you've gotta have like a good 2 hours to get anything done, but it's worth it in the end. that H2O has worked to apply a lot of different materials, it works really well with suede and tweed too
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Structo
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Re: Source for Tolex?

Post by Structo »

Do you let the H20 flash off dry before you apply the tolex?

Do you apply it to both the cab and tolex?

I'm looking for the right glue to use. I know the solvent based contact cement will work, but I would rather avoid the fumes.
Tom

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M Fowler
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Re: Source for Tolex?

Post by M Fowler »

Tom all good questions since I am very interested in try my own tolexing.

Mark
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martin manning
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Re: Source for Tolex?

Post by martin manning »

http://www.wilsonartadhesives.com/produ ... 0Sheet.pdf

...but I'm sure Taylor's practical experience would be very helpful.
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Re: glue

Post by Cliff Schecht »

amplifiednation wrote:waiting for it to dry takes longer than actually applying the material. it sucks because it takes a bunch of space and you've gotta have like a good 2 hours to get anything done, but it's worth it in the end. that H2O has worked to apply a lot of different materials, it works really well with suede and tweed too
Sorta off topic but the Gibson Maestro RVT you restored on your website looks AWESOME. Those are some hella cool amps!
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amplifiednation
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Re: Source for Tolex?

Post by amplifiednation »

Structo wrote:Do you let the H20 flash off dry before you apply the tolex?

Do you apply it to both the cab and tolex?

I'm looking for the right glue to use. I know the solvent based contact cement will work, but I would rather avoid the fumes.
Yeah I've tried other cement. This one is the best. There are no fumes. I literally do not need any ventilation and I can clean up with soap.

Apply to both tolex and cab, wait for it to completely dry and you have about a 2 hour window once dry to stick it together. You only get one shot at it though, once it touches and you apply pressure it is in place.

It takes a lot of practice to get the cuts right.
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Structo
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Re: Source for Tolex?

Post by Structo »

Thanks for the tips, a couple more questions if you don't mind.

What do you use to apply the glue?

Do you use any type of pressure roller to smooth out the tolex?
Tom

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Re: Source for Tolex?

Post by amplifiednation »

a paint brush.

i'd like to get a sprayer some time. i use my hands and never have bubbles!
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Re: Source for Tolex?

Post by amplifiednation »

Here's a dumble "gig head" that i did yesterday. the owner has the real deal ODS. he lives in the next town over. i couldn't believe it.
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Cliff Schecht
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Re: Source for Tolex?

Post by Cliff Schecht »

That's too cool! I really really want to invest in some woodworking tools to build my own cabs and start doing my own tolex. Sorta like the last piece in the puzzle that I've been missing for too long and I'm tired of gigging with tubes sticking out of a metal chassis!.
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