Chassis Layout

[JJH0906]

Hey group,

I've posted a chassis layout in the past and I think I've come to the conclusion I need something longer than what I had started to put together (17" to 20"). This will definitely make the layout more linear but it seems like not many off-the-shelf manufacturers (Hammond, Bud, etc) make chassis boxes in that length. A pre-punched kit chassis isn't really a viable option because, guess what? I'm not building a kit amp!

A number of folks suggested contacting a metal shop to see if they could build one for me and I have done that. If they come in at a decent price, I'll probably go that direction. However, as a backup, or yet another option, I did find a Hammond box that was 17"X10". So, I moved things around on that configuration and again looking for opinions on what I've got.

The idea is to group the sections and separate them from each other a bit and move some transformers around so they're place more in the section they're used in (power, reverb, output). I guess the question I have is if these seems like a decent way to approach this or if I've really gone off the ranch. It definitely seems more unconventional but I think if I route the AC wires on one side of the sections and the signal on the other side, make sure crossed signals are parallel, it might turn out OK! The component board will be mounted under the chassis in the blank area to the bottom left of the chassis.

Thoughts and comments are appreciated!

ChassisLayout_1710.jpg

[xtian]

Tubes are way too close to each other--it will be difficult to work in that tight space.

The physical placement of PT vs OT is very important to minimize hum at idle. See "headphone trick".

[ViperDoc]

I second the headphone trick, I learned it from Xtian. I recently made a headphone trick jack to make clipping easier, it works like a charm. One stereo Cliff jack, some spare wire and clips are all that is needed. Add your favorite pair of over-the-ear headphones and you're in business.



I used this trick on the 5F8A I'm building, and come to find out, the Mercury choke I picked up had a rotated coil, so the stock bolt pattern made for just an incredible amount of hum, it was the most I've heard. I spaced the iron apart and rotated the choke and was able to eliminate the hum altogether. Testing this first allows for much better planning, and the Super I used it on last is *dead silent*.