Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

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bepone
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by bepone »

strelok wrote: Wed May 22, 2024 2:33 am Its a shame you can't get 220uF in non polarized form in a non gigantic form factor as that would be the easiest way to deal with this problem lol. I
Now i see you are too young and green.. it is ashame that you dont know this :mrgreen: : 220uF is very easy to make, from 470uF + 470uF regular electrolytic, + poles jointed together and you have 235uF bipolar...

From other oscilograms.. it is difficult to interpret your oscilograms, without the schematic and explanation where did you conect and how did you measure..

40k sinusoide is not following the line AC signal and noise, it is clear sinusoide showing that you have oscillations from doing not correct wiring layout and lead dress, so you are on the wrong trace.

To me thread looks like uber-complicating on just basic things, i allready help a lot in previous topic - 14VAC 0.3A small transformer, form CRC filter and then to 7812. Cannot be cleaner heater supply. For cheap. And i highlihgted that is important only V1 heater.
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nworbetan
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by nworbetan »

strelok wrote: Wed May 22, 2024 2:33 am I did take some pics of the noise today:

IMG_5927.JPG
This is the filament waveform without any filtering. I forgot to take one of the line all by itself but they're practically identical. The line being obviously just scaled up from what you see here.
Okay, I went back to your first post and found where you mentioned a bridge rectifier. I had misread that as "the bridge rectifier in this amp being tested" and not "some other bridge rectifier in a different piece of equipment".

So on one hand it might be nice to over-engineer the amp to the point where it can handle whatever grody power happens to be coming out of the wall at whatever dive bar a person can get a gig at. That's a goal. Have you tested this amp on clean power? If it's also noisy with clean power going into it then you should address that first, imo, and then see what additional steps are needed for a bad power source.

On the other hand, are you located near any large industrial/commercial sites where they might be causing power line issues for you, or do you own any other pieces of equipment that you can unplug and see if the line voltage issues are even more local than that?
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nworbetan
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by nworbetan »

Sorry about the double post.

I mostly wanted to second what bepone said, for emphasis:
bepone wrote: Wed May 22, 2024 3:16 pm From other oscilograms.. it is difficult to interpret your oscilograms, without the schematic and explanation where did you conect and how did you measure..
I can see in your pics something that does look like it's probably amplitude modulation, but according to your pictures this AM is happening in the audio signal path and not in the power supply or on the line voltage as you originally indicated. So we're making progress helping you correctly identify the actual issue that needs to be solved.

But with limited understanding (limited by having never seen the schematic or the layout) of what your circuit actually is, it will be difficult to backseat troubleshoot why the circuit you intended to be a DC power supply is behaving more like a ~40kHz oscillator (or whatever the problem ends up being).

Also, can you post a picture of the line voltage with this dubious amp unplugged?

What does your "B+" look like?

More accurate details are likely to afford more accurate troubleshooting.
strelok
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by strelok »

Interesting. It would be revealing to see a second trace with the filament voltage, to be able to spot the relative positions of the peaks and valleys of the noise and the AC mains waveform. It seems like the noise magnitude envelopes are similar to full wave rectified sine(ish), but inverted, with the round ends nearest the zero volts line. This is kind of, maybe, consistent with the noise from a switching-type power factor corrector - I think. Just guessing, could be confirmation bias ( :D ) but it might be. If you have a single biggish transformer supplying AC mains voltage to several units, somebody on the same feed line could do this.
I quite curious to know the cause myself, will be investigating further once the grounding of the outlets is fixed.


Now i see you are too young and green.. it is ashame that you dont know this :mrgreen: : 220uF is very easy to make, from 470uF + 470uF regular electrolytic, + poles jointed together and you have 235uF bipolar...
No I'm actually aware of that trick. Its just not one I necessarily trust to be reliable. However, you reminded me that there are in fact non-polar electrolytics. I just forgot about them cause their use doesn't come up much in the work I normally do. But its important to be mindful of the ripple current. There's a 22uF from Mouser with a ripple current of 90mA. At 3.15VAC that gives a ripple current of 26mA so that would put the 10-20mH choke back on the table. They also aren't particularly long life and I don't know how they fail so I can't say I recommend anyone do this but I think I'll experiment with it.
40k sinusoide is not following the line AC signal and noise, it is clear sinusoide showing that you have oscillations from doing not correct wiring layout and lead dress, so you are on the wrong trace.
Sorry it absolutely isn't. I'm just gonna straight up say it. :D I spent idk how long screwing around thinking it was before realizing it was noise coming in through the filaments.
To me thread looks like uber-complicating on just basic things, i allready help a lot in previous topic - 14VAC 0.3A small transformer, form CRC filter and then to 7812. Cannot be cleaner heater supply. For cheap. And i highlihgted that is important only V1 heater.
The thread title has impractical in it for a reason. I never meant this to be a solution that people should necessarily try. I started this thread, and I should have made this more explicit in the beginning so apologies for that, to highlight a root cause of heater induced noise that probably a lot of people who build guitar amps casually might not be aware of. Other methods of solving the problem don't make the elimination of the CM noise explicitly obvious. So I just thought this would be a nice way to demonstrate that. Again I should've been more clear from the beginning.


Okay, I went back to your first post and found where you mentioned a bridge rectifier. I had misread that as "the bridge rectifier in this amp being tested" and not "some other bridge rectifier in a different piece of equipment".

So on one hand it might be nice to over-engineer the amp to the point where it can handle whatever grody power happens to be coming out of the wall at whatever dive bar a person can get a gig at. That's a goal. Have you tested this amp on clean power? If it's also noisy with clean power going into it then you should address that first, imo, and then see what additional steps are needed for a bad power source.

On the other hand, are you located near any large industrial/commercial sites where they might be causing power line issues for you, or do you own any other pieces of equipment that you can unplug and see if the line voltage issues are even more local than that?
Its becoming apparent clarity is not my strong suite. :lol: I should probably try it at home where the power is much nicer, I've just haven't felt like lugging it back, maybe I will do that soon.

Thats the odd thing, its a residential neighborhood so I wouldn't expect this sorta thing here. As stated above investigation of the source of the line noise to follow after the outlet grounds are fixed.
I can see in your pics something that does look like it's probably amplitude modulation, but according to your pictures this AM is happening in the audio signal path and not in the power supply or on the line voltage as you originally indicated. So we're making progress helping you correctly identify the actual issue that needs to be solved.

But with limited understanding (limited by having never seen the schematic or the layout) of what your circuit actually is, it will be difficult to backseat troubleshoot why the circuit you intended to be a DC power supply is behaving more like a ~40kHz oscillator (or whatever the problem ends up being).

Also, can you post a picture of the line voltage with this dubious amp unplugged?

What does your "B+" look like?

More accurate details are likely to afford more accurate troubleshooting.
I appreciate the help but trust me the root cause has been identified and the problem is basically solved. I'm just screwing around with impractical solutions because I find it interesting and documenting it in case someone might find it helpful. If you look at my last post you can see that the noise on the output of the second stage is around 600mV peak. After the caps are installed to ground on each of the filament lines the noise is reduced to roughly 100mV peak and is basically down to the noise floor of those two stages. You certainly can't hear anything other than tube hiss in the speaker with everything dimed.

I will indulge your curiosity however and say that the B+ is clean as that was one of the first things I checked. Since you and RG both requested more images I will try to get some tonight after work.
strelok
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by strelok »

Nworbetan, RG, I unfortunately ran out of time tonight and didn't have a chance to get the pictures I promised. I did however manage to fix the grounding and subsequently found the source of the noise. Turned out to be the fluorescent shop light hanging overhead. Explains why that noise was always present as its always on when there. I gotta think that there's something wrong with the ballast as its putting out several volts of that crap you saw in my previous pics onto the neutral line and the bulbs are relatively new. I know fluorescent lights have a reputation for causing noise in audio circuits, but I don't think I've ever heard of one being this bad.
R.G.
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by R.G. »

Aaaannnd we have a winner! Good find!
strelok
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by strelok »

I feel kinda stupid for not just thinking to check it from the get-go, just one of those things that's so ever-present you kinda just take it for granted. Anyways I think one of the biggest takeaways from all this is that heater elevation does basically nothing to prevent this sort of noise from getting into the signal path. You'd either have to filter in the common mode like I describe or do the more conventional and probably easier/better thing of forcing the common mode noise to be differential by using a DC supply and filtering it that way with the usual means.

I did find some time to take the requested pics tonight:
IMG_5944.JPG
Hot to ground (yellow trace) and neutral to ground (blue trace), with aforementioned florescent light powered on.
IMG_5946.JPG
Hot to ground (yellow trace) and neutral to ground (blue trace), with aforementioned florescent light powered off.
IMG_5948.JPG
Pins 4/5 of V1 (yellow trace) and output of second stage, controls dimed (blue trace), with light on.
IMG_5951.JPG
Pins 4/5 of V1 (yellow trace) and output of second stage, controls dimed (blue trace), with light off.
IMG_5952.JPG
Just in case there is still any doubt remaining. This is the spectrum of the noise from neutral to ground with the light on.
IMG_5954.JPG
And this is the spectrum of the noise on the output of the second stage, controls dimed.

I think I will order some components tonight for a filter, just to satisfy my curiosity if the common mode choke will actually help. That light is getting replaced so its now or never for this particular case. I need to order some other components anyways, want to install a bright switch etc.
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strelok
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by strelok »

Installed the 20mH CMC this weekend and took some pics of the results:
IMG_5956.JPG
Pin 4/5 of V1 on blue and output of second stage on yellow with all controls dimed. This was with the 20mH CMC and 22uF non-polarized caps to ground. Unfortunately I was tired and in a rush when I ordered them and wasn't paying attention to the size, I just bought what had the highest ripple current rating. They don't really fit all that well at 18mm in diameter. Fortunately some film caps proved to be sufficient:
IMG_5958.JPG
Pin 4/5 of V1 on blue and output of second stage on yellow with all controls dimed. This is now with some 0.68uF 100v MKT's to ground. Its not as good as the 22uF but the noise level is still far from what you'd call obtrusive while playing. So I called it good enough there. I could order some smaller non-polars but its not really worth the trouble, especially given that the light is now fixed. Besides the MKT's should basically never need to be replaced. Not a bad fix for around $5 in parts.
amp.JPG
Pic of the amp in its current form in case anyone was curious.
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trobbins
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by trobbins »

Did you power the heaters from a battery supply as an initial test item, to cross-check that the noise wasn't significantly ingressing by other pathways (such as B+ or ...).

For heater related ingress of noise into the audio path, the method of dc elevating the heater AC supply only affects one transmission path of noise through the heater - that being the resistive current path between heater and cathode. The other transmission path is due to the capacitance between heater and cathode, and that capacitance does not vary with heater elevation. Your disturbance noise was many kHz, which means the heater-to-cathode capacitance conducts magnitudes higher noise current than for the usual disturbance noise/signal down in the sub-kHz region that us mere mortals normally worry about.

Can you clarify the wiring near the input stage shown in the photo - in particular there is a green wire on the far right that seems to originate at a local star 0V set of terminals, but then can't be seen behind the rear panel - it also runs in parallel with your input signal wire from front panel socket to grid of ?/12AX7. That is obviously the most sensitive section of circuitry for noise to couple into, and an initial test item would have been to short pin 7 of the input stage valve to the nearest 0V node (which is a little removed as you aren't using a 9-pin socket with middle metal spigot for managing noise/hum).
strelok
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by strelok »

Did you power the heaters from a battery supply as an initial test item, to cross-check that the noise wasn't significantly ingressing by other pathways (such as B+ or ...).
No but the common mode filtering knocked out the noise so well and the B+ lines where very clean that I didn't feel it was necessary. Amp became extremely quiet, only things you can hear are the usual tube hiss. Further turning the light on and off made no difference in the noise levels.
For heater related ingress of noise into the audio path, the method of dc elevating the heater AC supply only affects one transmission path of noise through the heater - that being the resistive current path between heater and cathode. The other transmission path is due to the capacitance between heater and cathode, and that capacitance does not vary with heater elevation. Your disturbance noise was many kHz, which means the heater-to-cathode capacitance conducts magnitudes higher noise current than for the usual disturbance noise/signal down in the sub-kHz region that us mere mortals normally worry about.
That's sort of what I was alluding to in my prior post, but I should've been more explicit in case anyone else has a similar problem and reads this, so thanks for that addition.
Can you clarify the wiring near the input stage shown in the photo - in particular there is a green wire on the far right that seems to originate at a local star 0V set of terminals, but then can't be seen behind the rear panel - it also runs in parallel with your input signal wire from front panel socket to grid of ?/12AX7. That is obviously the most sensitive section of circuitry for noise to couple into, and an initial test item would have been to short pin 7 of the input stage valve to the nearest 0V node (which is a little removed as you aren't using a 9-pin socket with middle metal spigot for managing noise/hum).
Its just a ground for the first stage cathode. You can barely see the lugs of a terminal strip poking up above the chassis line where the RC for the cathode is mounted.
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trobbins
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by trobbins »

Its just a ground for the first stage cathode. You can barely see the lugs of a terminal strip poking up above the chassis line where the RC for the cathode is mounted.
Yes, but its not clear where that green wire goes to and if you have a single point chassis link somewhere, and how that relates to the protective earth coming in from the mains ac socket.

The interest in the battery powered heater relates to clarifying the ingress path - the root cause or causes - rather than a solution per se.

Did you inspect the flouro fitting and identify a wiring or part fault ? Was it an electronic flouro, or vintage choke and start bulb type ?
strelok
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Re: Common Mode Filtering - A slightly impractical approach to reducing heater induced noise

Post by strelok »

Oh sorry you mean the other end, that all gets grounded back at the input jack along with the rest of the preamp. PI and outputs have their own ground and the AC ground has its own. Its not the best grounding scheme ever but in this case it happens to be very quiet.

Yeah, I just don't happen to have a 6V battery sitting around. Through all the testing I did though it became quite obvious what the root cause was. Shutting the light off makes the noise go away. Noise exists in common mode on filament lines, filtering filament lines removes noise. Therefore noise must be getting in through filament lines. Is it as certain as a hooking up a battery? Maybe not, but good enough for a guitar amp. I'll save the hyper-vigilance for when I'm getting paid. :wink:

I pulled the ballast out and replaced the bulbs with some direct wire LED tubes. No more noise. Ballast is of the rapid start variety. Kinda curious to open it up if I ever get the time to see if I can identify the source of the noise.
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