Drilling FR4/G10 Garolite

[Tubetastic]

What tool and Drill bits do you use for Drilling FR4/G10 Garolite?

I've read some people have used Die-grinders for their speed. Alternatively I have read of people using a low speed tool.


Do you drill a Pilot hole, or just use a drill bit of the size of the needed hole? Thanks.

[M Fowler]

If I get prebuilt boards I use a very small hand held hex bit driver for the mounting holes. So my small drill bits are hex end.

For drilling for turrets or eyelets I use the 3/32 or correct size drill bit no pilot hole using a drill press and backer board.

Mark

[Sonny ReVerb]

I use a drill press with HSS bits. The bits I use are the Black & Decker ones with the pilot point which cut a nice clean hole without using a separate pilot bit. They're usually available from your local hardware store.

[Structo]

That would be a brad point bit right?

I used Hoffman's G10 board and his 1/8" eyelets.

I used a 1/8" bit.

[Tubetastic]

I use a drill press with HSS bits. The bits I use are the Black & Decker ones with the pilot point which cut a nice clean hole without using a separate pilot bit. They're usually available from your local hardware store.

Thanks for the replies, guys.

Sonny, how many Holes (approx) can you drill before the bit blunts. I've read carbide are longer lasting as HSS blunts. tbh, I am sure i have used this material before, and it wasn't pleasant - or maybe that was my Dremel Drill stand fighting me.

[jaysg]

1/16" can be punched. 1/8" and thicker, you need to drill.

[DonMoose]

Hoffman, who used to (still does?) manufacture boards of FR4 says 'Jobber' bits are just fine for this application ... though he probably assumes a drill press and a jig with a backer.

[Sonny ReVerb]

Sonny, how many Holes (approx) can you drill before the bit blunts. I've read carbide are longer lasting as HSS blunts. tbh, I am sure i have used this material before, and it wasn't pleasant - or maybe that was my Dremel Drill stand fighting me.

I use the Black & Decker Bullet Set.

They're not a brad point bit. The tip is called a pilot point. It's a smaller diameter, but it doesn't come to a sharp point like a brad point. You can see some examples in this pic:

[img:500:500]http://www.blackanddecker.com/ProductIm ... 220_P2.jpg[/img]

You can see the tip of the biggest bit pretty clearly and there's one on the left side of the label.

I use these bits all the time for general projects and I've drilled three turret boards with the one bit. They still cut fine as far as I can tell.

You know, now that you got me thinking, the smaller bits have a regular tip. I had to go check the actual bit. I use Hoffman's turrets and the 1/8" bit they require does have the pilot point. It's the smallest size that does.

These bits work great on aluminum chassis, as well. The pilot point keeps the bit from 'walking'.

Looks like DeWalt has them, too. You can find a set at Sears.

[Phil_S]

Make sure you don't breathe in the particles. They are really, really bad for your lungs, and they never leave once they are in you. IMO, this is a good reason for low speed work.

[skyboltone]

FR-4 will break out on the bottom of the hole without the backer board. You must move the backer board for each hole, otherwise you don't get the support to keep it from causing breakout. I've been using a cheap set of HSS bits and have noticed on adverse wear unless I am punching one of the high glass content boards. I like the brad point or pilot point bits but have not sprung for a set yet. It would be snazzy if there were forstner bits in that size range as they make the cleanest hole.

Good luck, it's not as bad as it seems. Don't get your nose down there near the drilling surface and definitely don't get your blade out, make up some lines and snort the dust. Probably won't do you a bit of good.

[Tavda3172]

Hi Guys,
If you are really into it try these: http://www.precisebits.com/products/car ... ?tsPT=wire
They are solid carbide and designed for CNC drilling of PCB substrates, but there is no reason why they won't work in your drill press. At $2.76 for a #42 (3/32") bit it's not a bad deal, the only downside is that there is a $50 minimum order . They really work well, as they should, since they are designed specifically for this task. If you can find a few friends who want to go in on some bits it is definitely recommended.
-Kevin

[Tubetastic]

It would be snazzy if there were forstner bits in that size range as they make the cleanest hole.

Now they make a clean cut.

[drhulsey]

Check out:
http://www.goldmine-elec.com/
They have #57-#69, boxes of 50, $45/box, if you're interested.
Lots on ebay.
These are quite easily broke with any lateral displacement.

[Structo]

Yeah, I've only made one eyelet board so far.

I just used a regular high speed 1/8" drill bit.

Then instead of making or buying a staking tool, I used a small ball peen hammer.
I used the round end and with just a couple smacks, it flared out and flattened the eyelet nicely.

[M Fowler]

I use what ever drill bits I have which are many different sets. I'm a hot rodder and Harley guy besides amps.

I just decided to buy some tools for making the turretboards but before that the hammer and rounded small punch works just fine. From now on I will use the drill press with a home made turret holder a store bought flare tool coming.

Mark