I used SS rectification and a 390R resistor from the two diodes to the first cap. Although I may just remove the resistor since the SE is class A only and there will be no sag at all.
I used a Hammond 13.5" X 5" X 2" chassis. I messed up on the board as the tubes are on the opposite side from the original 5F1. So I had to pull some components like the cathode bypass cap, and remount them. I left the PS caps as is.
If I were doing it over, I'd reverse all components on the board from the original layout.
It's the phase on the power tube filaments that matters since they are essentially humbucking when properly phased... since the preamps tube filaments aren't running in a push pull fashion, phase doesn't really matter there... that being said, I've always tried to wire them in phase anyway...
It's the phase on the power tube filaments that matters since they are essentially humbucking when properly phased... since the preamps tube filaments aren't running in a push pull fashion, phase doesn't really matter there... that being said, I've always tried to wire them in phase anyway...
So are you saying for a pair of push-pull power tubes the heater connections should be opposite, whereas for the pre-amp tubes it really doesnt matter?
... I also check the heater wiring at this point - yep, it’s important! Have you ever had an amp that hummed or buzzed, and everything ‘seemed’ correct? I’ve found early on that the heater wiring HAS TO BE ‘uniform’; one leg going to pin 7 on ALL the power tubes then on to pin 9 on ALL the preamp tubes. On the other leg, going to pin 2 of ALL the power tubes, and pins 4&5 on ALL the preamp tubes. THIS, I found, will help dramatically with hum and buzz in a Fender amp (since we’re talking about Fender amps here...
It's the phase on the power tube filaments that matters since they are essentially humbucking when properly phased... since the preamps tube filaments aren't running in a push pull fashion, phase doesn't really matter there... that being said, I've always tried to wire them in phase anyway...
So are you saying for a pair of push-pull power tubes the heater connections should be opposite, whereas for the pre-amp tubes it really doesnt matter?
I wire all my filaments the same... the preamps actually don't matter but on the power tubes wire pin 2 from one tube to pin 2 of the next and similarly on the wire for pin 7... otherwise hum can be injected into the circuit
So I had to pull some components like the cathode bypass cap, and remount them. I left the PS caps as is.