Gaz wrote:What he was very pissed about was the fake Cliff jacks, however.
I'll bet. Some of the fakes even say "CLIFF" on them.
Yes they do. These Chinese POS knock-offs were being sold by the major DIY suppliers and CLIFF was/is working to stop it completely. Unfortunately, the consumer buys them thinking they've got a real CLIFF UK, has problems and then the jacks get a bad rap.
Darn it! I have been suckered! I have a bunch of fakes, purchased from US based, supposedly "reputable" online vendors (the same ones I expect most folks here deal with). Worse, they are already installed in amps.
What a disappointment this is.
Anyone know of reliable US based source for REAL Cliff jacks?
Colossal wrote:
Firestorm wrote:
Gaz wrote:What he was very pissed about was the fake Cliff jacks, however.
I'll bet. Some of the fakes even say "CLIFF" on them.
Yes they do. These Chinese POS knock-offs were being sold by the major DIY suppliers and CLIFF was/is working to stop it completely. Unfortunately, the consumer buys them thinking they've got a real CLIFF UK, has problems and then the jacks get a bad rap.
Darn it! I have been suckered! I have a bunch of fakes, purchased from US based, supposedly "reputable" online vendors (the same ones I expect most folks here deal with). Worse, they are already installed in amps.
What a disappointment this is.
Anyone know of reliable US based source for REAL Cliff jacks?
Yeah, it sucks to be suckered! I think our companies should do more diligence to ensure that the products they represent and sell are not cheap knockoffs.
After some intermittentcy (sp?) problems with Switchcraft shorting jacks, especially in Send/Return jacks which need tight contact between the positive and shorting pins when not plugged in, last year I switched to the Mil-Spec C12AX, made in USA and has silver plated stud contacts on BOTH pins. No more problems.
Yes they cost twice as much but they are still cheaper than NOS '60s jacks, which are just as good in this respect.
Between "BS" ROHS specs and "CC" Chinese manufacture (Chinese Cheap) the standard Switchcraft are worthless in a pro level amp and I won't use 'em any more.
BTW I never managed to get any luck futzing with the pins to make better contact. Could NOT do it.
specifically that the switch is opening up, and letting a boatload of noise into the first tube stage when the amp is sitting there idle, minding its own business.
Anyone else seen this recently? I am no longer going to use them for inputs in my amps. Its sad, because I am the proud owner of a few dozen jacks.
I've had that problem with the 12A style since the early 90's
Folded sandpaper (800 grit) stuck between the normal close and pulled out usually fixes it. Also the ground sleeve comes loose sometimes, not crimped very well
Firestorm wrote:Anyone have experience with this type of Switchcraft jack?
I seem to have quite a few of these. They might even be the Mil. version.
I've used them in a few pedals for the slightly smaller envelope that they have as compared to the standard open type. They are open at the back (not sealed in any way), and seemed to work fine. I've not had any issues with the standard open ones either. (Probably shouldn't have said that...) The Mil Spec open jacks have silver contacts, I believe, and cost 2-3x as much.
I've also used the plastic square body jacks in pedals.
That was long enough ago that I don't doubt that the raw materials sourcing and manufacturing quality has deteriorated on those as well.
I pretty much always source Switchcraft brand thinking that's the best way to insure a bit of quality control, but apparently that thinking is in error (?)
In answer to the thread's question, I can't point to any specific problems, but I do have a few recent Fender rebuilds that use 12A's.
Fingers are crossed.
We are probably ready for a new jack design. When you think about it, using a flat piece of metal (on the jack) to maintain constant contact with a round piece of metal (the plug) in inherently flawed. I'm not talking about the switches but the actual signal connection. Except for the tradition of instruments, most every other connection in signal transfer has been replaced with mated parts -- usually with locking connectors too. sh
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Firestorm wrote:Anyone have experience with this type of Switchcraft jack?
I seem to have quite a few of these. They might even be the Mil. version.
I use those types in pedals also but they seem to hold up. Mammoth Electronics sells good ones. I once got a batch of Chinese knockoffs at a local electronics store though. You have to watch out on any type. Look at them closely and if you can see that the metal is bumpy, it is probably the cheap molded stuff instead of quality material. My one batch was so bad as soon as I barely tightened it on, the innards of the jack started spinning around.
Luthierwnc wrote:We are probably ready for a new jack design. When you think about it, using a flat piece of metal (on the jack) to maintain constant contact with a round piece of metal (the plug) in inherently flawed. I'm not talking about the switches but the actual signal connection. Except for the tradition of instruments, most every other connection in signal transfer has been replaced with mated parts -- usually with locking connectors too. sh
I'm not sure if it is the reason but my thinking on this is that they have retained the old phone jack (first used on the old switch boards at the telephone company, thus the name) because they pull out easily.
So if you happen to trip over the cord you won't pull the entire amp over.
Speaker connections have started using the newer Speak On connectors which is a locking type.
But you are right, it is a very small footprint on the connection to the tip of the plug.
