How to install metal corners
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- LarryLarry
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How to install metal corners
Ok, so I'm thinking of putting metal coners on my maple Bassman head cabinet and I'm not sure how to install them w/o doing damage to the wood. If it was particle board and tolex I'd just get them close and hammer them down.
These are the type that have a lip and 2 screw holes. I'm thinking of notching a corner of my work bench at 3/4" and using it as a corner 'anvil' to hammer the new corners into shape with a rubber mallet.
I'm hoping I don't have take a little of the wood of each corner to get them flush. If that's the case, I'll probably only put them on the bottom which is the way the Bassman heads are anyway.
As always, any advice is greatly appreciated. Especially if it's of the 'been there done that' type...
These are the type that have a lip and 2 screw holes. I'm thinking of notching a corner of my work bench at 3/4" and using it as a corner 'anvil' to hammer the new corners into shape with a rubber mallet.
I'm hoping I don't have take a little of the wood of each corner to get them flush. If that's the case, I'll probably only put them on the bottom which is the way the Bassman heads are anyway.
As always, any advice is greatly appreciated. Especially if it's of the 'been there done that' type...
Re: How to install metal corners
If they are the type that take the countersunk screw, don't do what you described. It works fine on softer woods, but with hardwood, it is a disaster--don't ask me how I know this! What I do on hardwood is to measure carefully and mark on the wood where the screws will go. Then I take a large drill bit and countersink the wood enough so that the corner will fit down nicely. Hardwood won't "mold" and "form" like softer woods will.
Re: How to install metal corners
I use a countersinking bit even on pine, ensures an easy and nice fit. These things are stamped like crap, at least the budget Mojo ones, and are each a bit different, test fit and shuffle them around and then mark them w/a sharpie inside so you know which goes where. Buy a few extra in case you get some really difficult torqued ones. On pine/Tolex you can go at them with a mallet but as you said you'll want to avoid this on the nice finished wood. Check the chrome in good light before you install, I've had very many bad ones that I had to replace. Maybe buy the more expensive real Fender ones for this project? Or maybe the ones w/o the need to countershink and no lip?Jana wrote:What I do on hardwood is to measure carefully and mark on the wood where the screws will go. Then I take a large drill bit and countersink the wood enough so that the corner will fit down nicely. Hardwood won't "mold" and "form" like softer woods will.
- LarryLarry
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Re: How to install metal corners
Thanks for the input guys, I'll have a go tonight...
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Re: How to install metal corners
Those corners are for 3/4" wood with 1/2" radius and they wont seat square and sit flush without the countersink drilled.
I dry fit them, mark the screw holes, then use a 7/16" countersink on the spots where I marked. Then when I install I use a mallet to form the corner perfectly and then the countersink points help to square the corners. This is after tolex though.
Wait are you trying to mount them on a slanted front??
I dry fit them, mark the screw holes, then use a 7/16" countersink on the spots where I marked. Then when I install I use a mallet to form the corner perfectly and then the countersink points help to square the corners. This is after tolex though.
Wait are you trying to mount them on a slanted front??
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Re: How to install metal corners
Yes, I installed the lipped metal corners on a Ceriatone head cab I got.
They are the two screw counter sunk.
I really had to hammer them into shape to get them to lay flat, otherwise there was big gaps.
Perhaps I got the wrong corners but the description did not say what thickness of wood they were to be used on.
So check the specs carefully.
This was on a tolexed cab so I wasn't too worried about hurting it by forcing the corners down.
On a finished wooden cab, I would be tempted to not put them on because one slip and you have ruined your cab.
They are the two screw counter sunk.
I really had to hammer them into shape to get them to lay flat, otherwise there was big gaps.
Perhaps I got the wrong corners but the description did not say what thickness of wood they were to be used on.
So check the specs carefully.
This was on a tolexed cab so I wasn't too worried about hurting it by forcing the corners down.
On a finished wooden cab, I would be tempted to not put them on because one slip and you have ruined your cab.
Tom
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- LarryLarry
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Re: How to install metal corners
Thus far, I have opted NOT to put them on for the very same reason Structo!
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Re: How to install metal corners
I build many cabs and I've made a handy jig for the countersunk corners given they won't sit flat until you remove some material for the countersunk location. I've attached a photo of my jig and how I marked the locations for the holes. I offset the holes about 1/32 of an inch to compensate for the metal thickness. I use it to drill the start of a hole for the screw and then remove the jig and drill deeper using a countersink bit to remove some tolex and just a bit of wood. Then I install and remove screws in the holes to get them threaded straight, apply the corner and get screws started before alternately tightening them. Really makes the corners nice and tight.
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Last edited by Iron Works on Thu Oct 24, 2019 4:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- martin manning
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Re: How to install metal corners
Nice solution, thanks for posting! Do you do anything to account for the metal thickness, or just let the offset insure that the screws pull the corners very tight?
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Re: How to install metal corners
Thanks Martin Manning. I edited my post to add details you suggest.
Re: How to install metal corners
Rubber mallet and pound them to shape.
Mark
Mark
Re: How to install metal corners
Nice jig.Iron Works wrote: ↑Tue Oct 22, 2019 10:27 pm I build many cabs and I've made a handy jig for the countersunk corners given they won't sit flat until you remove some material for the countersunk location. I've attached a photo of my jig and how I marked the locations for the holes.
He who dies with the most tubes... wins
Re: How to install metal corners
Iron Works,
So simple! Why didn't I...?
Craig B
So simple! Why didn't I...?
Craig B
Re: How to install metal corners
Just made the jig above, works great! I was struggling with these corners and this makes it so much easier.