Help with Dr Z airbrake clone

[garfo]

I've built the DR Z air-brake clone and I feel almost no difference on the first three positions.Either the rotary switch isn't working properly or this thing doesn't attenuate that much.
I'm using a modified Bugera V55 combo running on a Jensen 100W 8 ohm speaker.
I read that for more attenuation I would need to adjust the sliders...any idea on what direction?
Also, The lorlin switch, on the two center positions has has them as A and C.
I've connected A to amp jack and C to speaker jack.Is this the right way?

[Structo]

All I can say is, check your wiring,'

Many here have had good results with the Air Brake
design.

Hopefully someone with information will post in this thread.

[garfo]

So, I've tried some different connections that another member has sent me.
The thing is that I get the same results.Attenuation from step to step is very little.
I took the readings with my DMM.
The reading for position 1 is very weird, there is no attenuation compared to Position 0.

I connected one probe to input jack and another probe to output jack.
Position 0= 00.6 ohms
Position 1= 00.6 ohms
Position 2= 07.4 ohms
Position 3= 13.0 ohms
Position 4= 18.1 ohms
Bedroom Level at zero = 24.1 ohms
Bedroom Level full = 174 ohms

[Blindog]

Hey Garfo, I had some similar issues when I built mine. I had to get some fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand the wire on the power resistor where you are going to attach the clips. Others have had the same problem. You should see distinct ramp up of resistance on each click of the switch when measuring. Hope that helps!

Mark