Solder getting into a 9-pin socket?

[pjd3]

Damn, just putting in the last tube (PI) and its fighting me. As it turns out, there is a bright piece of something silver that is not allowing that tube pin to fully engage.
It looks like solder to me. It doesn't move at all when you attempt to manipulate it with a probe, solid.

Can solder leak down through a tube socket lug in to the tube pin side and create a block? maybe if flux migrates down and invites some solder?
Never would expect that - figured the micalex bracing the socket wouldn't leave any room for that.

I would have expected some form of debris to inadvertently fall or fly in there but, I would expect it to move a little when probed. It seems solid.

If you could advise a bit on this I'd sure appreciate it. Ever get "solder socket"?

Thanks,
Phil

PS - my son recommended (if its solder) to heat up the lug side of the socket, and try to put the tube in while its hot. It was a better idea than anything I had thought of. Ha, would we need to re-heat the lug to remove the tube - I tell ya, I prefer that to replacing the damn Belton 9-pin socket.!!

[pjd3]

I wonder with a very thin new drill bit and my dremel (and alot of care) if I could drill enough to seat the tube pin

Just a thought.

Best,
Phil

[martin manning]

Try turning it so the lug side of the socket is pointing down, and then heat the end of the lug. Solder will flow towards the heat, and gravity will help. You could also try using solder wick as you do this.

[boots]

I have had that happen. If you use too much solder, it will definitely run down into the hole. No amount of trying will ever clean it out satisfactorily, as far as I could see. The only solution for me was to replace the socket.

For a while after that incident, I always inserted a dead tube in the socket when soldering to prevent that problem. But I have found that if you are careful and don't use excessive solder, it isn't too likely to happen. Using a lot of extra flux might also encourage the solder to flow into places it shouldn't.

[ViperDoc]

That happened to me on a recent build and I eventually replaced the socket. I like Martin's idea of flipping the chassis, I don't think I did that. I was able to get some solder out with a wick, but couldn't get the tube to fully seat after all my attempts. I also switched to Belton and have been impressed by their build quality.

[sluckey]

If it's solder just heat the pin up til the solder melts. Leave the iron on the pin and use an air compressor to blow the solder out. Blow from the bottom.

[pjd3]

I just had some good luck, with a little help from my son.
With lug facing down, I heated it from the bottom while my son looked at the solder with a magnifier.
When he saw it melt but not move, I told him to try the solder sucker. So, while I continued to heat it up, he solder suckered it a few times.

Whallah. Socket is clean and tube is in. Thats kinda nice.

Now, its time to turn it on with the tubes in for the first time and blow the sucker right up. Will report findings.

Thank you all for your advice and comments. I could otherwise feel very, very alone with all of this!!!

Best,
Phil d

[JazzGuitarGimp]

Good to hear you got it sorted. I would have suggested you invert the whole thing; tube socket terminals facing up, solder sucker approaching from below. That way, gravity is working in your favor rather than against. One thing to watch for; if I’m not mistaken, dried flux is an insulator, so once the amp is up and working, grab that tube and wiggle it around a bit as you are passing signal through the amp; listen for static, pops, intermittent signal, etc.

[ChopSauce]

Thanks for the tips...
(& glad you had that sorted out)

When soldering "big pins" such as thoses of the Cliff jacks, which make the solder flow really quickly, I prefer to have the pins horizontal as much as possible.

[pjd3]

Hey thanks for all the appreciation.

The reason I first tried with pins down, is because I'm 62 years old and my eye sight kinda sucks. I figured I could at least handle heating up a socket lug from the bottom and give my kid some good position and light to see what was happening in the pin side of the socket. Luckily, the solder sucker had enough suck power to drag the molten piece of solder up and in.

What was funny is that the piece that got pulled up in to the sucker fell out into the adjacent pin of the same one we just cleared.
My son says, "Dad, I think we did the wrong one" Funny. The piece was just gently lying on the collar and dropped out when I tipped the chassis upside down.

It was a good day all and all and should you get an accidental solder fill, call me. I;ll fly my son out with my trusty solder sucker. You'll be good.

Thanks everyone,
Best,
Phil

[M Fowler]

I keep my burnt out preamp tubes and plug them in while I'm soldering new amps and haven't had a problem since!

Mark

[martin manning]

Compressed air (suggested above) would have been a good solution, I'd have tried blowing it in from the top side (look out for the hot lead!). The best way is to avoid the problem, using Mark's suggestion, or further to Boot's suggestion, be quick about making the joint, and don't feed any more solder than needed.

[ChopSauce]

I keep my burnt out preamp tubes and plug them in while I'm soldering new amps and haven't had a problem since!

Mark

I've read about that too, but don't you fear soldering the tube to the socket?

[pjd3]

And definitely.

Not creating a problem from the start. I allow myself situations where light isn't good and the chassis isn't in a very good position. I'm sure at times I have applied more solder than necessary. we'll be looking out for that next time around for tube socket soldering.

Didn't happen on my first Rob Robinette Blackvibe build so, I figured the sockets were fail safe. Apparently not. Yep, lots of lessons learned on the way with this build.

Thanks guys, (n" gals)

Phil