5e3 Turret Board (Insulator sheet) question

[Mojojtm]

Hey All

I have began recently a new project a 5E3 but I ended up with a little problem

The kit was shipped with Turret board but doesn't have an insulator board to place underneath.

If I put on the chassis a 0.5cm standoff which are the shortest I could find on the market the board turrets hit the jacks for the bright and normal, which may cause a short.

Now I never built a 5E3 before only 5F1 and a couples of 18 watts and there is no such issues.

If I only use an insulator the board basically should be installed on the chassis directly without standoff, right? I can't see any other solution to this issue. The insulator is very thin therefore the board basically is lay down flat on the chassis, is that the way it should be?

Can I use any rubber or pvc sheet avoiding to buy a board that includes the insular since I already have the turret board?

Thanks

[Phil_S]

If I put on the chassis a 0.5mm standoff which are the shortest I could find on the market the board turrets hit the jacks for the bright and normal, which may cause a short.

1) Why use 0.5mm standoff? I must be missing something. Use something longer. I suggest around 5-6mm. Then you don't need an insulator.
2) You can use nylon or plastic sleeves or bushings on a screw to give you a cheap standoff without needing to buy an insulator.

[Mojojtm]

let me try a much higher standoff but I am sorry for typo I meant .5 cm so I guess I must for for a 1,5cm because I already tested with .5 cm and 1 cm and still touches the jack

[Mojojtm]

If I put on the chassis a 0.5mm standoff which are the shortest I could find on the market the board turrets hit the jacks for the bright and normal, which may cause a short.

1) Why use 0.5mm standoff? I must be missing something. Use something longer. I suggest around 5-6mm. Then you don't need an insulator.
2) You can use nylon or plastic sleeves or bushings on a screw to give you a cheap standoff without needing to buy an insulator.

ok so the problem is the following

.5 cm standoff the jack touches the turret metal part. if I use 1cm or 1,5 cm is the same issue

With the predrilled holes basically the board stays too much on the side of the 4 jacks for the Bright 1 Bright 2 Normal channel 1 and 2.

So here to me either I use an insulator or alternative drilling new holes on the chassis to move the board more to the opposite side, this way the jack are away from the turret,

Probably you need to see a phot to get a better idea if you want I can send it.

[Phil_S]

Photos could help. I found this online. Is this the location where you are having the problem? Are you using Switchcraft type jacks? It looks to me like you can rotate the jacks to solve the problem, but this isn't the kit you have.

[Mojojtm]

Photos could help. I found this online. Is this the location where you are having the problem? Are you using Switchcraft type jacks? It looks to me like you can rotate the jacks to solve the problem, but this isn't the kit you have.

Yes that is the side I meant, true the jack can rotate, and I could rotate to a position that doesn't longer touches the turret board but I wanted to position the Switchcraft type jacks in a way to facilitate the connections, keeping the little long metal extension down.

I have just now resolved by drilling off new holes on the chassis and moved by .5 cm the board to the opposite site, this resolved. I wanted to avoid drilling the chassis but that seemed to me now the wised solution, thanks for all of your help and advise,

Cheers,

[Phil_S]

I wanted to position the Switchcraft type jacks in a way to facilitate the connections, keeping the little long metal extension down.

The jacks and plugs will work in any position. I would try that before drilling new holes. Good luck.

[martin manning]

I wanted to position the Switchcraft type jacks in a way to facilitate the connections, keeping the little long metal extension down.

The jacks and plugs will work in any position. I would try that before drilling new holes. Good luck.

Fender had a way of positioning the jacks to make the high-Low inputs easier to wire. Looks like the quickest way for the OP to solve the problem was to relocate the board: Drill a couple of small holes, and done. I question the wisdom of using turrets for any Tweed amp. There is very little room to spare.

[ViperDoc]

I recently discovered the same issue and solved it by relocating the offending turrets further away on the board. Just drill new holes and install turrets to fit your needs, like this: